Friday Harbor - Pitstops for Kids

San Juan Island with kids: a two-day itinerary

We love the San Juan Islands, situated north of Seattle at the very last reaches of Washington State. The San Juans are ideal to visit in summer and fall, but can make for a great (and affordable) winter or spring retreat as well. If you haven’t visited these islands and don’t know where to start, we recommend a two-day itinerary on San Juan Island with kids.

Base yourself in picturesque Friday Harbor, with lodging and dining just steps from the ferry landing. From here, you’ll be set for a day of exploration of this quaint town, followed by a wider tour of the island on your second day. Ready?

Day 1: Friday Harbor sights and history

From the outside, Friday Harbor looks like the perfect tourist town: pretty and filled with shops and dining picks. It is all that, but it’s also so much more. This town harbors (pun intended) a lot of history. After arriving on the ferry, grab a bite to eat, then walk into the heart of town. By all means, stop to poke around the art galleries and shops, but make your way up the hill as you go.

Whale Museum: You’ll encounter the Whale Museum on 1st Street (right up from Spring Street). This small yet very well-done museum is ideal for all ages. Its exhibits are playful and accessible for young kids, and each room offers deeper exploration for older kids. The emphasis of the Whale Museum is not on whale hunting, but rather on whale conservation. There’s a strong eco-friendly message. Best of all, the Whale Museum is open year-round, and affordable for families at only $3-$5 admission.

San Juan Historical Museum: This museum and historical complex is just a bit further up Spring Street, on the 1894 James King farmstead. The museum itself is open seasonally (summer hours), but the grounds remain open for families to visit. Each outdoor exhibit is well-marked, and include a historical shipwreck, an 1891 log cabin converted to a replica schoolhouse, and a county jail. The Museum of History and Industry within the San Juan Historical Museum has two wings currently open, and work is progressing on the Farming and Fishing sections.

Whale watching: We went with Spirit of Orca, and saw whales from two of the three pods in this region, J, K & L—the Southern Residents—and some transients that can be seen year round, as well as Steller sea lions, harbor seals, bald eagles, and more. Captain Ken was fantastic! Another option is to try to see orcas from the shore, or while on kayak tours. The orca whale population in the San Juan Islands is suffering, and it can be harder and harder to spot orcas on tours. It’s important to be respectful of the best standards of practice while whale watching in this area, which includes keeping all boats a required distance away. Always go with an operator following these practices.

By this time, the kids may be tired of walking and you all may be ready for some downtime. Head back to the pier where kids can check out the totem poles recently commissioned to display overlooking the bay, and watch the many boats coming and going. Families can book a whale watching tour, or take a ride in a historic ship.

For dinner, stay down by the water, and grab a bite at any one of the seafood restaurants. You really can’t go wrong!

Where to stay: Get our top picks!

Day 2: Roche Harbor and the Pig War

Any kid would be interested in learning about something called the Pig War, right? Start your day at Roche Harbor, a short drive from Friday Harbor. Here, families can check out the historic site where a lime and cement company once reigned, causing the population of this sleepy area to boom. On the way, stop at the sculpture garden for a nice walk.

Kayaking Roche Harbor: See the harbor and adjacent islands up close on a kayak tour with San Juan Outfitters. This company operates right off the pier (as well as at Friday Harbor) and offers 3-hour tours perfect for family outings. Our guide Alex kept us all entertained with interesting stories of kayaking adventure, and was able to point out marine life and nautical knowledge along the way. We made our way to giant bull kelp beds, where Alex showcased his talents as a bull kelp musician. (You had to be there!)

After kayaking, you’ll be hungry, so stop at the Lime Kiln Cafe for sandwiches. The lines can get long, which is how you know it’s worth it!

Exploring English Camp: After lunch, it’s time to learn about this Pig War business. Every San Juan Island school child knows the story: in short, the English and Americans co-occupied the island in the first half of the 19th century. In 1859, an English citizen killed an American’s pig, prompting a stand-off regarding who had control over the island. It was settled peacefully, which means this story has a happy ending. Families can visit both English Camp and American Camp (located at separate ends of the island). Our pick is English Camp, which is a national historic site. Hiking trails criss-cross the park, and families can make their way from the bluffs where the English officers built their homes to the bay, where a garrison still stands. Kids can see what herbs might have been grown in the gardens, and earn Junior Ranger badges (weekends only in the off-season).

Where to eat:

With the kids, you can’t go wrong along Front Street by the ferry terminal in Friday Harbor, because there’s always something to see. We loved our dining experience at Downriggers, which offers a very nice selection of cocktails, beer and wine and has deckside seating overlooking the ferry.

For a nice dinner out (perhaps without the kids, though they’re welcome), Duck Soup offers a rustic island ambiance with outstanding cocktails and entrees using foraged edibles and the freshest seafood. Be sure to try a white wine from San Juan Vineyards during your stay on the island, as well!

How to get here:

Getting to San Juan Island is half the fun! Families will most likely want to have their car, so a ferry ride on Washington State Ferries from Anacortes, Washington is the way to go. Should you not need a car, it’s possible to take the Victoria Clipper from Seattle or the Puget Sound Express from Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula, during the summer months.

Have you been to San Juan Island? What do you recommend?

Where to stay on San Juan Island with kids

If you read our post last week, you’re all set with your San Juan Island with kids itinerary! Now, where to stay on San Juan Island with kids: while it’s true that the San Juan Islands are known as a destination for B&Bs, other options do exist. Read on for our top lodging experiences on San Juan Island, with a wide range of options for your family.

Lakedale Resort: Kid-heaven on three lakes

If the kid-friendly factor is #1 in your book, but you don’t want to sacrifice quiet and tranquility while you enjoy island life, head to Lakedale. This island resort is located inland on a network of three small lakes, but is still only 4.5 miles from Friday Harbor. Entering Lakedale feels like entering summer camp: past the lodge and cabins is the general store, a crafts tent (usually with tie-dye t-shirts hanging to dry), and a swimming beach plus multiple docks with kayaks, canoes, paddle boats, and paddle-boards. Lodging includes log cabins, ‘glamping’ tent cabins, a retro Airstream, and a full campground. (There’s also a lodge with lodge rooms, but these are for guests 16 and up.) The Lakedale log cabins include kitchens and separate bedrooms, and their glamping tents include full beds, luxury linens, and even room for four (instead of the usual two per tent).

We stayed in a cabin, and had plenty of room for our family of five. With the full kitchen, we were able to make meals in-house (though a grocery run pre-arrival is important…the general store is limited). We loved the back porch with lovely shaded views of the woods and lake, plus the space to start our own campfire in our fire ring. We also had a BBQ and lots of space for the kids the play. Listening to the bird song in the trees on the back porch in the evenings couldn’t be beat, even by ocean views.

Kids have the run of the place at Lakedale; there’s a very comfortable, friendly atmosphere here. We rented paddle-boards for our kids, gave them ice cream money, and didn’t see them until dinner time. (Note: they were old enough to play unsupervised, but young kids do need an adult, of course.) The resort is located lakeside, but is also within easy drive of both Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor.

Location: 4313 Roche Harbor Road

Island Inn: Friday Harbor ‘city’ life

Want to stay in the heart of it all instead? Located in Friday Harbor, right across the street from the pier, Island Inn is self-described as ‘off the coast of ordinary’. This boutique-style hotel has a forward-thinking approach to room rental: singles and couples can reserve small, view-less ‘euros‘ (private rooms), which include access to a ‘view share’: communal room with windows looking out over the harbor, kitchenettes, and living space. These rooms are available for families, too, but kids must be 16 and up.

Families with younger kids can opt to reserve ‘sweets’ or ‘penthouses’, with up to nearly 1500 square feet. In all Island Inn lodging options, families can cook their own meals and relax in a home-like setting. Plus, those views? Are out of this world. Nightly rates range widely depending on season and room type, but in the off-season when we visited, they started under $200/night.

Location: directly on Front Street!

Roche Harbor Resort: Family-friendly, lively atmosphere

If you’re interested in all the amenities kids love, from an outdoor pool to lawn games and lots of space to play, but also want to be in the thick of things, you’ll want to head to Roche Harbor Resort. Many options exist for families here, ranging from a stay in the historic Hotel de Haro or historic cottages to village homes with 2-3 bedrooms. The lodging ranges drastically from new to old, but all are within easy walking distance (and view) of the harbor or bay.

Roche Harbor is a busy marina, with lots of kids to see and do, and several dining options. Families will need to have a car, however, to explore Friday Harbor and the rest of the island.

Location: Rueben Memorial Drive, Roche Harbor

Snug Harbor Resort: Graceful, gorgeous, and welcoming

Snug Harbor Resort is one of those rare losing options that manage to be all things to all people. At first glance, it appears this sleek all-cabin and suite resort nestled on the tucked-away cove of Mitchell Bay would be suited only for yoga enthusiasts, cyclists, or couples seeking peace and quiet. This is perfectly true, but with its communal fire pits, complimentary kayak and paddle-board rentals, and green spaces, it’s also ideal for families with kids.

The cabins themselves have been newly remodeled and are absolutely beautiful. I stepped inside ours and sighed with utter contentment. Each has wood accents throughout, a gas-powered stove for heat, ample windows facing the bay, and a full kitchen. Ours had two bedrooms plus a pull-out couch, perfect for our family. We kayaked, paddled, ate s’mores, and yes, I practiced yoga on my porch overlooking the Salish Sea in the morning.

There’s even a coffee shop on-site for your java-fix, and Roche Harbor is only about five minutes away by car, should you want an evening out.

Snug Harbor Resort is located at 1997 Mitchell Bay Rd.

The Kirk House: the place to book for a couples-only getaway

Located just a few blocks from the heart of Friday Harbor, The Kirk House is owned by Doug and Roxy Kasman, who are warm, welcoming, and as far from the ‘fussy’ B&B type as you can get. Their property is a beautiful bungalow with a comfortable sitting room with four bedrooms leading off of it. Each has their own bathroom. While family groups can reserve the whole house (Doug and Roxy live off-site), this lodging experience is best without the kids.

Each room at the Kirk House has its own character and own amenities. If booking just a few rooms (not the whole house) it’s recommended kids are 14 and up, as rooms are not baby-proofed, etc. Definitely call before booking to see which will be best for you. Some have tubs, others have large walk-in showers. All have wifi, and comfortable robes and heavenly beds. The neighborhood is quiet, even though the high school is across the street. The house features a lovely wraparound porch with rocking chairs, and some grass out front and gardens out back.

Breakfast is included at the Kirk House, and it was fabulous. We started with yogurt and fruit parfaits with local berries and homemade granola, which would have been enough to fill me up! We were then served a delicious upside-down apple cake (again, locally sourced) and a honey-baked ham. Coffee, tea, and juice are available, and throughout the day, little snacks and goodies are set out. Call for room rates, and consider visiting in the off-season, when rates are lower and town is quieter!

Location: 595 Park Street, Friday Harbor

Where do you stay on San Juan Island? Check out our related post on nearby Orcas Island!