Mount Rainier National Park two-day itinerary

On the right day, Mount Rainier National Park can rival the scenery beheld at National Park greats such as Glacier and Canada’s Banff or Jasper.

mount-rainier

Often hidden in cloud, the mountain framed by blue skies is nothing short of breathtaking, and on clear days, the views from the Paradise end of the park reach from Mt. St. Helens to Mt. Hood to Mt. Baker. The day we arrived, looking from volcano to volcano across the Pacific Northwest, we felt awe and respect standing along the famed Ring of Fire.

Mount Rainier National Park is large, but 97% of the park is dedicated wilderness, which means families can reasonably see the best day hikes and visitors centers in two full days, or one full day and two half-days. The order in which you tackle these attractions will depend on how you enter and exit the park. We entered from the north (Seattle) through the White River Entrance, and exited to the south via the Stevens Canyon Entrance. Our lodging was located on the south end, so we toured what we could on the north end (Sunrise) after we arrived, then concentrated on the south end (Paradise and Longmire) for the remainder of our trip.

mount-rainier-national-park

Mount Rainier two-day itinerary suggestions:

Day 1:

Arrival through White River:

white-river

We enjoy entering the park at White River, as this milky-white river gives a good introduction to the volcanic activity on Mount Rainier. The river gets its name from the chalky powder that rubs off granite higher up due to glacial activity. Stop for a picnic at any one of the White River turnouts along Mather Memorial Parkway toward the Sunrise Road turn-off.

Sunrise area hike:

If you’re staying in the Sunrise area, skip the Sunrise Road for now, and head south to sample some Ohanapecosh or Paradise hikes, which will enable you to concentrate on Sunrise on Day 2. However, if you’re staying on the Paradise side, as we did, take the time to detour to the Sunrise Road now, to avoid needing to backtrack tomorrow.

The Sunrise Visitors Center is a good one to hit up for Junior Ranger booklets. Afterward, head to the Sourdough Ridge Nature Trail, which is an easy one-mile loop starting near the Sunrise complex parking lot. You’ll get nice views of Rainier and interpretive signs educating on the flora and fauna. As an alternative, Silver Forest is a two mile out-and-back hike, which starts with informative exhibits en route then moves through an area once-damaged by forest fire. What still stands are the ‘silver sentinels’; long-dead but erect trees that are surprisingly beautiful.

If you want a longer hike, the Naches Peak loop is about five miles, and offers small lakes, views of Rainier, and plenty of subalpine forests. Plus, it takes hikers on a portion of the Pacific Crest Trail, which can be fun.

Ohanapecosh-area hike:

silver-falls-hike

As you drive through the park toward the south, plan to stop for a short hike at either Grove of the Patriarchs or Silver Falls, near the Ohanapecosh Campground. The Grove of the Patriarchs is best if you’re short on time or have very young kids; it’s an easy one mile walk to see old-growth forest along the Ohanapecosh River.

For a longer and more satisfying hike, go into the Ohanapecosh Campground to the day-use/trailhead parking. Take the Silver Falls loop hike, which is about three miles. At the very start, you’ll be rewarded with hot springs activity. Feel the water temperature of the various springs as you go…they get progressively warmer as you get closer to the source of the hot springs. Be sure to detour onto the hot springs loop trail about a quarter mile into the Silver Falls loop, just to the bigger pool that’s jacuzzi-hot. Continue along the Silver Falls trail to the thundering falls along Ohanapecosh River; it’s absolutely worth the mileage! The loop will deposit you back at the campground.

silver-falls

Day 2:

Paradise Visitors Center:

For the Paradise portion of your visit, start early, as the Sunrise parking lots fill up fast in summer. (See below for best time of year to visit.) The Visitors Center offers a nice area of exhibits upstairs, and a 20 minute video that plays several times per hour. We always recommend watching videos to introduce visitors to new parks.

Skyline Trail hike:

skyline-hike-mount-rainier

Right outside the Visitors Center, a network of trails are on offer. The Skyline Trail is one of the most popular hikes in the park, and while we usually shy away from potentially crowded areas, this one is worth it. This loop is over five miles, and takes hikers up in elevation from the Paradise parking lots seemingly to the edge of Mount Rainier itself. The first two miles are steep, but the continuous views of Rainier make this workout less painful, and the crowds drop away the further you go. There are a number of turn-around options in these first few miles; hikers could detour onto the Dead Horse or Alta Vista Trail, and return to Paradise. Everything is well-marked, and rangers are often on-hand at junctions to explain options. Note: the beginning and end of this loop are paved trail, to accommodate shorter hikes for all visitors.

For those wanting to go the distance (recommended if possible), continue up Skyline to Panorama Point, where you can opt between the Low Skyline Trail or High Skyline Trail. Either will continue your loop, but in early season, only Low Skyline is open. When we hiked in June, Low Skyline offered lots of snow across the Nisqually Glacier, which the kids loved. Cramp-ons are not necessary for the Low Skyline Trail, but be prepared to walk through snow (trekking poles are useful).

marmots-mount-rainier

The Low and High Skyline trails merge again to start the long descent back toward Paradise, with an option to cut 1.5 miles off your loop by taking the more direct Golden Gate Trail down to Myrtle Falls, then the lodge area. We opted to stay on the Skyline loop, and were not sorry. The views continue to be spectacular, with creek crossings and wildflowers in the early season. At Myrtle Falls, the trail becomes crowded with visitors for the final few tenths of a mile. Look for marmots along the entire hike: we saw 4-5!

Rampart Ridge Trail Hike:

If you have time to venture further from Paradise to the Longmire section of the park, or if Skyline is simply too crowded on the day you’re visiting,  the Rampart Ridge Trail is a good alternative. This trail is often hiked in summer by the many visitors who do not receive Wonderland Trail permits, and in early season or fall, it’s blissfully empty. The 4.6 mile loop begins at the Trail of the Shadows trailhead, and takes hikers through both wetlands and old-growth forest. The climbs along the loop start out quite gentle, then progress to a series of switchbacks. The reward: views of the valley below and Tumtum Peak. Further along the trail, the views continue, offering sweeping vistas of Longmire and Eagle Peak. When families reach the junction with the Wonderland Trail, a steep descent returns them to Longmire.

Best time to go:

The best time to visit Mount Rainier National Park is mid-June, early July, or September. While coming in June is a gamble (not everything will be open yet, depending on snow pack), it’s far less crowded. Mid-July through August are peak season. Come in fall, and the park will be yours alone!

Where to stay:

Campgrounds:

The campground facilities in the park are fantastic. We really liked the relative isolation and quiet of Ohanapecosh Campground, which is set apart from any visitors centers. The White River Campground is one of the most popular, but with the river nearby, we understand why. Check the national park site for campground information, including which can be reserved ahead of time.

mount-rainier-with-kids

Paradise Lodge:

This national park lodge is beautiful, but located in the thick of things. You’ll get pristine views of Rainier, and have immediate access to some of the best trails (no parking worries!) but also be staying in the midst of the crowds.

Packwood area:

We opted to stay three miles outside the Stevens Canyon park entrance, in the Timberline community of seasonal cabins outside of the town of Packwood. We rented our cabin via VRBO, and were cozy in a retro cabin sleeping six. Renting in the Timberline community, we had access to a community outdoor pool and tennis courts, and enjoyed a nice deck and mountain views, plus a full kitchen for cooking our own meals. There are a few dining options in Packwood (we tried the Blue Spruce Cafe, which served traditional pub food like burgers, fish and chips, and pizza), but you’ll want to do some grocery shopping. Note: AT&T customers will have no cell service in this area.

Have you visited Mount Rainier? Where did you hike and stay?

Hiking in Tofino BC: Visiting Meares Island with Remote Passages

For families looking for a budget-friendly Tofino excursion or are simply low on time, Remote Passages offers a 1.5 hour round-trip Vancouver Island hiking adventure of Big Tree Trail on nearby Meares Island.

Remote Passages

Hiking in Tofino:

Located just a few fun Zodiac boat turns from the Remote Passages boat dock, Meares Island is uninhabited and protected by a local First Nations land conservation agency. Remote Passages (and several other local outfits, including Tofino Water Taxi) will drop passengers off at the start of a 400 meter (approximately 1/4 mile) boardwalk, which families follow self-guided as it winds deep into the temperate rain forest.

remote passages

The boardwalk is old in some places (originally built in the ’80s and quite weather-beaten), new in others (you can smell the fresh cedar), so kids shouldn’t run. We saw one visitor put his foot straight through a rotted plank. We met several of the First Nations Meares Island protectors while we hiked; they were working on upgrades to the boardwalk, and were very eager to tell us about their work preserving this island. The way can be slippery at times, unstable in others, and always majestically beautiful. For young kids, it truly feels like an adventure, and older kids will enjoy the constant challenge of the walk.

As you go, you’re looking for several points of interest. Near the start of the boardwalk stands a 900-year-old red cedar, and farther along, a small creek crossing leads to a set of stairs and a small lookout over a narrow bay. Look for kayakers coming in to hike the island here. A little farther on, you arrive at the end of the trail, which features the oldest cedar: 1600 years old. It’s called the Hanging Garden, and it’s easy to see why: trees are shooting out of this tree, and dropping from nearly all branches are ferns and other beautiful hanging plants. The sunlight filters through, and it’s truly a awe-inspiring sight.

hanging garden tree

Remote Passages gives visitors 1.5 hours to tour the island, which may be a bit long, since the boardwalk really only takes 45 minutes to tour, and visitors are asked not to explore off the walk (in order to preserve vegetation). Our kids enjoyed navigating part of the boardwalk a second time while we waited, or you could find a spot in the sun (or under the canopy of trees out of the rain, as they case may be) by the docking area.

meares island

Tip: Be sure to pack all trash out, and don’t allow children to climb on the trunks of the trees; they’re working hard to protect them. Bring rain gear or light jackets, but this is a great activity for when the weather is rainy; the canopy will shield you! The boat ride to and from is only 5 minutes, but will be a thrill for young kids if they haven’t experienced the small and fast Zodiac boat yet.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the interstate:

Right off Highway 4 in Tofino.

Rates:

The Meares Island transfer is a quite affordable way to have a fun boat ride and great hike you can’t access otherwise. At the time of my visit, rates were $20 per person for the drop-off/pick-up for kids and adults. If you’re more ambitious, Remote Passages offers a half-day kayaking tour that includes a guided walk through Meares Island. Kids don’t have to be strong paddlers, but should be old enough to spend the whole morning or afternoon on the water.

Directions:

Find Remote Passages at the bottom of Wharf Street at Meares Landing, right in the heart of Tofino.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my family and I experienced Meares Island at no charge, for the purpose of review. While I appreciate this opportunity to pass on information to my readers, it came with no expectation of a positive review.

Tofino on Dwellable

A Pit Stop a Day (Day 18): Zion National Park’s The Narrows

Nate navigates the ‘Narrows’!

On Day 18, we woke up in Cliffrose Lodge and Gardens with a full day of exploring in Zion National Park ahead of us. Our primary destination was Zion’s ‘Narrows’, a hike up the Virgin River deep into the canyon. (Zion has many great hikes for families.)

We walked the few yards from Cliffrose to the park entrance and visitor’s center, where we paid our $25 park entrance fee (good for seven days) and picked up maps, junior ranger booklets, etc. We then took Zion’s mandatory shuttle (we wish all national parks would adapt this policy!) to its last stop, The Temple of Sinawava.

From there, we hiked the short Riverside Walk (paved and fairly even terrain) to the start of the ‘Narrows’. At this location, the trail simply ends and you continue up the canyon by wading through the river. It’s slow going, but tons of fun. The kids loved this style of ‘hiking’ because they had to pick and choose their own route up the river, and every step was an adventure. You can continue as far as you’d like (up to a boundary at the 2 hour mark; if you wish to continue further, you need to register for an overnight permit). Nate, Calvin, and I hiked about 30 minutes up the river, and in many places the water went up past our waist! The current was not fast, but it was present in many places.

Calvin about 1/2 mile into the ‘Narrows’.

Riverwalk Trail which leads to the entrance to the ‘Narrows’. (Suitable for all ages.)

Toby (age 5) only ventured about 10 minutes up the river before finding a nice place to stop and play in the banks with grandma and grandpa. What went to our waists went over his head, and he would be essentially swimming if he went further! Needless to say, visitors need to be very careful with young children, especially if they aren’t strong swimmers.

The water wasn’t warm by any means, but given the high temperatures in Zion, we quickly got used to it and enjoyed it. In many places, the canyon walls ‘narrow’, which doesn’t allow for any bank of the river, during which times you’re completely confined to the water. The national park closes the ‘Narrows’ when there’s threat of flash floods (storm clouds or rain), so be prepared for closures, especially in August.

Toby talks about his experience on the Pit Stops for Kids Cam:

Note: You can rent river hiking gear in Springdale (water shoes meant for hiking the Narrows and walking sticks). We opted to use decent hiking shoes (just resign yourself to getting them wet!) and extra socks in our pack. Sandals with good traction (think Keen or Teva) would work, too. If we had planned to hike any further than about 1 hour into the Narrows, we would have rented specialized equipment.

Extra Tip: If you’re visiting when the river is high (spring through July), go ahead and wear swimsuits/wading clothes. We were in shorts and t-shirts, and while we certainly didn’t get cold, it would have been simpler to be in swimsuits!

Date last visited: July 2010.

Distance off the interstate: About 30 minutes from I-15 off Hwy 9.

Bathrooms: Pit toilets are located at the shuttle stop before you start the hike.

Food Services: None. Pack food in or plan to stop for lunch at the Zion Lodge, located within the park (on a shuttle stop).

Directions: From the park entrance, take the shuttle to the last stop (The Temple of Sinawava) and take the Riverwalk trail.

Up Next: More hiking opportunities in Zion, including one not suitable for young kids!