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Family guide to Deadwood, South Dakota

June 29, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

We love wild west towns, especially those that are more historical than touristy. While Deadwood, South Dakota is decidedly both, there’s much to appreciate about this historic town booming in western history.

A little background: Deadwood is most famous as the home of Wild Bill Hickok and sheriff Seth Bullock (made even more famous by the HBO series Deadwood). Gold was discovered in the Black Hills at this site in 1875, and in the subsequent boom, Deadwood became one of the most notorious wild west towns. Families can visit the saloon where Bill Hickok was shot to death, visit the graves of Hickok, Calamity Jane, and Bullock, visit museums, and see reenactments.

Note: because the entire town is on the national register of historic places and its rich history in gambling and gaming, Deadwood is still a gaming town. Casinos are present throughout the town. This surprised me, but even though I dislike gaming, it didn’t interfere with my experience too much.

Activities and historical sites:

Reenactments on street: Depending on the time of year, reenactments of shootouts are regularly occurrences on Deadwood’s main street, with characters in period garb. Crowds gather, and the scene only takes about 10 minutes to perform. Catch at least one showing during your visit.

Saloon 10: Yes, it’s a saloon, but until 8 pm each night, it’s kid-friendly. Stop in to see the chair where supposedly Wild Bill Hickok was sitting when shot to death by Jack McCall. Sometimes, reenactments of McCall’s trial are held in the saloon as well. Kids will like the sawdust floor and fun setting with a true wild west bar, and the menu is quite good. Wonderful historic photos line the walls of the saloon, and of course, there’s a small gift shop.

Days of 76 Museum: This museum is located just outside downtown at #18 Seventy-Six Drive. It’s massive, so allow a few hours to explore the exhibits of covered wagons, coaches, carriages, firearms, and native american artifacts. Admission is very affordable at $5.50 for adults and $2.50 for kids.

Historic Adams House and Museum: This historic home and museum at 22 Van Buren near downtown offers house tours and scavenger hunts for kids. It’s fun for everyone to see the inside of Victorian life in Deadwood.

Mt. Mariah Cemetery: There is an admission charge for this cemetery of a few dollars, but it’s well worth it to see graves of Calamity Jane, Wild Bill Hickok, and Potato Creek Johnny. On a walkway further up, you can also see Seth Bullock’s grave. It’s also worth walking along the other grave sites, to note the deep history in the area and a glimpse at the hardships of pioneering life.

If you need more ideas, stop by the History and Information Center one block south of Historic Main Street and pick up a walking tour guidebook. 17 stops are described in detail, marked by plaques, and the brochure does a good job walking families through the sites and history.

Note: the historic ghost tour advertised in Deadwood is very entertaining and interesting, but it is NOT for children, due to graphic details about the town’s history of prostitution (which, interestingly enough, was banned as late as the 1980s.

Hiking:

There are a few great area hikes in the Black Hills right outside Deadwood. Our favorites, due to accessibility:

Mt. Roosevelt to Friendship Tower: Seth Bullock was actually a friend of President Teddy Roosevelt, serving in his Rough Riders. Upon Roosevelt’s death, Bullock built the Friendship Tower to commemorate him. The hike up Mt. Roosevelt is short and easy, and ends at the tower, which you can climb up. The views are great! Find the trailhead on Forest Service Road 133. Take US Highway 85 north out of Deadwood a few miles to the turnoff.

Little Spearfish and Rimrock Trails: Located adjacent to Deadwood in the Spearfish area (near Lead), these trails offer a nice overview of the Black Hills. The Spearfish trail is a six mile loop that’s easy to moderate, and the Rimrock Trail is 4.7 mile, but a bit harder. From Spearfish, take Highway 14A to Savoy, then travel west on Forest Service Road 222 for almost five miles to the trailhead. Biking is allowed.

Biking:

Deadwood is home to the Mickelson Trail, a fantastic rail trail that runs through the Black Hills over 100 miles. It’s easy to access right in town, and bike rentals are available at the Pump House at Mind Blown Studio (which is a great place to visit for lunch and to watch glass blowing, too!). Bike long distance to the town of Rockford, then Hill City if you’re very ambitious, or do what we did, and pedal about five miles out and back for a nice ride. As an alternative, it’s very easy to ride from one side of town to the other in just a few miles, and the entire path through Deadwood is well lighted at night.

How to get around:

Parking is available on the street and in public lots, but in summer, it gets very busy. We recommend taking the town trolley, which is only $1 per ride.

Where to stay:

We stayed at Deadwood Gulch Resort, which is located on the far end of town right on Whitewood Creek. This location is quieter, and still easily accessible to downtown via the trolley. Rooms were simple but clean, and while there’s gaming in the lobby, which I dislike, gaming is unavoidable in this town.

After visiting Deadwood, head to Custer to explore all the offerings in addition to Mt. Rushmore, and to Custer State Park!

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Flickr/AaronVowels

Museums and historical travel in Eastern Tennessee

December 1, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

From the Manhattan Project to coal mining and civil rights, Eastern Tennessee offers diverse and rich history lessons for families visiting the region. If you came with your family to visit Great Smoky Mountains National Park or Knoxville, stay an extra few days to explore the history of the area.

Historical travel in Eastern Tennessee:

Museum of Appalachia:

This living history museum and farm is located near Oak Ridge in the town of Clinton, Tennessee, and is absolutely fantastic. It was created by local resident John Rice Irwin in 1969, with just one re-located Appalachian cabin and some artifacts. Now, it has dozens of buildings to tour, animals to see, and a wonderful ‘Hall of Fame’ museum, which houses historical exhibits, antiques, and artifacts from the area. Most exhibits feature ‘regular’ citizens, detailing their lives with as much reverence as one would expect to find of key historical figures. It’s very touching to walk through and read of these ‘ordinary’ lives that become extra-ordinary in the telling of their tales. Many of the buildings around the property have been re-constructed and reimagined with period furniture and touches, and many living history events take place here.

Admission is $18 for adults and $6-10 for kids (depending on age), with multiple discounts for various groups. Definitely eat in the restaurant here for lunch; it was among the best home-cooked meals of our stay in Tennessee. Allow for at least 2-3 hours. The farm is located at 2819 Andersonville Highway, Clinton.

Note: across the street form the Museum of Appalachia is the Appalachian Arts Craft Center, which features crafts, pottery and fiber craft products from local artists. The member artists of this co-op work in studios downstairs and sell their wares upstairs; if you’re looking for hand-crafted souvenirs from Appalachia, this is the place.

Oak Ridge:

Just 30 minutes from Knoxville, Oak Ridge is the once secret city that housed the Manhattan Project during WWII. Now a national historic park, families can tour Oak Ridge in two basic parts. Start at the American Museum of Science and Energy, where you can check in with the national park service and get a park passport stamp. Your admission here includes a three-hour bus tour of the surrounding sites (great to do with older kids), but if you don’t have that much time, you can learn a lot right at the museum. Watch the short video, then tour the exhibits showing the history of Oak Ridge, which housed 75,000 scientists and their families. The bottom part of the museum will take about an hour, then be sure to head upstairs to the outdoor area, where you can walk through an actual housing unit from Oak Ridge. Additional exhibits upstairs are almost exclusively hands-on science exhibits (of a children’s science museum variety). The bus tour takes visitors to some of the actual sites of labs and reactors, and of note: only US citizens can do this part.

Green McAdoo Culture Center:

Continue your history lesson in Clinton with a must-do stop at the Green McAdoo Culture Center. Clinton is the location where on August 27, 1956, twelve teenagers were the first to desegregate a state-supported high school in the South, and Bobby Cain was the first black student to graduate from a public (white) high school. This event took place several years before the better-known moment in history when Ruby Bridges desegregated a school in Little Rock, Arkansas, and yet is nearly forgotten by history. The culture center is changing that, with a wonderful yet small museum in the Green McAdoo school building, just up the road from one-time Clinton High School (still there today, as the current middle school).

The Green McAdoo school served for years as the segregated school for black students, up until the time of desegregation. The historical events that took place in Clinton in 1956 tell a story of bravery from the students, their families, the larger community, and the school. The museum sheds light on important though often hard-to-hear civil rights history during the Jim Crow era, as the town of Clinton was rocked by the events of the ‘Clinton 12’. This is a stop on the East Tennessee history tour for older kids and teens, who will best be able to understand the complicated history. It’s located at 101 School Street in Clinton.

Coal Creek Coal Mining Museum and Discovery Tour:

Finally, take yet another turn through Tennessee history at the Coal Creek Miners Museum in Rocky Top, Tennessee. This is a small but important museum that can be toured in just about 30 minutes. It details the history of coal mining in the area, which started in the 1800s and included the third-worst coal mining disaster in US history, as well as what was known as the Coal Creek War, in which miners formed a militia to try to stop the US government from using prison labor in the mines. It’s a fascinating, sad history, good for school-aged kids and older. After touring the museum, hit a few stops on the Coal Creek Discovery Tour in your car (you’ll get a map at the museum). Stops include locations of the mining camps, cemeteries, and hilltops where the US military used cannons against miners in the Coal Creek War. The locations are largely well-marked, and all are close by.

Do you have a historical stop to add to our East Tennessee history tour? Let us know in the comments!

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Tennessee Department of Tourist Development

How to visit the Paris catacombs with kids

October 24, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

One attraction near the top of my teen’s list of things to do in Paris was the Paris Catacombs. This underground network lies in the heart of the city, spanning two km. It’s creepy and fascinating and toured completely on one’s own, unless you opt for a guide. We recommend it, as the actual visit only takes about 45 minutes and can easily be added to a Paris itinerary with teens or older kids, but there are many things to know ahead of time to make your day run smoothly. Here’s how to visit the Paris catacombs with kids:

You can start on the catacombs’ official website, which will tell you the essential details, but it won’t tell you the number one bit of information you need: to tour, you’ll be given a timed ticket, which involves two different lines and waiting times unless you either 1. buy online, or 2. get there right at opening.

We did not buy ahead of time OR get there early, and this was the process:

Start in a queue to get your timed ticket. You don’t pay at this time. It will be confusing to figure out where this line is or where it starts, as the entrance to the catacombs looks like a boarding line for an airplane…lots of people merging and clustering without a clear queue. Ask any of the officials for the timed ticket line until you find it.
When you get to the front of this line (on our visit, this took about 30 minutes), you’ll be given a slip of paper saying what time to come back. We were there on a pretty busy day and our timed ticket was for 3 hours later. Note: if you arrive in the later part of the afternoon, you’ll probably be told to come back the next day.
When you come back at your timed ticket hour, you will need to show the slip to the official at the front of the entrance and he or she will direct you vaguely in the direction of a vague line. They let in about 50 people at a time (for a total of 200 or so in the catacomb network at once), so you’ll basically be grouping with all the other people who have the same time as you. The wait isn’t long; maybe another 15-20 minutes.

Note: don’t try to come AFTER your time indicated. We were 30 minutes late, and it took some persistence to be allowed in.

Once inside, you’ll pay at the counter and descend the staircase to the underground level. Once there, you’re on your own to walk the (quite long) distance through an underground tunnel to where to opens out into a wider space. Here, you’ll see some signage talking about the history of the catacombs, then the catacombs themselves.

What to expect in the catacombs:

Once you’re in the catacombs themselves, there’s no signage or explanations of anything, apart from a few very generalized dates. Stacked bones line the walkways, primarily made up of femurs, tibias, and skulls. Some are in interesting patterns and geometric shapes, but most are just lining the walkway like a wall. Certainly, it’s an interesting sight, especially for kids and teens but they are human remains, which gives them a decidedly creepy tone. Parents will need to use judgement as to whether their kids are ready for this.

I wished there was more explanation of the remains, but the point made is that these are unknown people, moved here as needed to make room elsewhere. Most of the remains are from the era of plagues when mass graves were necessary. At least, that’s as much as we could put together with little information. If this is a site and subject that interests you greatly, I advise booking a private tour. I know Viator.com has one.

When you arrive at the catacombs, whether you have timed tickets from booking online or need to stand in the queue for timed tickets, expect a certain level of chaos. The official website does not explain the ticketing process well (or at all, really), so many visitors are confused and frustrated. Of course, this would be simple to fix, but when we heard a visitor suggest information be placed on the website, the ticket operator simply chuckled. I guess it will never happen.

A few more logistics:

The stairs both going down and coming up from the catacombs are steep and long. There is no alternative, such as an elevator. Needless to say, this site is not handicap-friendly.
The temperature is 14 degrees C, so wear a light sweater or coat.
There is no bathroom or anywhere to store a backpack.

Visitor numbers are restricted to 200 at any time. Admission may be delayed for a short time during busy periods.

Cost and hours:

Open daily from 10am to 8pm, except Mondays and some public holidays. Last admission: 7pm. To buy tickets online, try this website. Adults are €12, kids under 18 are free.

Directions:

The catacombs are located at 1, avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy – 75014 Paris. You’ll want to take Metro line 4 to the Cité stop.

Exploring Rome with kids: Overome Colosseum tour review

March 21, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Touring Rome’s Colosseum and Forum is always in the top three attractions for families. This center of ancient Roman history is a must-do, but also big, crowded, and complex. We were very glad we opted to see the Colosseum and Forum with a small group tour. If Rome is in your family travel plans, read on for our Overome Colosseum tour review.

We chose to see the Colosseum with Overome based on recommendations from other travel writers. I’d heard Overome’s tour guides work hard to make the content of the tour relevant to kids, are reliable and timely, and are knowledgable. We were steered right, because our guide Federica was all this and more.

Overome Colosseum tour review:

Overome’s Colosseum and Ancient City Tour starts at the Colosseum metro station, directly under the shadow of the great arena. We met Federica (Feddie) here; she was easy to spot with her Overome sign. Our group consisted of only our family of seven, plus three other guests. After brief introductions, we were off…and by off, I mean just across the street to the arena.

Note: I highly recommend booking small group tours instead of large ones. We saw many large groups walking through the sites, and it didn’t look fun to be in a herd.

The Overome tour includes all entrance tickets and fees, so we didn’t have to wait in the imposing ticket line. We did, of course, have to wait in the security line, but although it snaked halfway around the base of the Colosseum on the day we visited, it took less than twenty minutes to get through. During that time, Federica (Feddie) gave us an overview of the structure and its history. While we patiently moved up in the line, we heard other tour guides getting agitated with the wait, and their guests getting impatient. I knew right then, only minutes into our three hour tour, that we were in good hands with Feddie.

Once in the Colosseum, Feddie took us slowly from level to level, explaining how the arena was built and by whom, its architecture and design, and its uses over the years of its history. Even though the complex was crowded, it was easy to hear what she was saying because we were given earbuds and radios.

Everyone knows at least a little about this colosseum of gladiators, emperors, and prisoners, but we learned quite a few new tidbits, especially about the many exotic animals who entertained and died there, as well as specific stories about certain victims of the games.

Feddie used illustrations on an iPad to help explain her points, which really helped us visualize what she was describing. By no means were we looking at the screen all the time, but it was definitely a useful tool. This tour doesn’t take visitors down to the bottom floor of the Colosseum, be we did spend time on the upper levels with views of the labyrinth of rooms and levers and one-time elevators that made the Colosseum function in its heyday. We actually wished we had more time in the Colosseum when it was time to move on to the Forum.

The Forum is the section of the ancient city center for which I most wanted (and needed) a guide. Without one, it’s an expanse of half-ruined buildings and rubble. Even with a guidebook in-hand, it’s not done justice without someone knowledgable to explain it. I know, because the first time I visited the Forum ten years ago, I did it on my own. I learned far more with Feddie.

We started at the far end, where she pointed out major landmarks in the Forum and showed us more images on her iPad to give us an idea of what it once was. After we could visualize it, we could see how the remains of marble and stone had once been grand buildings and streets. She explained what each structure had been used for, including the House and Temple of Vestrals, Arch of Titus, and the alter with Julius Caesar’s ashes. We learned about the multiple ‘layers’ of the Forum, and for the first time, I could really see how much of the area had been buried in mud and soil for centuries at a time.

We spent more than an hour in the Forum, which left us with little time for Palatine Hill. We were given an overview, however, and when Feddie left us, we were still inside the complex, so we were free to explore it more on our own. Instead, we were worn out and hungry by this time, so we asked her for a lunch recommendation in the area. After leaving Feddie, we happily dined on pizza at nearby Pizza Forum.

Our Overome tour definitely confirmed my suspicion that we needed an expert to fully experience this part of the city. And we couldn’t have been happier with Feddie; it was clear she likes her job and knows her stuff.

Cost:

The Overome Colosseum and Ancient City tour is $52 per person, and I believe the value is definitely there. At the time of our visit, we departed from the metro station at 9 am, and were done by 12 pm.

As I disclose whenever applicable, our tour with Overome was complimentary, for the purpose of review. Without this type of hospitality, we would not be able to write personalized and up-to-date reviews.

Why you should tour Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome with kids

March 18, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

While visiting Rome with kids, the time will come when you’ll face a full-on mutiny if you suggest even one more museum. This is the moment to head to the Castel Sant’Angelo. This underrated and overlooked site in Rome is a must-do. We are so glad we tried it!

Unlike the Colosseum, Vatican, and Forum, kids are let loose at Castel Sant’Angelo. This mausoleum turned fortress dates back to AD 123, when it was used by Hadrian’s time, then later used for defense of the bridge to the Vatican and as a refuge for popes. You enter right along the Tiber, and almost immediately go across a steep bridge that once opened and closed. Inside, kids can run along the fortress walls, checking out battlements, a catapult, cubbies from which to shoot arrows…the works. Further inside, you can walk the interior hallways and imagine guards and knights, torches and prisoners in chains. Not much has changed, really. Even the flooring is original. There’s a huge hole in the floor where kids can glimpse the dungeon, and up higher, you can tour through papal rooms still decorated for the popes who hid out here over the years. This interior section is actually quite amazing.

At the very top of the Castel, the views of the city are stunning. Be sure to allow time to take photos and use the view to pick out landmarks you’ve visited during your time in the city. There’s even a small cafe where you can pause for hot chocolate and espresso along the battlement one floor below the top (they don’t let you linger here at the tables if you haven’t ordered, however). Near this cafe are the interior rooms housing armor and weaponry through the ages. Unfortunately the descriptions are in Italian only, but let’s face it…by this point in a trip to Rome, kids are done reading things.

We spent several hours here, and loved the freedom to run around and explore at will. Afterward, we walked across the pedestrian bridge into Centro Storico (the old city) where we weren’t far from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona.

Pricing and hours:

Tickets at the time of our visit were €10 for adults and half that for kids 18 and under. We found no line when we visited a few hours before closing. Check opening and closing time, as it varies by season. During our winter visit, the fortress was open until 7 pm, with last ticket sales at 6:30 pm. I recommend touring around 5 pm in winter to be there for the sunset.

Valley Forge National Historic Park

August 22, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

After three days sightseeing in Philadelphia, I have to admit that I didn’t think Valley Forge could possibly compare. In fact, we nearly skipped this stop en route to Gettysburg, PA. We were so glad to stayed the course! We ended up spending almost three hours at Valley Forge, and could have used more time.

The way this national historic park is set up, visitors start at the Visitor’s Center, see a short film, then set out to see the rest of the (large) site either by driving tour or bicycle. I supposed you could also walk it, but it would take quite a bit of time. As it is, if you have a few hours, you should drive, and only bike the tour if you have a full half day to devote to it. Note: if you go this option, bike rentals are available in the parking lot of the Visitor’s Center.

We opted to drive, so we picked up a map and headed out after checking out the exhibits in the center. By following the self-guided tour (well marked en route), families see nine major sites, including replicas of the wood-hewn huts inhabited by Washington’s army during the long winter of encampment, Washington’s headquarters in a historic farm house, and canons and other trappings of the war. You also see the inner and outer defenses of the camp, and a few ‘new’ additions from the early 20th century, like a stone chapel and several statues.

The drive is beautiful, but bear in mind: it’s easy to get off-course. Follow the brown tour route signs religiously, and you’ll be ok. The whole loop takes approximately 30 minutes if you drive it without stopping, but you’ll want to stop at at least 2-3 locations. We took two hours.

Valley Forge is a good location for families with kids of any age: the drive between sites is short, and every area has plenty of space to run on the grass, explore a creek, or just run a bit. Living history docents in period costume were present at two of the stops we made (on a summer weekday).

Date last visited:

June 2014

Distance from the interstate:

Two minutes off I-76

Dining:

We saw one snack shop by the bike rentals in the main parking area; otherwise, there are plenty of picnic areas. We ate our picnic lunch near the Visitor’s Center because we thought it would be our only chance. Not so: excellent picnic spaces are on offer throughout the driving tour. If we had it to do over again, we would have picnicked at any of many scenic spots overlooking the encampment.

Admission and Hours of Operation:

This national historic site is FREE, and open from sunrise to sunset.

Directions:

The Visitor’s Center is located at 1400 North Outer Line Drive, King of Prussia, PA. From I-76, take Exit 328 A and US 422 West, then Valley Forge Exit to Route 23 West. Follow signs.

A Pit Stop a Day (Day 22): Old Sacramento Historical District

July 18, 2010 By Amy Hagstrom

California State Railroad Museum

We spent our last day, Day 22, driving from Laguna Beach to Sacramento CA on I-5, visiting Sacramento’s historic Old Town and staying our final night on the road at the Embassy Suites Sacramento Riverfront Promenade.

Sacramento’s Old Town is a state historic park covering 28 acres along the Sacramento River directly opposite from downtown. Wooden sidewalks, false storefronts, and cobblestones create the illusion that visitors have returned to the famed California Gold Rush days (although cheap souvenir t-shirt shops and the like seem to work equally hard to distract from this).

By far the best gem of Old Town is the California State Railroad Museum (111 I Street), located at the entrance to Old Town and commanding a distinctive presence in the district. This impressive museum is larger than life (especially for young kids entranced by trains): visitor’s can walk through historic train compartments (the sleeper car even sways and jolts under your feet as though in motion), learn about the building of the railroad, and watch a great film depicting the early railroad days. Upstairs, Thomas the Tank Engine lovers will find extensive train tables at their disposal.

Our favorite shop in Old Sacramento.

After exploring the museum, we walked through Old Town, which consists primarily of shops, restaurants, and a few other smaller museums (a Wells Fargo stagecoach museum and a military museum). The Sacramento River is one block from the museum, as is the historic Delta King riverboat (hotel) and a monument to the Pony Express.

Kids (and adults alike) will love stopping to browse the offerings at Evangeline’s, a joke shop boutique. Nearly all the joke items and gag gifts are suitable for children (apart from a well-closed off ‘adult’ section in the back) and you could spend hours laughing at all the items for sale (at least we could!). My kids finally settled on â€˜handerwear’ (underwear for hands), clacking teeth, and joke mustaches.

If you’re in Old Town after dinner and have saved room for dessert, Sacramento Sweets Co has the best waffle cone sundaes this side of the Mississippi. Their Capitol Sundae feeds two (but you won’t want to share). Be sure to get it topped with their homemade caramel or hot fudge sauce!

Seasonal Tip: If your Sacramento vacation brings you to the city in late August, be sure to attend Old Sacramento’s Gold Rush Days. The streets are covered with dirt and allow only pedestrian or horse-drawn traffic, adding to the authentic old west feel. Living history exhibits and re-enactments are in play all weekend!

Note: Two other great Sacramento attractions include Sutter’s Fort (where California gold was first discovered) and FairyTale Town (located near the Sacramento Zoo).

Date last visited: July 15, 2010.

Distance off the interstate: Right off I-5.

Directions: From I-5, follow signs to Old Sacramento Historic District. Turn off I-5 at J Street, turn left onto 3rd, then turn onto I Street to the California State Railroad Museum.

Up Next: Or last, that is: we review our stay at the Embassy Suites Sacramento Riverfront Promenade!