Iceland - Pitstops for Kids

Iceland camper van road trip tips

July 7, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Iceland has become a popular family vacation destination for many reasons: it is every bit as breathtakingly beautiful as it looks in photographs, there’s essentially no language barrier, it’s extremely family-friendly, and the outdoor recreation and sightseeing is almost endless.

What Iceland is not: cheap. Standard hotels can cost families as much as $400 per night on top of expensive rental car fees (especially if you need a 4×4 car for rough roads). Dining in Iceland is very expensive as well; fast food meals at a basic grill during the time of our 2017 trip were about $15 U.S. per person, and standard sit-down restaurant meals were closer to $45-50 per person. The solution: take an Iceland camper van road trip and combine your lodging and car rental cost and eliminate your restaurant dining out cost. Ready for Iceland camper van road trip tips? Let’s get started!

Start with your camper van rental:

The first stage of planning your Iceland road trip is booking your camper van rental. We used Kuku Campers, one of the largest camper van rental companies in Iceland. Kuku Campers offers just about every size and type of camper van, ranging from small vans that sleep 2-3 people to the larger style we rented, which sleeps five (both are Class C, which don’t require any additional training or know-how to drive). You can also opt between 2×2 or 4×4.

Kuku 2×2 category C camper

We picked this 2×2 van for five people (click on the link to see detailed interior photos) which cost approximately $1800 for nine days ($200 per night). This cost was significantly less than we’d spend on hotels and a rental car. Kuku Campers offers this van in standard (stick shift) or automatic. We opted for standard, as it was cheaper, and I am comfortable driving a stick shift.

Note: Do you need a 4×4 vehicle? If you’re a regular reader of Pit Stops for Kids, you know we’re a pretty adventurous family. We rented a 2×2 van, and were able to access everything we wanted, and more. You need a 4×4 vehicle only if you plan to drive F roads (Iceland’s most rugged dirt roads), which is needed if you plan to backpack or hike deep in the interior.

The features and configuration of our camper van:

In the front were two bucket seats (the driver’s seat and the front passenger seat). Behind those seats was the kitchen area: a countertop/food prep surface with sink and faucet, storage area for a portable stove/cook top, electric refrigerator (which runs when the car is running), dishes and kitchen utensils and silverware, a large water storage container, and a pantry area for food. Behind the kitchen was the main compartment of the van, which had a padded bench seat in a U shape, surrounded by a roomy kitchen table. Above this was a sleeping bunk. At night, the table and bench seat easily folded down to become a second sleeping area. The bottom slept three, and the top slept two. During the day, passengers could sit on the bench seat with seatbelt while the van was on the road.

Lots of space: to the front of this photo would be the kitchen area.

In addition to the running water, which ran from a hose from the water container to the kitchen sink, the van had two overhead lights and a nighttime heater (which could be run when the van was turned off). There is no bathroom in the van, but this isn’t a problem (we’ll get to that soon). We found sufficient storage in the van for our bags under the bench seats and at the very back of the van, in addition to smaller storage areas above the front seats and above the kitchen. Lastly, there were useful hooks to hold jackets and rain pants, as well as curtains to pull around the windows at night. These hung on elastic cords, which we used to hang additional items like wet towels and swimsuits.

But was the van hard to drive?

At first, a little bit, yes. I don’t ever drive anything larger than a minivan at home, so for me, it took a day to get comfortable driving something taller and wider. Icelandic roads are narrower than US roads, so there is definitely a learning curve. I also needed time to get used to backing up the van (though it was far easier than trying to back up a van with a trailer). By Day 2, I was quite comfortable. Overall, driving the van was no big deal, even on dirt and gravel roads, though the van certainly got dirty!

Stopping to make a snack and take photos on a gravel road. There are plenty of turn-outs to use!

The van took diesel fuel, which seemed to be easily available at every gas station, and it cost me about $160 to fill the tank. We drove for eight days, I filled up twice and topped off once, and I spent a total of $360 on gas. At all campgrounds and parking lots for trails, scenic overlooks, and historic sites, there was ample room to park the van. The only place I had trouble navigating parking was in downtown Reykjavik, and even there, I managed (but it was stressful).

Next plan your trip! Here’s what to expect:

I’m going to say something now that I never say on this site: don’t over-plan. If you allow your itinerary to stay flexible, you’ll be able to advantage of all the many moments of spontaneity possible in Iceland. There are natural wonders and historic sites every few kilometers at times; you can’t do it all, but you can decide what to do in the moment. We planned a general route which included the south, west, and east. We purposely didn’t travel the entire Ring Road because with only eight full days on the road, we wanted to spend more time on side roads than Route 1.

Waterfall at the base of one of our campsites.

I absolutely loved having our Kuku Camper, because of the freedom it offered. Every day, we traveled WITH our lodging and dining, so we never had to worry about getting to an exact place to eat or sleep each night. In Iceland, especially in the rural areas (which is most areas), we found that restaurants and shops closed relatively early in the day, even in the peak of summer. We were hard pressed to find dining options open after 6 pm, so we loved the ability to picnic our meals anytime, anyplace. We got into a routine of making breakfast in our camper at the campground in the morning, making a picnic or packed lunch to enjoy out and about, and then stopping at one of Iceland’s many, many scenic overlooks to BBQ or cook our dinner on the road. We arrived at each campground at night well-fed and ready to make camp. While we were driving, if someone was hungry, they could simply make a sandwich on the road, and if we decided at the last minute to detour to see or do something, we never had to care about missing reservations.

Iceland outdoor picnic!

The most unnatural thing to me, as a natural planner, was the fact that you do not need to make campground reservations. If you’ve tried to camp in popular campgrounds in the US in summer, you know this simply isn’t true at home. But in Iceland, they really do mean it when they say their campgrounds do not fill up. They really don’t. Not anywhere. Not ever.

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Guide to Iceland’s southern coast

July 31, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

It’s easy to find advice and guides to Iceland’s famed Golden Circle, and yes, this well-trafficked and easy route from Reykjavik is definitely worth doing. However, beyond the Golden Circle, there’s so much to see in Southern Iceland. Here’s where to go and what to see on Iceland’s southern coast along the Ring Road.

Touring Iceland’s Southern Coast

From Reykjavik, take the Ring Road (Route 1) and head southeast, doing the following. You’ll want at least 2-3 days to enjoy this region at your leisure, though it is possible to drive out and back in one long day with very few stops (not recommended). Here’s where to go:

Hveragerði:

This town 45 km from Reykjavik is home to the wonderful Reykjadalur hot springs river hike. We’ve included it in our post on Iceland hot springs off the beaten path. Follow the signage through the main street of this tiny town to find the trailhead, and then hike 3.5 km (one way) up into the hills to find the hot springs river. The reward of the steaming bath that awaits makes the hike well worth the effort! Even young kids can do this hike with enough time to take it slow (it does get steep).

Hvolsvöllur:

Continue past the pretty town of Selfoss and stop at Hvolsvöllur to visit the LAVA Centre. We’ve included details in our post on Iceland national parks. This brand new center does a great job of explaining the volcanic activity of Iceland, which will be very useful information as you tour the natural formations of the southern end of the island.

Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss:

These waterfalls are definitely worth the stop. As you drive, you’ll see plenty of others, but most are on private property, behind the quaint farms of this region. At Seljalandsfoss, you can walk behind the falls, and explore two additional on a walking path to the left. At Skogafoss, you can hike up the steep stairs to the top of the waterfall, or, if you’re ambitious, you can continue on the start of the Fimmvörðuháls trail. This 25 km trail between Skógar and Þórsmörk is divided into three sections, the first of which is called Waterfall Way. Families can do this as an out-and-back on nice days. (To do the whole trail, a GPS unit or guide is necessary, and most people do it in two days.) Also at Skogafoss is a very good museum: standard admission gets you into a transportation museum and history/folk museum, or you can buy a reduced ticket for just the outdoor buildings of the folk museum side, which include historic sod farm buildings, a schoolhouse, church, and outbuildings. We recommend this option.

Vik:

This little coastal town at the very southern end of Iceland is known for its black sand beaches at Reynisfjara. The turn off Route 1 for the beach is just west of town, and a great place to see the basalt column geological formations Iceland is known for. You can also see puffins, apparently, but we only saw other sea birds making their nests in the cliffs. Vik has a public swimming pool (as do most Icelandic towns) and is a good place to refuel.

Kirkjubæjarklaustur:

We loved this little village, which a lovely waterfall at the end of town (take the hike up it to the impressive lake at the top) and Kirkjugolf (church floor). This natural rock formation was once mistaken for a manmade church floor. It’s located just a few meters down the road from the N1 gas station and easy to access.

Skaftafell:

The most accessible gateway to the largest glacier in Iceland (and Europe), Skaftafell houses the visitor center for the national park, Vatnagokull. Families can take lots of great day hikes here with views of the glacier and Skaftafoss (waterfall), or can hire a guide for a glacier walk (it’s not permissible or safe to walk on the glacier on one’s own). It’s also home to impressive ice cave touring. There’s a nice campground here, if you want to make Skaftafell a turn-around point.

Have you toured the Southern Coast of Iceland? Where do you recommend stopping?

Guide to Iceland national parks

July 28, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Nearly ALL of Iceland looks like a national park, so families can’t go wrong finding beautiful outdoor experiences on an Iceland vacation with kids. But Iceland national parks do pack in a lot of interesting natural features you won’t want to miss. Here’s what to see in each.

Þingvellir National Park:

Þingvellir is easily accessed from Reykjavik, and is located on the Golden Circle, so expect to share space with plenty of tour buses. However, it’s absolutely worth the trip. Start with the main attractions: the rich Viking history in various sites and the location where you can see the shifting of the tectonic plates (over the course of millions of years). There are several walking paths here (we wouldn’t quite call them hikes), the largest of which will take you up to a viewpoint (which is where they put the visitor center and parking lot, disappointingly) where you can see the deep ravines cut into the landscape. Taking the other paths, you can see Drekkingarhylur pool, the site where women were once drowned for offenses such as adultery, and the waterfall Oxararfoss.

Next, explore the valley and lake, where you’ll see the historic sites, including one of Iceland’s first churches. Along the Oxara River, you can find the ruins of Viking camps, called budir.

Top extra activity outside the park: Laugarvanshellir Cave People Tour

This lovely tour is still unknown to most tourists (as its new in 2017). Located outside the park on 365 toward Laugarvatn, you’ll see the little house (think hobbit house) cut into the hillside before you arrive at the small parking lot. Go into the tent that houses a small tea room to purchase a tour, which is led by an enthusiastic guide. In fact, days later, our kids commented he was their ‘favorite Icelander they’d met’. The tour takes about 40 minutes, and takes you up the hillside to see the cave an Icelander couple made into a rudimentary home at the turn of the 20th century. Later, another couple inhabited it for a short time. The single room house is historically restored, and includes a sheep barn and cow barn built into the rock. While it’s interesting the see the house, the story behind it is even more fascinating; this really is a story of Icelandic pioneering. Learn more at http://www.thecavepeople.is

Vatnajokulsthjodgardur National Park:

This was our favorite Icelandic national park, thanks to its dramatic volcanic history and glacier. The visitor center at Skaftafell has a lot of good information: start here and pick a day hike to try. We opted for a loop of about 6 km that took us high up the mountain to spectacular views of Iceland’s largest glacier, Skaftafellsjokull, then cut along a high ridgeline to dip back down to stunning Skaftafoss (certainly a highlight of the park). You can opt for shorter hikes, or longer ones, but for any length, be sure to pack many layers for all types of weather, as you’ll be completely exposed to the elements (as you are in most of Iceland).

Glacier tour operations are located in the parking lot of the visitor center, which can take you onto the surface of the glacier for about $40-60 per person. You are not permitted to walk on the glacier without a guide, as fissures and cracks can be unpredictable. We opted to skip the glacier tour and were satisfied with our excellent views via the hike.

This national park is pretty massive, and offers plenty of F-road goodness for those venturing north, but families can certainly get a feel for the area from the southernmost Skaftafell entrance without venturing beyond Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon.

Top extra activity outside the park: LAVA Centre

Before you enter the national park, stop at the brand new LAVA Centre located at Hvolsvollur. This highly interactive, tech-heavy museum answered a lot of our questions about the geothermal and volcanic nature of the region, which really helped us understand the lava fields, glaciers, and volcanos we saw the following days. The fairly steep entry price (still on par with entry to other museums we visited) is well worth it: get the family pass if it applies to you, to save some money.

The museum is divided into several rooms you walk through in order, each with hands-on activities and digital displays. It’s truly hard to describe how great these exhibits are, but I’ll try: one room mimics the properties of ash, giving you a taste of how it feels to be blinded by it in an eruption, and another room allows you to spin a giant globe, showing the shifting of tectonic plates over millions of years. Start with the 15 minute film and follow the map through the rooms from there. All displays are in English.

Snæfellsjökull National Park:

Located on the west side of Iceland on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, Snæfellsjökull features a big daddy volcano (unfortunately covered in cloud during our visit), as well as black sand beaches with interesting rock formations, caves and lava tubes, and cinder cones. The park is located past the fishing village of Olafsvik, with a visitor center located at the space ship-looking lighthouse about three-fourths of the way through the park. See great views of the ocean and sea stacks here, then book a cave tour a few meters down the road. If you don’t want to spend the money (it’s not cheap), do as we did and take the short self-guided tour of the main cave entrance. All around the cave are smaller lava tubes you can (but probably shouldn’t) climb into.

There’s also a well-marked cinder cone in the park, which is an easy climb with metal steps, and affords great views. We loved that at the top, a circular plaque names all the nearby mountains and volcanoes so you can identify each one.

Top extra activity outside the park: Settlement Center

At the bottom of the peninsula, you’ll first enter Borgarnes on 60. Go to the Settlement Center, one of the best museums in the region. It’s located by the harbor in a warehouse, but inside, you’ll see the history of the Icelandic settlement era and learn more about its famed Sagas.

Beyond the Blue Lagoon: Iceland hot springs off the beaten path

July 26, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Yep, we went to Iceland for eight days and never went to the Blue Lagoon. Why pay a crazy entry fee to go to an overcrowded geothermal pool, when so many remote, beautiful, and FREE pools exist all over Iceland?

During our camper van road trip in Iceland, we dipped our toes in steaming water every single day, and never paid an entry fee of more than $25 (and usually paid nothing at all).

Where to find Iceland hot springs off the beaten path:

Reykjadalur hot springs river:

In the south, just about 40 minutes outside of Reykjavik, the small town of Hvergerdi offers a 3.5 kilometer hike into the geothermal hills to a hot springs river. Yes, it’s well worth the hike. You’ll climb upward pretty steeply for the first km or so, then work your way up and down over hills with lovely views of the valley below. Eventually, you’ll see steam billowing up, and you’ll quicken your pace, because you’ll know you’re close! At the river, there’s a boardwalk with entry points along the small stream, and a few wooden walls that serve as changing areas. If you follow the boardwalk up, you’ll find the hottest water (so hot it’s almost painful), and as you walk down, you’ll find cooler water (closer to 35-37 C). It’s a lot of fun to move from section to section feeling the different temperatures.

If you don’t want to change behind a wall, you can change in the small bathrooms at the little cafe at the start of the hike, or just wear your swimsuit under your hiking wear. Be sure to bring lots of layers, including rain wear, as there’s no protection from the elements (similar to all over Iceland). The hot springs river is free, and does get crowded on the trail (though even in peak season, we found plenty of space in the river to soak).

To get here: Take Route 1 (Ring Road) from Reykjavik to Hvergerdi. Drive through town following the Reykjadalur signage until you get to a gravel road ending in a parking lot.

Seljavallalaug Hidden Hot Spring:

This one may not be so hidden anymore, but it’s still uncrowded. This geothermal pool is located in the middle of nowhere in a tiny valley with green mountains rising dramatically up all around it. The pool was made near the turn of the 20th century, for the purpose of teaching Icelandic children to swim (before the 1920s, unbelievably, most Icelanders could not swim). It has a single pool and rudimentary changing rooms (unisex…it gets interesting). This pool gets some criticism on TripAdvisor and the like, with people calling it dirty. It’s not dirty: it’s rich in algae, natural to Icelandic hot springs. The hike to the pool is only about one km, and our only complaint is that the water is a bit on the cool side (around 35 degrees). Toward the southern end of the pool where the geothermal water flows in, it’s closer to 40 degrees. On a warm day, this is fine, but on the cold, sleeting day we visited, it was painful to get out! This pool is FREE.

How to get here: From Route 1, turn down road 242 in the south. Follow the dirt road straight (don’t turn right) and you’ll get to a parking lot with an unused pool about 1/4 mile in. The hike is short into the valley (you can’t see the pool from the parking area though).

Laudar campsite hot pot:

This adorable hot pot (hot tub) is located in the Laudar campsite in west Iceland. The parking lot is at the Hotel Edda, and the walk is just a few meters. There’s a quaint changing hut (unisex, but fewer people are here) and the water is a perfect 38 degrees. You can camp onsite, too, if desired. This hot pot is FREE.

How to get here: From Route 1, take 60 all the way up through the isolated farmlands until you’re above the town of Budardalur. Follow the sign to Laudar.

Secret Lagoon:

So the Secret Lagoon is no secret, but it can be found just outside of the town of Fludir near the Golden Circle. You’ll find a large pool half-formed by natural rock, fed hot water from bubbling geysers nearby. It’s the most expensive pool we visited ($25 per adult), probably because of its proximity to the Golden Circle and its tourism traffic. No matter: it’s worth spending a few hours here.

How to get here: Take road 30 to Fludir. The sign is just before you enter town. Go down a dirt road for just about a mile.

Hot pot of Flokalaundar:

If you’re willing to drive about two hours (mostly on dirt) from Reykholar in the Westfjords, you’ll arrive at a hot pot nestled right against the sea. Do as the locals do and jump between the warm water (around 38 degrees) and the freezing ocean and back. This hot pot is larger than Laudar but a bit busier. No changing rooms…change in your car or camper. There’s a small parking lot right nearby.

How to get here: From Route 1, take 60 and follow it all the way up into the fjords. Be sure to have a full tank of gas, as there are few services before you reach Flokalaundar. Plan on narrow, steep dirt road for part of the drive. Is it worth it? Yes.

Tip: Can’t get to a natural hot springs one day? Look for a public Icelandic pool! Every town we drove through had their own (look for the water and swimmer signage), and each cost less than $10-$12. Inside each complex, you’ll find a geothermal fed warm outdoor pool (often with waterslides and other features), hot pots, and a steam bath, plus nice changing rooms and hot showers. Talk with locals here, and get to know the real Iceland. Remember to follow custom and shower nude before swimming. Never bring cameras or phones into the pool or changing areas.

Three favorite public Icelandic pools:

Note: Photos are not allowed of Icelandic public pools.

Laugardalslaug: Iceland’s largest public pool complex is only $8 for entry, and in our opinion, beats the heck out of the Blue Lagoon. There are two huge outdoor pools (one is a lap pool, the other has all sorts of features…basketball hoop, big twisty waterslides, climbing ropes, floating platforms, and water toys), four hot pots of various temperatures, a cold plunge, a huge steam bath, a massage area, and a large kiddie pool area. There are spacious and clean locker facilities and hot showers. On the grounds are also sand volleyball courts, exercise equipment, and a ropes course. Laugardalslaug is located in the suburbs of Reykjavik.

Drangsnes: The public pool on the Steingrimsfjordur fjord in the north has all the usual amenities, with a location right on the sea. Best of all, the town has arranged for free hot pots to be placed and maintained right on the beach, should you not need the added amenities of showers.

Kirkjubaejarklaustur: This public pool has views of the town’s pretty waterfall from the hot pots, plus a nice sized swimming pool with small water slide and a kid’s hot pot/wading area. What we loved about this pool was its local vibe: we had the opportunity to talk with many Icelanders here, and all were welcoming.

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