Italy with kids - Pitstops for Kids

Four day trips from Rome (with or without a car)

August 12, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

We’re in the midst of organizing our first family European trip, which is great fun. After all, your trip starts the minute you begin planning it! I’ve always loved Rome, so I know the Colosseum, Vatican, and lesser-known stops like the Mercato Testaccio will be on the itinerary. However, I also know my favorite way of experiencing the Eternal City (which consisted of multiple days of city touring and lots of pizza and wine) will need adjusting. This time around, we’ll eat just as much pizza, but will also head outside the city to see more of the Roman and Tuscan countryside. Below, read our top four Roman day trip picks, and how to get to them.

Sabine Hills (Sabina):

For a good dose of walled cities, medieval architecture, and quintessentially Italian rolling hillsides, head to Sabina. Olive trees dot the countryside, as do monasteries and Renaissance palaces. I’ve toured an olive oil production here, but I know my kids would rather poke around in the ancient walled villages of Toffia or Farfa, or hike along the worn trails of Monti Lucretili National Park.

Start in Fara Sabina, either by train or car. A direct train departs every 15 minutes from stations in Rome to Fara Sabina-Montelibretti Station. This will take about 45 minutes, and then families will need to transfer to bus to tour other villages. If you rent a car in Italy, you’ll have more freedom to explore. Take the Rome-Florence (A1) motorway to Fiano Romano exit, then follow signs to Rieti and Fara Sabina.

Appia Antica (Old Appian Way):

One of my favorite sights in Italy, and located just outside the city limits of Rome, Old Appian Way is an ancient, narrow road leading to the catacombs of the Eternal City. A visit outside the walls of Rome is really valuable for kids: they can visually learn exactly how the gates would open and shut, and see where the dead were once buried. Is it creepy? Sure! But not as much as I thought it would be. Definitely take a catacombs tour (most are lead on the hour in Italian and English, with other languages getting a few per day), then plan to stay for the afternoon picnicking in the pretty countryside along the road.

No need for a car for this day trip. Take bus 218 from San Giovanni Metro stop. Start with the biggest and most extensive catacombs, St. Callixtus. Families can see the crypt of nine popes here, and excellent examples of early Christian art. Buy tour tickets at the entrance. From here, it’s possible to walk along the road, but it’s very narrow (and walled), so when we go as a family, I plan to take the bus from stop to stop along Old Appian Way.

Tivoli:

To show kids what Renaissance villas really looked like, a day trip to Tivoli is a must. Only about 35 km from Rome, Tivoli is home to both Villa d’Este, located in the Piazza Trento, and Hadrian’s Villa. It’s easy to tour both via the bus system that connects them. Villas d’Este’s gardens utilize an innovative water irrigation system parents can point out to kids; there are 500 fountains alone. Families can take a tour through Viator, or visit on their own.

If you’re driving, it’s an easy commute from Rome via the S5 to Tivoli. There’s train service from Rome’s Tiburtina station as well.

Florence:

Yes, families can get to Florence and the greater Tuscany region as a day trip from Rome, though it will certainly take all day. Spend time perusing Italy’s finest collection of Renaissance art at Galleria degli Uffizi, but definitely buy tickets online in advance. Then give kids a break from museums and architecture by spending time at the Ponte Vecchio, Florence’s first bridge, and Campanile, the bell tower in Piazza del Duomo.

The fastest (but most expensive) way to get to Florence from Rome is on the fast train, then walking to the historic center, but we plan to drive a rental car, which is three hours up the A1.

This post was done in partnership with Enterprise Rent-a-Car but they had no input on the content. All opinions are my own.

Photo credit: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra, Larry.

Rome

Italy with kids: Cinque Terre itinerary for families

January 9, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

On a trip to Italy with kids, you’re likely to devote a good deal of time to art and history in Florence and archeological ruins in Rome. Afterward, escape the intensity of the city with this three-day Cinque Terre itinerary for families.

Day One: Florence to Cinque Terre

We took a morning train from Florence to Lucca and spent several hours walking around this lovely walled city. It’s definitely worth the side trip. There is a baggage check place right across from the station where we left our bags. From there you can just walk into the town or rent a bike from the same place.

Then we took a train from Lucca to La Spezia (you can get one ticket that is Florence to La Spezia and just get off and on again) where you change trains for the towns of Cinque Terre. Be sure to get off at La Spezia Centrale station, not La Spezia Milgliarina.

In La Spezia, make sure you take a local train that stops in Riomaggiore (Genoa-La Spezia line). Check the train schedules because they don’t all stop at the little Cinque Terre towns.

We stayed 2 nights at Affittacamere Le Giare which I found through Trip Advisor and booked through Booking.com. Being off-season many places were closed. But this was a wonderful little apartment where our host was waiting for us and made dinner recommendations. We had time for a walk around the town using Rick Steves’ guide.

Note: you can also go from Milan to Cinque Terre.

Day Two: Village to village hiking

We awoke to rain but it cleared up by 9:00 and we found a café in town for breakfast. All the Cinque Terre villages cater to American tourists who come in droves in the summer so there are many cafes trying to serve American or English breakfasts.

You can go from village to village three different ways: by train, hike or by boat. Boats only run in season (and we visited in winter) and most of the train trip is through tunnels, obscuring views between village stops, so we opted to hike. The entire hike is approximately eight miles one-way, which is do-able with older kids and teens, when broken up into a leisurely day.

The first two sections of the hiking trail were closed: Riomaggiore to Manarola is only a 20-minute walk and has been closed for years; the second section, Manarola to Corniglia takes a little longer but is less scenic.

We took the train from Riomaggiore to Corniglia and started our hike from there. Finding the correct trail out of Corniglia toward Vernazza proved to be a bit of a challenge but after climbing a long set of switchback steps up to the town center, we found the red and white stripes on the stonewalls that serve as trail markers.

Tip: It’s a beautiful hike up out of Corniglia and you are able to look back at the village perched on the cliffs. Stunning!

The hike from Corniglia to Vernazza takes about an hour and a half but it is rocky, with some stone steps and somewhat hilly. You hike through vineyards and ravines. No one was on the trail when we were there, which made it pretty magical. In summer the crowds must really take away from the remote beauty, which is why we enjoyed an off-season visit. In another hour we came to Vernazza where we stopped for a delicious pizza lunch at a busy café right by the harbor.

Finding the continuing trail from Vernazza to Monterosso was easy. But the hike to Monterosso was the most difficult of all. It took us about an hour and a half with lots of ups and downs and muddy areas. But most of it is along cliffs with amazing views.

Monterosso is more of a resort town than the others. It is built on flat land and divided into two parts—the old and new. There are long stretches of beach and umbrella rentals, etc. It is also the only Cinque Terre village that is on a main train route. It was our least favorite.

To return to Riomaggiore, we took the train (they come about every hour, more often in summer) and rode it straight through from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. We were back in time to shower and rest up before a nice dinner by the harbor.

Day Three: Manarola back to Rome

We were headed back to Rome today for our morning flight out the next day, but before we left Riomaggiore we took the train to the second village that we could not hike to due to trail closures, Manarola. What a perfect morning outing! We found a little café for some pastries, but not much else was open. It was very quiet. Rick Steves’ walking guide took us up through the town and into the vineyards and graveyards with stone terraces.

We took the train back to Riomaggiore, got our bags and then took another train to La Spezia where we changed trains to get back to the Rome Termini.

In summary:

Visit Lucca coming or going to Cinque Terre
Walk as much of the trail as you can and what you can’t, go back to by train and visit the villages that way.
Don’t think you’ll have views on the train because you don’t.
Pick one village as a base because they are all so close together.
Go off-season. We were told April was the best.

Florence Italy at Christmas

December 7, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Last holiday season, we made a last minute decision to add Florence, Italy to our European family vacation. We arrived in Florence on December 24, Christmas Eve, and left December 27. While planning, I worried that perhaps, spending Christmas in Florence wouldn’t feel festive…after all, their seasonal Christmas markets close before Christmas Day. However, I couldn’t have been more wrong. Florence Italy at Christmas is beautiful! Scroll down for a few tips and plenty of images.

Florence Italy at Christmas:

We came to Florence from Paris, where the Christmas markets were still in full swing. However, Florence definitely beats out the City of Lights in holidays light displays. Every narrow street of historic Florence featured strings of lights. Each street was different.

Florence also has many more Christmas trees than Paris. We found this to be true throughout Italy as opposed to France. Italy, and Florence in particular, also has wonderful nativity scenes.
While in Florence for Christmas, look for impromptu Christmas carnivals in various piazzas, including cheap carnival games, street performers, carrousels, and outdoor ice skating rinks.

On Christmas Day, expect for museums to be closed. Take walking tours instead, or go to a church service.
Try to make reservations for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals ahead of time. Some restaurants will close. For those that remain open, expect them to be busy for Christmas lunch and closed for the evening. Some restaurants will have set menus. Stock up on a few basics at the grocery store so you can make a simple Christmas evening meal in your apartment rental, if that’s an option for you.

Look for elaborate Nativity scenes in Florence, both outside the Duomo and in area churches. It’s ok to step inside churches to see their nativity scenes, provided you don’t go during service hours.
Step inside artisan meat and cheese shops and you’ll most likely find generous tasting offerings. We tasted so much cheese, it was a snack!

Buy a panettone at a grocery store. This traditional Italian holiday bread is similar to a coffee cake, and we picked one up for under €5. We liked it so much, we bought another in Rome!
If you want to ice skate at the outdoor rinks, the ice is free, but skate rentals are around €5 per person. For this price, you usually get about 30 minutes. This was enough time for us. The rink we found was open Christmas Day.

Have you been to Florence at Christmas? What was your favorite sight to see?

Best restaurants in Rome for non-foodies (plus eating in Italy tips):

June 6, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Eating in Italy? You’re in for a treat! After eating our way through the country, I am here for you with tips for dining in Italy with kids, plus our picks for the best restaurants in Rome. Note: for Florence dining recommendations, read our Three Days in Florence with Kids article.

Best restaurants in Rome (by category):

Pizza:

Pizza Forum: This restaurant has a boring name, and looks and sounds touristy, but was recommended to us by our Italian tour guide. She was not wrong. In fact, while it’s located in a very touristy zone near the Forum, it was filling up with locals when we got there at 2 pm.

Panettoni: Located in the Trastevere area, we thought Panettoni served the best of the traditional Roman variety of pizza: it was light, thin, and flavorful.

Honestly, every other pizzeria in Rome calls itself the best. (Not unlike New York City pizza joints, actually.) Just about anywhere, you’ll find good pizza, especially if you stick to the basics. Really. Enjoy.

Trattorias:

Armando al Pantheon: this little place is big on ambiance, in a perfect location for dining after an evening of souvenir shopping around the Pantheon. You can even visit Piazza Navona first, then dip out of that expensive dining area to pay much less for better food here.

Ristorante Pizzeria Imperiale (Largo Corrado Ricci, 37, by Coloseum): Another spot along the busy Colosseum and Forum area, this place as a nice outdoor patio (heated in winter), great seafood dishes, and above average pizza.

Cuccagna 14 (Via della Cuccagna): This bright and cheery trattoria just outside of Piazza Navona won us over with it’s twinkling lights and warm ambiance. Their bruschetta and antipasto was sourced completely by a local farm, and their lasagna was to die for.

Upscale Trattorias:

Il Bacaro: A super-friendly place near the Pantheon, we had great antipasto here and inventive second courses.

Ad Hoc: this cozy little hole-in-the-wall wine bar off Piazza Populo isn’t great for big families, but they can easily accommodate a group of four or less. (I’m sure they can accommodate more, but it would be a squeeze for you and the other diners.)

Faciolaro Ristorante Pizzeria (via dei Pastini by Pantheon): We ate one of our favorite meals here on New Year’s Eve. The grilled steak was a group favorite, and I loved the homemade pasta and excellent artichokes. Their open kitchen is fun, too…ask to sit in the dining area near it.

Gelato, coffee, and dessert:

There’s a little cafe right on the corner of the Jewish Ghetto by Piazza Venicia that serves excellent pastry and macchiato. Ask for the puff pastry with whipped cream. They’ll slice it for you on the spot, fill it with cream, and drizzle it with chocolate.

Cremeria Monteforte: I first found this gelato hot-spot ten years ago on my first trip to Rome. It was so good, I came back for more (Rick Steves swears by it, too). It’s located directly on the piazza of the Pantheon. Sit outside and eat with a view!

Come il Latte (Via Silvio Spaventa, 24): this place by Repubblica has some of the most authentic and homemade gelato in Rome. Plus, you can get flavored whipped cream on top.

Venchi: There are actually many Venchi shops across Italy, and the brand is a solid pick. Look for flowing chocolat calda (hot chocolate) and chocolate candies as well. We found one by the Spanish Steps, but youll see them elsewhere, too.

Note: Right off Piazza Navona, there’s a very average gelato shop with a very extraordinary server. I wish I could remember the name of the place, but it’s located on the far end of the piazza. We assume the server was the owner, because he was very animated, enthusiastic, and welcoming. He joked with the kids, added extra scoops to cones, and smiled at everyone who came in. This older gentleman made our night!

Rome dining tips:

Finding exact restaurant recommendations can be frustrating, since the streets are not in a grid pattern and you’ll likely be meandering until you’re hungry. Our rule of thumb: once you’ve found any major attraction or piazza, enjoy it, then walk one block down any connecting street for the best dining options. The restaurants directly on the piazzas will be higher priced and probably touristy, but just a matter of yards away, smaller, tucked away establishments beckon. This is your sweet spot.

Don’t overlook specialty stores and groceries. Look for meat and cheese counters where you can put together your own antipasto plate to eat at home, or make a picnic out of foods at pasta shops and wine bars.

Florence tips:

Florence and the great Tuscany region is known for their beef and spinach as well as their wine. If you order something in the ‘Florentine style’, it’s likely with spinach. And this is not the canned PopEye variety…you’re in for a treat. If ordering steak, as my teens love to do, be sure to ask how big it actually is. In Florence, it’s often sold (even in restaurants) by the kilogram. It’s not unusual for the steak to be the size of the dinner plate. Enjoy!

Florence can get very touristy, but head over the Ponte Vecchio and you’ll be in fewer crowds and find better prices. Enjoy afternoon gelato, and you may get away with simple antipasto in your room for a the kids’ dinner hour. There’s an upscale grocery store with an excellent cheese and meat counter located right over the bridge. Turn left at the second street and look for the blue sign.

General tips for eating in Italy:

During our trip through Florence, Pisa, Rome, and Naples, we found the following to be true nearly everywhere:

Almost all restaurants around tourist areas will provide menus or menu boards out front. Look through prices before you’re pressured to go in. Primi or pasta courses in good trattorias will be in the 8-12 euro per person range. Secondi courses can reach 20-30 euros per person. There’s no need to order both a first and second course. We liked to order one antipasto plate for the table (see appetizer tip below) and one plate (primi, secondi, or pizza) per person.
Head to trattorias (cafes, casual) but don’t be afraid to venture into osterias (wine bars, pubs). Both are kid-friendly. In fact, just about everything is kid-friendly when it comes to the Italian food scene.
When ordering, beware of saying yes to suggested appetizers ‘for the table’. In Italy, this often means one per every person at the table (with the price multiplied accordingly). We made this mistake at a adorable trattoria near Piazza Navona when we ordered the suggested bruccetta. It was a happy mistake, as the plate was delicious, but still cost us an extra 25 euros.
Buy water for the table by the liter. Ditto for wine, if you’re on a budget. Water doesn’t come to the table automatically or complimentarily. Ordering it per person can be up to 2,50 euro a glass. Alternatively, a liter of water (size of an extra large water bottle) is usually around 3,50. We usually buy a few of these for the table, since we’re used to drinking a lot of water with our meals.
Wine is cheap and plentiful. Enjoy. We like to get a half liter or liter for the table, depending on how many adults will be drinking. Note for parents of teens: the legal drinking age is 16 (and younger kids will not be frowned upon for drinking wine either, FYI).
Soda, on the other hand, is often just as expensive as wine, and sometimes as expensive as water. When we want soda, which isn’t too often, we buy it by the liter in the grocery store, and let the kids drink it during pre-dinner ‘aperitif’.
So what IS aperitif? This is the Italian version of happy hour, but more refined. It’s usually between 6 pm and 8 pm, and involves wine or a cocktail intended to open the digestive track for the later dinner meal. It often comes with antipasto-type dishes. We found that with kids in tow, we didn’t bother going out for aperitif, but we did enjoy our own version in our rental apartment. We bought cheese, crackers, and salami in the grocery store, and paired them with wine for mom and dad and soda or juice for the kids. This tided us over until 8 pm or later for dinner out.
In and around the tourist hot spots in Rome and Florence, you’ll be hard-pressed to find restaurant staff who do not speak enough English to get you by. Even the less touristy establishments can help you pick out what you want to eat, and without exception, we found all restaurants to be friendly to us as Americans bumbling with our Italian.

What are your top tips for dining in Italy? I’d love to hear them!

Guide to Villa Borghese with teens who want to do everything extreme

May 9, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

We’re a very active family who spends significant time outdoors when we travel. In Rome, we noticed the lack of green spaces right away. Luckily, our apartment rental was located directly across the Tiber from Piazzo Popolo with an entrance to Villa Borghese. This sprawling green space and garden is Rome’s version of Central Park, and if you have active kids and teens who need to burn off energy, this is your place.

We visited Villa Borghese several times during our five days in Rome, using it as our backyard after mornings in museums and historical sites. Originally a private vineyard and most elegant villa in the city for the Borghese family, the park is technically a historical site in its own right, but we admit we didn’t take advantage of its Galleria Borghese or other museums. We were simply there to play.

From the Piazza Popolo entrance, you’ll head up a series of steep steps to enter the park at a beautiful overlook. This is, in our opinion, the place to watch the sunset over St. Peter’s dome. You’ll find a number of vendors in this wide space at the top, as well as fountains and paths that lead you further into the park. Younger kids will appreciate the free puppet shows at the little theater in this section, and this is also where you can rent bikes and pedal-powered go-karts.

Garden features like this one are featured amid all the touristy offerings. You’ll see a wide pedestrian bridge adjacent to the bike rental stands, which will lead you across a round-about (with some traffic) to the center of the park. Explore this area on wheels, or your feet will get tired! It’s huge. You’ll find another theater, this one with movies, touted as ‘the smallest cinema in the world’. I don’t know whether this is true, but it’s pretty tiny. It runs kids’ movies in the day and intellectual stuff like documentaries and foreign language films in the evenings. There’s a playground, several cafes, and many more gardens and fountains. In a second section, you’ll find a lake with boat rentals; we visited in winter, so this wasn’t a main draw for us.

Rent bikes, surreys, and go-karts:

The first thing we did was rent bikes so we could explore. Rental stands are plentiful, so you shouldn’t have trouble finding one, no matter where you enter the park. At the time of our visit, rentals were approximately €7 per hour. We found one hour to be enough to ride around and get the lay of the land. On subsequent visits, we walked where we wanted to go. Go-kart and surrey rentals were similarly priced, with the exception of the four-person surreys, which were more. You leave your ID with the attendant when you rent (I gave my driver’s license, as my passport doesn’t leave my sight when possible) and pay when you return on time. The teens had a blast with the petal-powered go-karts…mostly, they played ’tag’ with them on the wide dirt paths around the park.

Rent Segways:

In Piazzo Popolo, you can rent Segways by the half hour or longer. You don’t need to go with a guide, and very little to no instruction is given. To the teens, this was awesome. Rentals were €10 for 30 minutes. We rented three (one for each kid). If you rent for longer, you can actually take them from the piazza up to the park, which we saw many families doing, but our budget only allowed for half an hour. The kids loved riding these around the piazza…while undoubtedly a touristy thing to spend money on, we considered it money well-spent. For a total of €30, three kids were in heaven. Like with the bike rentals, we were asked to leave an ID, and the kids were told ‘not to zig-zag and not to run into each other’. If seen doing either, they’d be given one warning, then taken off the Segway. Even though the kids hadn’t used Segways before, they’re easy to learn, and we had no problems until the moment we returned them, during which our 11-year-old ran into the back of our 16-year-old while distracted by the guy’s instructions for parking. He was sternly admonished. We were glad it hadn’t happened earlier.

Watch street performers with serious skills:

All over the park, street performers with various talents show off their skills. We enjoyed a pretty good roller blade demonstration and some great juggling. We heard some good music and some very bad music, then returned to watch the roller bladers in time to see some wince-inducing crashes by some amateurs. Either way, it was entertaining.

Buy a soccer ball or play at a playground:

For about €5 (though they’ll ask for ten, initially), many street vendors have cheap soccer balls for sale. We bought one at the beginning of our stay in Rome, and the boys used it in the park several times before giving it away to another child before we departed. You’ll find plenty of grass areas in which to start a game, and we found other kids joined in almost every time. In fact, when Calvin dribbled it around the city, about every other restaurant waiter standing outside their dining establishments jumped in to pass it around and start conversations with us. Money well spent!

What to eat:

There’s a sit-down cafe by the playground, plus many other carts and stands throughout the park. My favorite was by the round-about and pedestrian bridge. It had outdoor seating (heated in winter) and a crepe station. The espresso and chocolat caldo (hot chocolate) were excellent.

How to get there:

As noted above, we always entered from Piazza Popolo, but you can also enter above the Spanish Steps (we departed the park here once). There’s a metro station in both locations.

Three days in Florence with kids

April 27, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

I’ve heard it said that Florence is not an ideal destination for kids, but I couldn’t disagree more. Our three days in Florence were among our best in Europe. Even with only a basic education in Renaissance art, which Florence is known for, we found plenty to do in this charming and picturesque Tuscan city. For us, the key to enjoying Florence with kids was to temper museum visits with lots of eating and shopping through the many street markets and artisan shops.

Florence is a very walkable town. Even from the main train station, Santa Maria Novella, families can easily walk into the city center in ten minutes. During our entire stay, we never needed any sort of transportation. After a fun but busy week in Paris, this fact alone set the relaxed tone for our stay. Right away, we noted that wherever we walked, we found beautiful alleys, shops, and art to peruse.

Florence is filled with historical sites and museums, most of which can be accessed on walking tours of the city with outdoor sculptures, exterior architecture, and free-entry churches. In fact, we only went in to three museums during our stay. Here’s how we spent three days in Florence with kids:

Day 1: David and Duomo

Florence is home to two major museums for Renaissance art: the Uffizi Gallery and the Accedemia. Most people would consider the Uffizi a must-do, and I don’t disagree…but with three kids who have not studied Renaissance art, we did the unthinkable: we skipped it. Instead, we went directly the the Accedemia to see Michelangelo’s David. This is a sculpture we DID study beforehand, and it did wow us. The Accedemia is not so big as to be overwhelming; it was easy to quickly find the David and the few other pieces of art we knew we wanted to see. These included the Prisoners and the hall of musical history, with wonderful instruments from various centuries. We spent only an hour and a half in the Accedemia, which may be considered a crime, but worked well for us.

We bought our tickets online ahead of time, which allowed us to skip the long ling out front. Instead, we only needed to go to the ‘advance ticket’ booth across the street from the entrance, where they printed out our tickets by reservation number. These are timed tickets, and we opted for mid-morning.

Note: if you have tall teens, have them bring an ID to guarantee them their free entry. Kids 18 and under are free, but apparently our 16-year-old looks older than he is.

The Accedemia is a short, direct walk to the Duomo, Florence’s crown jewel. This dome is an architectural wonder, and kids love it. On the five minute walk, stop for sandwiches at the take-out window en route. There’s a small grocery store nearby with very affordable water bottles and juice. At the Duomo, the combined ticket gets families into the dome, the museum, and the camponile for about €12 a ticket. Entry to the cathedral is free. Teens pay full price; kids 12 and under are half price. It’s also possible to get a ticket for just the dome, though we recommend seeing it all, especially if you’re doing only a few paid museum visits.

Note: We bought tickets for the Duomo first thing in the morning, on our walk over to the Accedemia. The line for tickets is shorter at this time. You can buy tickets in either the main ticket line or at the campanile. Opt for the latter. When you return, you’ll still wait in a line to go up the campanile and the dome, but others will be waiting in both these lines AND the ticketing line.

The line to go up into the dome gets long, but it moves fast. It’s a very interesting visit. First you go up a narrow, spiraling staircase, which spits you out on a balcony overlooking the interior of the lower dome. From here, you can look down at the cathedral interior, and up at the frescos on the dome. You’re moved along at a steady pace to another series of staircases to the upper dome area. This time, you’re in the unadorned interior of the outer dome. Imagine two layers of dome, with you sandwiched between. It’s not that claustrophobic, but close. This is a great place to note how the dome’s architect, Filippo Brunelleschi, constructed this masterpiece (he was inspired by Rome’s Pantheon dome). Finally, a final, steep, and narrow staircase takes you to the very top, where you’re deposited outside the tip of the dome for amazing city views.

Expect to feel the crush of humanity on this visit: while in a line, there are several places along the route where the people going up meet with the people going down, with only minimal crowd control by Duomo staff. There are quite a few moments of squeezing past people and letting others pass. If you’re tall, watch your head on the low ceilings. Consider not bringing a backpack, as the extra width will make it hard to navigate the stairs.

On the route back down, you’ll get the chance to stop at the upper interior dome balcony, where you can practically (but not quite) touch the frescos on the ceiling. It’s truly an amazing visit.

Note: There are over 400 steps on the accent, so bear this in mind. However, anyone of reasonable health and fitness can do it: the line of people move steadily but slowly.

After visiting the dome, you’ll probably need a break from stairs before tackling the campanile. Visit the museum, which rarely has a line at all. Here, you’ll see a life-size model of the front of the Duomo from the years before it was ‘re-modeled’ during the Renaissance, plus several levels of fascinating art and artifacts. Kids and teens will be especially interested in the collection of church relics on the ground floor. They include bones from the likes of John the Baptist and several saints. Young kids may be creeped out, as some bones are very recognizable as human, such as jawbones embedded in gold and jewels. We spent about an hour in this museum, but you could easily spend longer.

Day 2: Oltrarno walk and Da Vinci

We spread out our museum visits, which meant we saved the fun Da Vinci museum for Day 2. There are actually two ‘campuses’ of this museum in Florence, and according to our guide books, they are quite similar…if you go to one, there’s no need to go to the other. There’s a flat entry rate for families (I believe it was €20), or you can opt to pay a la carte if you have younger kids (kids 12 and under are half price). The Da Vinci Museum is completely self-guided, and consists of a large collection of to-scale models of Da Vinci’s many inventions. The best part: it’s hands on. Kids can pull levers, move wheels, and push and pull things to see how Leonardo’s many contraptions worked. It’s fascinating for adults too: it was amazing to see how far ahead of his time Da Vinci was thinking. We saw his model for an odometer, a tank, a humidity tester, and so many, many more. His flying contraptions were there, as well as his anatomical sketches and replicas of his paintings, so kids could compare his artwork to his inventions and learn how he studied anatomy in an era when it was illegal to study cadavers.

Note: If you have energy for another museum, the Galileo Museum is adjacent to the Uffizi and has Galileo’s actual telescopes (as well as his finger, interestingly enough).

After a morning of museum visits, we had had enough. We opted for a walking tour through the afternoon. From the Galileo, we started outside the Uffizi, where families can see many sculptures outside in the courtyard. Then we crossed the Ponte Vecchio bridge (checking out the jewelry vendors while walking over) to the Oltrarno neighborhood. Oltrarno simply means ‘on the other side of the Arno’, and is much quieter and, in our opinion, less touristy than the Duomo side. This is where the many artisans of Florence have their shops, which you can peek into as you explore the narrow streets here. From the bridge, continue straight to the Pitti Palace. This imposing palace was home to the famous Medici family for generations. You can go inside, but we’re done with art for a bit, right?

Instead, we continued, turning right down more artisan streets, exploring as we happened upon smaller piazzas and churches. Our favorites were in Santo Spirito. Eventually, we turned right again to find the river. As long as you always know where the Arno is, you can’t really get too lost. Once back near the Ponte Vecchio, head east along the Oltrarno side until you see the city wall and the stairs to climb to Michelangelo piazza, for great city views, vendors, and of course, another church.

After this long walk, we spent the rest of the day letting the kids wander at will, looking around the shops near the Ponte Vecchio. In this area, you’ll find lots of osterias (wine bars), cheese and meat shops (most with generous sampling), and leather shops. There are also many vendors selling trinkets, puppets, wool scarves, and the like.

Day 3: San Lorenzo and Mercado Centrale

North of the Ponte Vecchio and Duomo, the Mercado Centrale is Florence’s foodie market, housed in a big warehouse building full of light and windows. Several stories tall, this market is very fun to peruse; if you have time, pick out picnic supplies for a lunch outside. Next to Mercado Centrale is the San Lorenzo market, which is an open-air market of leather goods. Each stall entices with the smell of leather and the rich, bright colors of Florentine belts, wallets, journals, and more. This is where to spend those euros on souvenirs.

Where to stay in Florence with kids:

While we were in Florence, I didn’t see a bad place to stay, but we loved our location, just on the Oltrarno side of the Ponte Vecchio. We rented an apartment from AirBnb, and had beds for five, plus a living space and kitchen and large bathroom for less than €100 per night. Our place was located just above a pottery shop, and was very peaceful and quiet while still only steps from the action. For a link to the exact apartment we rented, check out this post on renting AirBnb in Italy.

Where to eat:

Again, you can’t go wrong. We ate all over the city, but focused our attention on the Oltrarno. By Santo Spirito, we liked Borgo Antico, and right near the bridge, we loved Celestino, where the staff was especially warm and welcoming. By the Duomo, the Black Bar was our go-to place for gelato, and Osteria dei Pazzi was recommended to us for dinner. There’s also a grocery store by the bridge (one street into Oltrarno) with a nice cheese and meat counter and fresh pasta, for those with kitchens.

We only had one bad meal in Florence, right across from Pitti Palace at Bellini. Hopefully we just caught this restaurant on an off-night, but I’d skip it.

What’s your go-to activity in Florence?

Exploring Pompeii with kids

April 11, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

The ancient city of Pompeii, under the looming shadow of (what remains of) Mount Vesuvius, was not precisely as we imagined it. The layout, exhibits, and interpretive materials were not clearly marked, and it took some persistence to find what we were looking for (and even then, we missed things). It’s also most certainly a lengthy and expensive commute from Rome. All this said, we were glad we went. Here’s what to expect if you make the day trip:

From Naples, Pompeii is a short and simple metro/train ride away. It won’t, however, be a terribly pleasant one. We found that the local train system that connects the central train terminal in Naples to the outskirts (where you’ll find Pompeii) to be a bit grimy, even as far as metros go. Don’t expect a cushy journey, and do expect a lot of stops. However, it’s a straight line to the Pompeii Scavi stop (the second of two that are listed as Pompeii), and once deposited there, you’re directly in front of the ticket booth and entrance. In the Naples train station, head downstairs for their metro line, and buy tickets at the kiosk. At the time of our visit, metro tickets were €2,50 each (each way).

If you’re coming from Rome, as we were, you’ll first need to take the fast train from Rome’s Termini station, operated by TrenItalia. We took several journeys on this line, and both were very pleasant. The train is very fast, very comfortable, and yes, a bit expensive. You’ll want to book your tickets for this leg of the trip ahead of time. You can print these tickets at home (you’ll want it to show a bar code) or at the station, using one of the many TrenItalia kiosks. At the time of our visit, tickets for this leg of the flight were approximately €25 each.

Once at the Pompeii stop, you’ll see a line of food stalls, as well as a small cafe and vending machines. Pick up some water if you need some. Tickets for entry to the Pompeii ruins are just a few yards away, at the official ticketing booth. Don’t buy at the train station…this is a scam. There’s another entrance by Pompeii’s amphitheater, for those with tickets bought online. The ticket line is sometimes long, but it moves pretty fast. This is a good time to eat a quick snack.

There are also audio guides for 5 euros each. We picked these up, and while the audio program has some flaws, we still felt it to be money well-spent. First, the flaws: the locations where you can listen to information are numbered, but they’re pretty haphazard (don’t expect it to go numerically very often). Also, many descriptions instruct the user to ‘step inside’ to see certain artifacts or architecture, or to turn down this or that hallway. In reality, many of the dwellings in Pompeii are gated to the public. You can look in, but not step in (there are exceptions I’ll describe below). All this said, if you go with the flow and listen as you wish (and as you see numbers), you’ll learn a lot. We really liked the actual information presented. It was interesting to kids, too.

Once in the Pompeii ruins, visitors are left to their own devices to wander at will. This is both a blessing and a curse. It’s nice to have the freedom to explore on one’s own, in whatever direction desired, but it can also mean you’ll miss things. There are maps available, but they’re not terribly user-friendly. It’s best to enter and make your own path, listening as you go. Depending on which entrance you come through, you’ll either be near the basilica (meeting space) and forum by the main Porta Marina entrance, or by the amphitheater. Either way, here’s what not to miss:

Pompeii with kids:

In the amphitheater area, Piazza Anfiteatro,look through this entertainment space, then enter the wooden pyramid building that houses the molds of human remains, discovered by archaeologist Giuseppe Fiorelli in 1863. Keep in mind, these plaster ‘people’ are neither replicas or remains…Fiorelli made casts of the empty spaces they’d left behind, capturing their positions at time of death. It’s very sobering, and young kids may not be ready for it.

The Palestra Grande is nearby, as well as the domus of Marcus Lucrezius Fonto, both of which help tell the story of the daily lives of those who inhabited them and used them. The main street through Pompeii is probably the via dell’Abbondanza, which will link you with the forum side of the ruins. On this side, you’ll want to see the public bathhouses, the temples (what’s left of them) and basilica, and the simpler buildings that housed ‘cafeteria’ counters, sporting arenas, and more modest homes. In this area, we only had access to the bathhouses for interior entry.

It’s also very interesting to simply walk the streets. You can learn about the city’s water systems, traffic systems, and other public works by listening to the extra materials in the audio guide (you’ll be prompted to these after listening to numbered entries). Don’t skip these…they’re among the most interesting. You’ll see the indentions of chariot wheels in the stone streets, and learn about the ‘crosswalks’ of Pompeii. Certainly, the quality of life was generally high.

If you go:

Be sure to allow enough time. We had three hours, and it wasn’t enough. Grab a painfully early train from Rome if you’re making it a day trip, or go in summer when the ruins are open longer per day. While we were happy to do this in one day, we wished we had more time.
Pack a lunch if you can. The cafeteria onsite is overpriced and not very good (no huge surprise here), and the lines can get long, cutting into your time in the ruins. It’s permitted to picnic just about anywhere along the roads. There IS a size limit on day packs, but if you have a large bag with lunch, you can keep it at the bag check and retrieve it any time. While mildly inconvenient, I believe going back for it would take less time than we wasted in lunch lines.
Validate your metro tickets from Naples to Pompeii. You;ll see the green or yellow validation machines in the station.

Hours and pricing:

Tickets are €20 per adults at the time of our visit. Kids 18 and under are free. If you have tall teens like I do, have them bring an ID. We were asked at several locations in Italy to show ID for free admission. The hours are as follows:

1st April – 31st October: daily from 8.30 am to 7.30 pm (admission closes at 6 pm)
1st November – 31st March: daily from 8.30 am to 5 pm (admission closes at 3.30 pm)

Directions:

For the entrance to Porta Marina and Piazza Esedra:
Circumvesuviana Naples-Sorrento (Pompei Villa dei Misteri Stop)

For the entrance to Piazza Anfiteatro:
Circumvesuviana Naples-Poggiomarino (Pompei Santuario Stop)
FS (Italian railways) Naples – Salerno (Pompei Stop)

Have you been to Pompeii with kids? What was your favorite part?

Getting from Pisa to Florence with a side trip to the Leaning Tower of Pisa

March 28, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’re flying into Pisa’s airport and then getting from Pisa to Florence Italy, you have several options, all of which are pretty cheap and pretty fast. However, if you want to take advantage of your time in the town to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa, there’s really only one way to do it. Here’s how (and why it’s worth the time):

From Pisa International Airport (PSA), also called Galileo Galilei Airport, you’ll need to go to the bus ticket window/newsstand directly past the baggage claim, in the arrivals area. This booth can sell you bus fare for the Rossa (red) line, that goes from the airport to Pisa Centrale railway station, the city’s biggest train depot. It’s a five minute ride, and costs just a few euros, but from the rail station, the Rossa line continues through town, to the Leaning Tower.

Note: bus rides are FREE all morning in Pisa, with fare only needed after noon. During our visit, we started our bus ride in the morning, but returned in the afternoon, so we bought one-way fare. If your trip will be all in the afternoon, buy return bus fare from this booth as well.

Step outside with your tickets, and you’ll see the bus stop directly across the small parking lot (this is a small airport). Look for a red circle on the front of the bus. They are being literal when they say it’s the Rossa line.

Once on the bus, note the stop at Pisa Centrale, because you’ll want to get off here on your return from the tower, in order to get to Florence. But for now, stay on the bus. Unfortunately, we were given incorrect information on another website, and thought we needed to get off the Rossa line here and access the tower via the trains. Not so.

Stay on the bus another few stops, until you get to the Torre stop. There’s usually an outdoor market directly in front of the tower complex, called Piazza del Duomo, partially obscuring your view. We didn’t even see the tower the first time we got to this stop, and thought it was the wrong one! (We had all sorts of navigational issues this day!)

At Torre, get off the bus and walk through the marketplace to the gate to the tower and cathedral. You’ll clearly see it at this point. It’s free to walk around the base of the Leaning Tower and into the cathedral. A funny note: the tower began leaning during construction, but they kept on anyway!

You can buy tickets online to go inside the tower…you can even climb to the top and see the view from outside. We didn’t have time for this, as we were due in Florence at a certain hour, but if you budget a few hours at the piazza, I recommend going up the tower and into the cathedral. There’s a baptistry as well. Of course, you’ll also see plenty of vendors with booths of touristy souvenirs.

Once you’re ready to depart, take the same Rossa bus line back to Centrale. This bus line goes in a loop, so you can’t go wrong. Once at Centrale, go to the ticket sales window and ask for the first train to Florence. They typically run every hour or so, so we didn’t find any reason to book ahead of time. At the time of our visit, tickets were approximately €18 for adults and half that for kids. You’ll need to be at the correct platform for your train 10 minutes before departure.

Note: Be sure to validate your train ticket once you’re on the platform. You’ll see green validation machines. There’s a steep fine if you’re caught with an unvalidated ticket, though we never saw anyone checked during our trip.

The ride on TrenItalia to Florence took under an hour, and we were able to charge devices and access WiFi onboard. We took TrenItalia many times in Italy, and found it comfortable and convenient every time. We ate lunch on the train, finding several food options at a food court at the Centrale station.

The kids couldn’t help showing off their favorite train snacks!

Once in Florence, get off at the main station, Santa Maria Novella. Almost every point in the city center is walkable from this station, which is lovely! Enjoy Florence!

Worth noting: if you do NOT want to stop in Pisa to see the Leaning Tower, you can take either TrenItalia to Florence exactly as we did from Centrale, or you can buy cheaper bus tickets for buses that depart directly from the airport. We were even given the option of buying these tickets onboard our plane. They are approximately five euros each (one euro more if bought once you land), and by far the cheapest route to Florence. However, the bus takes longer and you miss out on Pisa.

Guide to surviving (I mean enjoying) the Vatican Museums with kids

March 25, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

You can’t go to Rome without seeing the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica, but make no mistake, the Vatican Museums are difficult to tackle, with or without kids. With over 2000 rooms and nine miles of art, these vast and imposing buildings within Vatican City are overwhelming on the best of days…on the worst, you’ll be wading through crowds that make Disney World on New Year’s Day look like a ghost town. During our most recent visit during the Christmas holidays, we often felt as though we were wading through a sea of humanity. Needless to say, this is not the best way to appreciate priceless art.

Guide to surviving (I mean enjoying) the Vatican Museums with kids:

Families should be prepared to deal with significant crowds, lines, and tired feet when visiting the Vatican Museums, but there are steps you can take to minimize these discomforts and enjoy the experience. The following are our five best tips for a day in the Vatican.

Get a guide.

Don’t even think about trying to navigate the Vatican Museums without one. While you can save money with a large group tour, I recommend a small group tour of ten people or fewer. It’s easier to stick with your guide in a small group, you can enter some of the smaller passageways and rooms that big groups skip, and the tour can cover more ground. We took this tour with Viator. With it, we skipped the line to buy tickets, which is absolutely essential when touring the Vatican Museums. We went through a very short security line, got our headsets so we could hear our guide on the tour, and we were off.

Our guide showed us the essentials; on a three hour tour, there isn’t time for more. But since we’re not art historians and were there for the biggies, like the Raphael rooms and Sistine Chapel, we were very satisfied with all we saw.

Plan to spend 3/4 of a day for a 1/2 day tour.

Plan plenty of time to arrive at the Vatican…it’s a large complex. For our Viator tour, we met with our guide at their tour office instead of at the entrance to the museums, so check your reservation carefully to know where to go. You also need to build in time to eat lunch after a morning tour, plus budget time to look through St. Peter’s Basilica if it’s not included in your tour. If you want to climb the dome, there is a separate line. It may be worthwhile to your group to do this, but I’d take a break and eat something between visiting the Vatican Museums and the dome.

Skip the gardens.

Someone will probably tell me I’m wrong about this (and if so, please do comment), but our tour guide advised that we could see the gardens from the patio/terrace of the museum, and it wasn’t necessary to get a tour there as well. We’re glad we used our time in other ways.

Dress correctly for St. Peter’s.

Remember that to enter St. Peter’s Basilica, you’ll need legs and shoulders covered. This means no shorts in the hot summer months. In winter, it’s easier to be wearing the right clothes, but in warmer months, you may need to make a note to wear long pants and take a scarf or light shirt to put on when needed.

Prepare kids ahead of time.

It really helps to prepare kids (and adults!) ahead of time with some information about the major works of art they’ll see. We looked at pictures of the Raphael rooms, some sculpture, and Michelangelo’s masterpiece before we left home, and learned a little bit about each piece. This way, when the kids actually saw these works of art, they meant something personal to them. Even with this preparation, there were moment of boredom as we went through room after room. I don’t blame the kids; after awhile the frescos start to look the same. Thanks to our guide, we were able to find differences between them and stories to go with them.

Lastly, don’t eat at the cafeteria directly down the street from St. Peter’s, below the square. We were very hungry after our tour and this place and a McDonalds were the first restaurants we saw. We decided the cafeteria must be better than McDonalds. We were wrong.

Yes, still smiling at the end of the tour. Mostly.

Pricing:

If you decide to tour the Vatican Museums on your own (don’t do this!), you’ll need to queue up early to get in. Tickets are €16 and €8 (adult and child). If you want to buy tickets online to avoid the queue, but not have a guide, it’s possible to buy tickets here.

What are your best Vatican tips?

Exploring Rome with kids: Overome Colosseum tour review

March 21, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Touring Rome’s Colosseum and Forum is always in the top three attractions for families. This center of ancient Roman history is a must-do, but also big, crowded, and complex. We were very glad we opted to see the Colosseum and Forum with a small group tour. If Rome is in your family travel plans, read on for our Overome Colosseum tour review.

We chose to see the Colosseum with Overome based on recommendations from other travel writers. I’d heard Overome’s tour guides work hard to make the content of the tour relevant to kids, are reliable and timely, and are knowledgable. We were steered right, because our guide Federica was all this and more.

Overome Colosseum tour review:

Overome’s Colosseum and Ancient City Tour starts at the Colosseum metro station, directly under the shadow of the great arena. We met Federica (Feddie) here; she was easy to spot with her Overome sign. Our group consisted of only our family of seven, plus three other guests. After brief introductions, we were off…and by off, I mean just across the street to the arena.

Note: I highly recommend booking small group tours instead of large ones. We saw many large groups walking through the sites, and it didn’t look fun to be in a herd.

The Overome tour includes all entrance tickets and fees, so we didn’t have to wait in the imposing ticket line. We did, of course, have to wait in the security line, but although it snaked halfway around the base of the Colosseum on the day we visited, it took less than twenty minutes to get through. During that time, Federica (Feddie) gave us an overview of the structure and its history. While we patiently moved up in the line, we heard other tour guides getting agitated with the wait, and their guests getting impatient. I knew right then, only minutes into our three hour tour, that we were in good hands with Feddie.

Once in the Colosseum, Feddie took us slowly from level to level, explaining how the arena was built and by whom, its architecture and design, and its uses over the years of its history. Even though the complex was crowded, it was easy to hear what she was saying because we were given earbuds and radios.

Everyone knows at least a little about this colosseum of gladiators, emperors, and prisoners, but we learned quite a few new tidbits, especially about the many exotic animals who entertained and died there, as well as specific stories about certain victims of the games.

Feddie used illustrations on an iPad to help explain her points, which really helped us visualize what she was describing. By no means were we looking at the screen all the time, but it was definitely a useful tool. This tour doesn’t take visitors down to the bottom floor of the Colosseum, be we did spend time on the upper levels with views of the labyrinth of rooms and levers and one-time elevators that made the Colosseum function in its heyday. We actually wished we had more time in the Colosseum when it was time to move on to the Forum.

The Forum is the section of the ancient city center for which I most wanted (and needed) a guide. Without one, it’s an expanse of half-ruined buildings and rubble. Even with a guidebook in-hand, it’s not done justice without someone knowledgable to explain it. I know, because the first time I visited the Forum ten years ago, I did it on my own. I learned far more with Feddie.

We started at the far end, where she pointed out major landmarks in the Forum and showed us more images on her iPad to give us an idea of what it once was. After we could visualize it, we could see how the remains of marble and stone had once been grand buildings and streets. She explained what each structure had been used for, including the House and Temple of Vestrals, Arch of Titus, and the alter with Julius Caesar’s ashes. We learned about the multiple ‘layers’ of the Forum, and for the first time, I could really see how much of the area had been buried in mud and soil for centuries at a time.

We spent more than an hour in the Forum, which left us with little time for Palatine Hill. We were given an overview, however, and when Feddie left us, we were still inside the complex, so we were free to explore it more on our own. Instead, we were worn out and hungry by this time, so we asked her for a lunch recommendation in the area. After leaving Feddie, we happily dined on pizza at nearby Pizza Forum.

Our Overome tour definitely confirmed my suspicion that we needed an expert to fully experience this part of the city. And we couldn’t have been happier with Feddie; it was clear she likes her job and knows her stuff.

Cost:

The Overome Colosseum and Ancient City tour is $52 per person, and I believe the value is definitely there. At the time of our visit, we departed from the metro station at 9 am, and were done by 12 pm.

As I disclose whenever applicable, our tour with Overome was complimentary, for the purpose of review. Without this type of hospitality, we would not be able to write personalized and up-to-date reviews.