Guide to Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks with kids

On a recent tour through several California National Parks, I heard the same thing over and over again from fellow guests and even park employees: “We love Yosemite, but we’ve actually never been to Kings Canyon.” Or, “We come to Yosemite annually, but haven’t experienced Sequoia, yet.” This tells me two things: Yosemite National Park is one of the most popular in the nation (no surprise there), and neighboring Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks will be vastly less congested nearly all year long. Are they worth visiting? Absolutely!

Park overview:

Sequoia and Kings Canyon are two distinct national parks with one planning site. They have separate entrances, though the same entry fee will get you into both. They sit side-by-side along the General’s Highway off Highway 198 (accessed from Fresno, California) and sit at impressively high elevation: between 6,000 and 8,000 feet for the most part.  We suggest at least two days in the parks in the off-season, and three in summer, with the majority of your time spent in Sequoia.

What to do:

Giant Forest: 

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Most of us come to Sequoia for the Giant Sequoia trees. And yes, they’re absolutely worth the trip. These towering giants reside in this region because of the ideal conditions: they cannot grow like this anywhere else in the world. Take the Big Trees Trail to walk amid these giants (you’ll find the hush of the forest soothing…unless you have restless kids with you!). The General Sherman Tree is the largest tree in the world. Bear in mind: the General Sherman is not the tallest tree in the world, but rather the biggest, measured in circumference around its trunk.  The nearby Giant Forest Museum is worth a stop (in the off-season, it opens at 10 am).

Moro Rock:

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Absolutely plan an hour or so at Moro Rock in the high season. This overlook includes a short but steep hike up the cliff-like rock, which will feel unsettling to anyone with fear of heights. I fall into that category, but had no problem with this short hike, because guard rails are set at key locations. There’s nothing to stop small children from wandering, however, so extreme attention is necessary. From the top of Moro Rock, the views are unparalleled. It’s possible to see the valley floor from one side of the viewing platform, and the peaks of the Sierras from the other. Point out the tops of the Giant Sequoias to kids: they look like bunches of broccoli from this height. Tip: after Moro Rock, continue a very short distance on the same road to drive through Tunnel Log and picnic in Crescent Meadow. Wolverton Snow Park is another nice resting stop in any season.

Crystal Cave:

I had no idea hundreds of caves lay under the surface of Sequoia National Park! The only cave available to tour is Crystal Cave, and it’s only accessible in summer. If you visit during the high season, this should be on your list.

sequoia-sightseeing-tour

Tip: Take a tour with Sequoia Sightseeing Tours with Paul Bischoff! Paul is a long-time resident of the area, and runs the best sightseeing tour I’ve taken from a private concessionaire in a national park. We spent a full morning with Paul, and learned more about the parks in a few hours than we ever could have guessed. Paul knows where the animals are, the best ways to avoid crowds, and can walk guests right to the most interesting trails and natural wonders.

Grant Grove of Giant Sequoias:

In Kings Canyon, the Grant Grove offers the General Grant Tree, plus a nice, easy hiking loop of additional Sequoias which includes some naturally downed trees. This is a great place for kids to see the root system of these giants, crawl through a fallen Sequoia log, and walk through a Sequoia tunnel! The Grant Grove Visitors Center is nearby as well, but we found it to be pretty limited.

Tip: While staying at Kings Canyon, catch the John Muir impersonation program by talented Frank Helling. Frank performs most Fridays at the Grant Grove evening campfire program during the summer months. I learned more about John Muir from Frank than I have before or since, and it was entertaining for all ages. Check at the Grant Grove Visitor Center to find out exactly when he’ll be performing during your summer visit.

giant-sequoias

Kings Canyon:

In summer, families can drive into the famed canyon, stopping for short hikes along the way. Kings Canyon is home to fabulous backcountry as well: if you plan to backpack in Kings Canyon or Sequoia, apply for a free backcountry permit. The good news: they’re far easier to get than Yosemite permits!

Tip: if you have the opportunity to listen to the storytelling of John Muir impersonator Frank Helling, make time to do this! Frank is absorbing and entertaining, and I learned more about John Muir in the 45 minutes I listened to him than I have before or since! Frank conducts his performances when available; as a park ranger or at the John Muir Lodge about opportunities to hear him speak.

Where to stay:

Kings Canyon offers the busiest ‘village’ of tent cabins, lodging, general stores, and visitors centers at Grant Grove Village. In the off-season, it’s quiet and we recommend the adjacent John Muir Lodge. However, in the height of summer, we’d opt for the less congested Wusachi Village of Sequoia National Park, where you’ll find Wusachi Lodge. This village center houses only the lodge and its restaurant (no adjacent camping and conveniences), which makes it somewhat quieter year-round. Read reviews of John Muir Lodge and Wusachi Lodge.

How to get here:

Access either park from Highway 198 from Fresno California. If you’re doing a loop of Sequoia and Kings Canyon as well as Yosemite National Park (called the Majestic Mountain Loop and highly recommended), you’ll need to depart Kings Canyon and return to the valley floor, then loop around to Yosemite via Highway 41. It’s not possible to drive over the Sierras, which is a good thing for all of us enjoying the parks!

Kings Canyon lodging pick: John Muir Lodge review

Kings Canyon National Park’s John Muir Lodge is located in the heart of the park’s Grant Grove Village. Bustling in summer with campgrounds and tent cabin units, the village is nearly empty in the off-season (any time between September and May). The lodge registration is located at the main complex with convenience store, gift shop, and the Grant Grove Restaurant (more on that soon) but the lodge itself is set back about a five-minute walk from the village center.

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The John Muir Lodge lobby is comfortable and spacious, with a big roaring fireplace, plenty of couches and tables with chairs, and complimentary wifi. Rooms are along the ground floor and second floor, with nice deck and patio space on the end of each hallway.

Rooms:

You won’t find a lot of frills here (though the lodge interior is scheduled for a facelift). Standard rooms like the one I experienced include two queen beds and room for a rollaway (sleeping a total of five). Deluxe rooms include one king bed and a pull-out couch to sleep a total of four. As stated, the rooms need some sprucing up, but are perfectly comfortable and adequate. I appreciated the iPod docking stations, allowing me to keep my USB cords packed for the night, and the wifi in the lobby proved fast and easy to connect to. Tip: I heard that some first floor rooms adjacent to the lobby have a wifi signal that will save you the trip to the lobby to connect.

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Dining:

As mentioned, there is a small convenience store in Grant Grove Village, but this is primarily for the campers in the summer months; guests at John Muir Lodge don’t have fridges or kitchenettes to do much meal preparation. The Grant Grove Restaurant is causal but upscale, and offers nice meals for families. Their breakfast features standards like egg and breakfast meal combos, omelets, and pancakes or French toast, and dinner fare includes a kids’ menu and wonderful local fish and grass-fed beef options. The included bread course at dinner is to die for: the new chef makes his assorted nut and fruit breads from scratch daily, and if you’re not careful, you’ll fill up on them!

Family-friendly package deal: the Junior Ranger Package will be available May 15 through September 1, and includes a one-night stay at Wuksachi or John Muir Lodge and a Junior Ranger vest, tee-shirt, hat, and compass. It encourages checking out the parks’ Junior Ranger programs, which introduce kids to what makes the national parks so special and how to become great environmental stewards. Most programs are free! At the end, each participant will earn a Junior Ranger badge. Rates start at $299 in spring and $365 in summer at Wuksachi and $249 in spring and $339 in summer at John Muir Lodge.

Tip: if you’re looking for a quieter, more upscale lodging experience, we recommend Wuksachi Lodge in adjacent Sequoia National Park.

Directions:

John Muir Lodge is centrally located and within easy driving distance to all points in Kings Canyon or Sequoia national parks. From Fresno, it’s an easy (though windy) drive up Highway 198 to the General’s Highway. Follow signs to Grant Grove Village.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my stay at John Muir Lodge and meals at Grant Grove Restaurant were complimentary, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.