Four days in the Canadian Rockies: Jasper and Banff National Park road trip

It’s very hard to plan a trip to the Canadian Rockies. Why? No matter how ambitious your itinerary, there’s always one more place to visit just a few kilometers down the road. But if you do have to scale your trip to under one week, here’s how to spend four days in and around Lake Louise and the Icefields Parkway, during a Jasper and Banff National Park road trip.

Jasper National Park

Start in Jasper:

The small town of Jasper is a gateway to outdoor adventure in every season. From late spring through early fall, hiking and lake visits reign, and in winter snowshoeing, skiing, and ice climbing can be found throughout the area. We visited in October and loved the beautiful scenery to low crowd ratio.

Maligne Canyon:
Head just a few minutes outside of Jasper on Highway 16 to Maligne Canyon. In winter, this is where you’ll see ice climbers navigating the frozen waterfalls, but in all other seasons, the flowing water of the Maligne River bubbles and falls over rocks and through gorges before disappearing underground (just to emerge again in blue pools). The trail loops with several options for return, allowing families to choose how long they hike. We hiked for approximately one hour and made it to five of six bridges that traverse the river.

The water is fast-flowing, but railings are in place to keep kids from getting too close. The incline can be steep and slippery at times, but the scenery is absolutely worth the effort.

Town of Jasper:
You don’t have to leave town to see wildlife and enjoy trails. Take the Discovery Trail through town, which includes interpretive signs throughout to teach about the history of the area. Look for elk strolling town in the early evenings and mornings; they often stop traffic! And when you’re back from your hike, stop for ice cream or shop for souvenirs or hiking gear in the easily-navigated 2-3 block downtown.

jasper

Where to stay:

The Tonquin Inn is located just a few blocks from downtown and has everything parents with kids need: a large indoor pool and hot tub, additional outdoor hot tubs, a comprehensive complimentary breakfast buffet, and comfortable rooms with scenic views.

Make the most of driving the Icefields Parkway:

The Icefields Parkways has been rated as one of the most scenic drives in the world, but that doesn’t mean you don’t need a pit stop for two. Break up the four-hour drive from Jasper to Banff with a stop midway along the Icefields Parkway. Located at the border between the two national parks, the Columbia Icefields Centre is hard to miss. Here’s what to expect:

glacier adventure

The Columbia Icefields Centre is where you can stop for a meal and clean bathrooms, plus a great view of the Athabasca Glacier. Kids (and parents) will immediately notice the ‘Ice Explorers’ navigating the glacier surface…and want to ride in one. This attraction at the Centre is Brewster’s Glacier Adventure, and tickets can be bought in the lower level. The tour takes you on a short bus shuttle to the edge of the glacier, where you transfer to specially-designed Ice Explorers (souped up ATV-bus hybrids, for lack of a better description). The Ice Explorers take you on a short but exciting drive out onto the ice, where they stop and let you get out and walk around in a very contained circle. Because the space where visitors can stand on the ice is so small (and feels much like a parking lot with multiple Ice Explorers parked), most kids will find the ride out the most exciting part. Guides do a very good job of educating you on the glacier in an entertaining way, but the actual ice walk can be a let-down.

Closer stops to Jasper include either the Athabasca or Sunwapta falls. Both scenic falls are located roadside, necessitating only a short walk to the view points. At Sunwapta, a restaurant and other roadside facilities make for welcome additions. Closer to Banff, Bow Lake is an easy stop, and can include swimming in summer and short hiking options.

Up next, continuing your road trip to Banff National Park! Click on the button below to continue.

banff-road-trip

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How to spend two days in Banff National Park, Alberta

Hopefully, you have more than two days to explore Banff National Park with kids, but if you are limited on time, here’s what you should do first.

Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies:

Whyte Museum is a great place to start. It may be small, but does an excellent job with both an art gallery and exhibits detailing the history of the park, starting with the First Nations’ presence and continuing through the establishment of the park and the role of the Canadian Pacific Railroad. When you enter, you first walk through the art gallery, which showcases Banff’s rich art history. An interesting section covers mountaineering and climbing in the park, as well as the practice of heli-skiing and backcountry winter exploration. The museum is fairly small, but you’ll still want at least 45 minutes to tour. Best of all, admission is by donation. Whyte Museum is located at 111 Bear Street.

whyte museum

Cave and Basin National Historic Site:

Cave and Basin marks the birthplace of Canadian national parks, with the discovery of a hot springs underground by railroad employees (of course, this cave was not a new discovery to First Nations’ tribes). Now, this hot springs is closed to swimming due to preservation of a species of snail, but visitors can learn about the history of the site and the creation of Parks Canada in exhibits in the former bathhouse changing rooms and see the site of the former pool. You can also walk through a tunnel to see the still-bubbling sulphuric water in the original cave, as well as view the outdoor basin where the water pools. Admission is affordable, and there are boardwalks adjacent for a short hike around the site. Plan to spend about 45 minutes, then head to Banff Upper Hot Springs, where you can swim in even warmer waters. Cave and Basin is located at 311 Cave Avenue.

Banff Upper Hot Springs:

The Upper Hot Springs features a large outdoor pool located at a historic Banff bathhouse (that now also houses a spa). The temperature of the water is a respectable 104 degrees (40 C), and admission is very affordable. We forgot a bathing suit, and found out traditional bathing costumes of the ’20s and ’30s can be rented for just $1.90…fun and a deal! You can also rent towels, and there are large, clean locker rooms for changing. If you want to stay awhile, there’s a cafe upstairs in the bathhouse, and hiking trails nearby. If the weather is clear, pair an afternoon at the hot springs with a ride up the gondola, located nearby. Banff Upper Hot Springs is located on Mountain Avenue.

Banff Upper Hot Springs

Surprise Corner:

So named for the surprise view of the beautiful Bow Valley and Banff Springs Hotel, this corner along Tunnel Mountain Road has a dedicated pull out and parking lot and observation deck. Take some photos and tell the kids about the role the hotel and the railroad had in Banff tourism (the hotel was built to lure rail passengers to the area). Look for wildlife here!

surprise corner

Hoodoos:

The Hoodoos feature geological formations similar to those found in Bryce Canyon in Utah, but more enticing is the amazing view of the Bow River and valley. Park and take the short walk to the viewpoint, bringing binoculars along; during our visit, we spotted elk grazing by the river bank far below. The loop hike starting from this location is a great option for wooded terrain and the chance to spot wildlife.

hoodoos Banff

Sulphur Mountain:

For a longer, more challenging hike that’s still close to town, the 11 km round-trip up Sulphur Mountain includes winding switchbacks for amazing views of the Bow River and valley. At the top, walk over to the Cosmic Ray Station (used to take meteorological readings) and take the gondola back down to save some distance.

Tunnel Mountain:

Tunnel Mountain is located near the heart of the town and takes families up a fairly steep but short hike to the top of–you guessed it–Tunnel Mountain. The distance is 4 km round trip. The main draw? The view of the town of Banff from the top. Due to use, you’re not likely to spot a lot of wildlife on the Tunnel Mountain trail, but it is guaranteed to give you a good lay of the land.

Lake Minnewanka:

During summer, Lake Minnewanka is the place to go for canoe rentals, a guided boat ride, or picnicking. During fall, it’s far less busy, and can get windy (ask to hear the First Nations’ legends surrounding this lake), but is a good place to spot big horn sheep, and, if you’re lucky, mountain goats. Take the short drive a bit further to Two Jack Lake for even more seclusion in the off-season.

Tip: If you have more time, booking a tour with Discover Banff Tours is a good way to get oriented and learn more about the park and its wildlife. The three-hour tour may be too lengthy for very young kids, but school-aged kids will enjoy the wildlife talks, and parents will get a feel for which destinations they’d like to revisit on their own time.

Wondering where to stay in Banff? Our Banff National Park hotel pick.

As I disclose whenever applicable, portions of our activities in Banff were hosted for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own.