Olympic National Park - Pitstops for Kids

Olympic National Park with kids

July 31, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Tucked away on Washington state’s Olympic Peninsula, Olympic National Park offers the best of not one, not two, but three worlds: temperate rain forest, ocean beaches, and mountain peaks await visitors to this unique park. No matter the season, families can escape metropolitan life in only a matter of several hours (approximately three from Portland and Seattle) and find themselves hiking between moss-covered Sitka spruce, beach-combing along wild coastline, and even skiing.

During a time when many vacations are not possible, national parks offer the ability to safely social distance, especially if families road trip to their destination. Hotels.com asked me to share my favorite activities and tips for exploring this Olympic National Park, so start here as you plan a safe and responsible vacation.

Park Overview: Olympic National Park is unique not only in its ecosystem, but in its geography; the majority of the interior of the park is free of roads (great for backpackers and wildlife, not so great for traveling families). In order to see the park, visitors must skirt the boundary on Highway 101, which is certainly scenic, but makes for quite a bit of car time. We suggest making a ‘home base’ on either end of the park, staying in Lake Quinault Lodge on the southern end or Port Angeles on the northern end. (If you have time, do both!) We chose the southern end for its rare rain forests, and saved the drive through the length of the park for another trip.

Where to stay: Lake Quinault Lodge sits on national park land just past the southern entrance to the park, its back porch and lawn leading straight to the shores of beautiful Lake Quinault. We love this lodge for its rustic yet elegant charm, kid-friendly features such as croquet sets, board games, and even an indoor pool, and proximity to incredible hiking in the Quinault Rain Forest (one of only three temperate rain forests in the world).

Other nearby accommodations include the park’s additional lodges, and hotel options along Highway 101 along the peninsula. The Log Cabin Resort on Lake Crescent is rustic but the most budget and kid-friendly, and Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort is where to go for a cozy getaway. Kalaloch Lodge is a no-frills lodge right on the ocean, and kids love it…just know that many times of the year, you’re not protected from wind and storms coming on off the Pacific.

What to do: Trust me, you won’t be bored! In the Quinault Rain Forest area, families can enjoy many day hikes under three miles in length that hold kids’ attention as they weave through jungle-like forests, follow ice-cold streams, and end in crashing waterfalls. Our favorites are the Maple Glade and Cascading Terraces trails, both starting right across the street from Lake Quinault Lodge at the ranger station.

Further north (back on Highway 101), kids will want to stop to explore any of the short, forested paths from the highway to the ocean near Kalaloch, all of which open out upon the wide, long-stretching beaches along this part of the coast. (Look for the huge, wind-blown trees barely hanging onto the ocean cliff-sides…their exposed roots make for great jungle gyms!)

From Kalaloch, continue north on Highway 101 to the turnoff for the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center (15 miles further on Upper Hoh Road). The center is only open seasonally, but families will find excellent picnic areas and self-guided hikes through some of the most dramatic rain forest yet! Check out the Hall of Mosses for a good taste of this terrain that even preschoolers can hike.

Extra Tip: for a good resource on all area hikes, click here!

A word on Twilight Territory: If you have a tween or teen in the car itching to see Cullen and Quileute country (or just admit it…it’s you, isn’t it?) the town of Forks is just 10 minutes further up Highway 101 from the turn-off to the Hoh Rain Forest. You’ll be tempted to make the detour, but trust us, it’s not worth it unless you’re heading in that direction anyway (or like cheesy souvenir shops and the like). If you’re not continuing further north but simply must make the trek (I understand, I really do), do the rest of your crew a favor and drop them off at scenic Ruby Beach, a national park site just past Kalaloch. The kids will have much more fun running on this beautiful beach, climbing its sea stacks, and playing in the creek that runs from forest to surf. And after you’ve driven through Forks, continue on to La Push’s First and Second beaches…they really are lovely.

Check out all we loved about Olympic National Park and Lake Quinault Lodge on the Pit Stops for Kids’ Kid Cam:

NOTE: As travel today remains uncertain, please keep your safety and the safety of others in mind at all times. If you are comfortable with traveling, please travel responsibly and within regulation as any travel is at your own risk.

If you do decide to travel at this time, here are our recommendations:

Wear a face mask.
Bring hand sanitizer and wash your hands on a regular basis.
Check official websites before your trip for the latest updates on policies, closures and status of local businesses.
Book a hotel with free cancellation in case you need to change your plans at the last minute.

No rain dance required: three soggy days on the Olympic Peninsula

March 13, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

According to the middle-aged waitress in Hoquiam, Washington’s only coffee shop, it had already been raining on the Olympic Peninsula for two days straight when we drove through en route to nearby Lake Quinault Lodge. And the forecast was not promising to get any better.

“Can’t imagine why you’re visiting in March,” she observed, pouring my coffee into a brown ceramic mug.

“It’ll still be raining in July,” I shrugged.

Her answering ‘humph’ came with a nod of agreement, though I’m sure she still thought we were crazy to be here. The truth was, not one of us cared an iota about the rain. We had our rain jackets. We had gloves. We had wool hats and waterproof hiking boots. We weren’t here for a sun tan.

One might argue that no three days can be perfect while traveling with kids, but while on the Olympic Peninsula, you simply have to find something other than storm clouds to blame. Unruly children, perhaps. Traffic out of the city. The near-constant drizzle is as much a part of the package as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris, or red rock is to the Grand Canyon. You can’t have the lush beauty of this temperate rain forest without the rain.

Lake Quinault Lodge certainly doesn’t take notice of the weather. It sits stoically no matter the season, quietly waiting it out. When we arrived, it was with a mad dash into the sanctuary of the wood-beamed lobby, where a fire crackled and thick rugs graced the floor. The kids began a game of chess by the fireplace while we checked in, then ran to the back porch, where they had to crane their necks upward to check the rain-guage. Already 52 inches this year. In our lake-view room, we donned swim suits (yes, really!) over which we zipped rain jackets. With hoods drawn, we dashed across the wide lawn to the pool house, where we pushed open the door to a wall of steam and the smell of cedar.

It’s hard to tell where Lake Quinault Lodge’s indoor pool ends and its spacious sauna begins. All you really know is that you’re warm, the high interior windows are fogged over, and the sound of your children’s laugher is echoing back at you from everywhere at once.

We dined on cedar-planked salmon and lake trout that night in the lodge’s historic Roosevelt Dining Room, where the kids sipped from their water glasses with pinkies out, cloth napkins safely on laps. They dared each other to try the ‘banana slug ice cream’ for dessert, laughing with relief to find it to be banana-flavored.

The next morning, we hiked under the rain forest canopy of national forest trails with the feeling of cotton balls in our ears: the steady pattering of the rain falling on the leaves muted the kids’ cries of delight, the occasional dog bark, and the hellos of passing hikers. As the kids ducked under ferns and climbed moss-covered nurse logs, the raincoats came off. Under the trees, we were sheltered completely as our tread found footing on the pliant forest floor.

Lunch was an impromptu picnic in our room, after which we looked up, startled, at the slant of sunlight cast across our floor. Yes, the clouds do part at Lake Quinault, if only temporarily. And when they did for us, we had to catch our breath. From the spacious deck of the lodge, the lake spanned wide and blue, each white cap winking in the rare sunlight as if amused to reveal herself to us. We wasted no time piling into the car for the short into Olympic National Park for an afternoon of beach combing. As we navigated windy Highway 101, signage for ocean beaches sported native Quileute and Hoh names that tangled on the tongue. We taught them to the kids as we drove, but their eyes were out the window, waiting to catch a glimpse of sand and sea.

We stopped at Kalaloch, where the root systems of giant trees clung, exposed, against sandy bluffs, the wind whipped, and driftwood sat piled, begging to be pressed into service as walls of beach forts. If Lake Quinault Lodge looks tranquil in the face of the rain, the lodge at Kalaloch appears hunkered down, battered and brutalized by direct exposure of salt and sea. We note the location for future ocean storm watching.

That night, we fell asleep to the pounding of rain on the Lake Quinault Lodge roof, and woke to brief dazzling sunshine which was replaced by long shadows across the dining room floor before we’d finished our granola and berries. We hit the forest trails under dark cloud, and back under the canopy, it was hard to say then they burst open. The forest floor absorbed moisture like a sponge. The rain fell steadily for two days more, as promised, and by the time we checked out, our room smelled of dank cotton and nylon from the clothing we’d spread out near the heater to dry. On our way back through town, we waved to our friendly waitress in tribute as we passed the diner, the last of our wet clothing piled in a ball in the back of the van.

Lake Quinault Lodge, Olympic National Park

April 3, 2011 By Amy Hagstrom

Built in 1926 on the south shore of Lake Quinault on the lush and beautiful Olympic Peninsula, Lake Quinault Lodge is one of the national park system’s most beautiful and timeless historic lodges. Charming when approached from the street (South Shore Road), Lake Quinault’s best side is to the north, where the back of the lodge opens upon a cheery deck and lush, sloping lawn to the lake shore.

Stepping through the front doors, visitors are greeted by a cheery fire in the lobby fireplace, plush leather sofas, bookcases and carefully arranged tables, and floor-to-ceiling windows looking out to the lake. Though certainly tranquil, the lodge is family-friendly; just downstairs from the lobby resides a full game room complete with ping-pong and pool tables, a few arcade games (requiring quarters), and a surprisingly large heated indoor pool. Croquet sets can be rented for the lawn, and in summer, canoes are available to lodge guests. Our kids spent a fair amount of time playing on the large lawn, and exploring the lake shore.

Lake Quinault is definitely a destination lodge and makes for a great ‘base camp’ while visiting Olympic National Park (home of one of only three temperate rain forests in the world); located just inside the park boundary, a network of hiking trails lead into the forest from directly across the street, many of which are perfect for families. Ask the lodge dining room to pack a picnic lunch for you and make a day of it, or hop in the car to explore more of the park’s varied terrain (the beaches at Kalaloch are 30 minutes north on Highway 101, and further, the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center provides more hiking opportunities). Lake Quinault also offers a selection of rain forest tours year round; ask at the front desk!

Extra Tip: Spring is a great time of year to experience Olympic National Park! Crowds are low, deals abound, and since you can plan on rain fall year round, weather is not an issue!

Date last visited: March 2011

Distance from the interstate: Lake Quinault Lodge is just under two hours from I-5 at Centralia, WA (three hours from Seattle or 3.5 hours from Portland).

Room Rates: Lake Quinault offers several room categories, from traditional lodge rooms featuring either one king bed or two queen beds (starting at $95 at time of publication), to Fireplace Rooms and Boathouse Rooms. Families may prefer a more contemporary Lakeside Room, located in a separate building adjacent to the main lodge and sleeping up to six (starting at $130).

Dining options: The main dining room at Lake Quinault, The Roosevelt Room, is what we’d call kid-friendly while still requiring best behavior. The ambiance is lovely, and the food is good, but it’s special-occasion status: dinner for our family of five, without beverages, came to $100. Where the lodge really shines is breakfast: our kids couldn’t wait to order their house-made hot chocolate with whipped cream and chocolate drizzle each morning, and the sweet potato pancakes got me out of bed quickly, as well. For a more casual dinner, we recommend The Salmon House Restaurant, located one mile further down South Shore Road at the Rain Forest Resort Village. The views of the lake are just as majestic, the service is friendly, and the prices are more reasonable for feeding a hungry family.

Directions: From I-5 North or South, take exit 104 at Olympia (Aberdeen-Ocean Beaches) and head straight west to Aberdeen-Hoquiam. From Hoquiam, go north on U.S. 101 for 40 miles to milepost 125. Turn right on South Shore Road and go two miles to Lake Quinault Lodge.

As I disclose with all compensated reviews, Lake Quinault Lodge hosted our stay in part, providing our family with a media room rate and some meals. While we greatly appreciate Lake Quinault’s hospitality, this compensation came with no expectation of a positive review.