Exploring Port Townsend with kids

November 7, 2014 By

Located at the very tip of Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula, Port Townsend has a lot to offer families. From the quaint waterfront town with its lively history to a storied military presence, exploring Port Townsend with kids includes hiking trails, fort batteries, ice cream shops, and touch tanks! Here’s what’s in store (and where to stay):

port-townsend

Downtown Port Townsend:

It’s easy to see the charm of this small town as soon as you enter, whether via road from elsewhere on the peninsula or by boat (more on that later). The shipyards are open to the public, which means boat-loving kids can see dry-docked vessels up close and personal, and Union Wharf offers great views of the ferry.

Start on Water Street, where kids will want to view the wooden boat outside the NW Maritime Center, then head across the street to City Hall Museum run by the Jefferson County Historical Society. We would have overlooked this museum had I not been taken there by a local: inside the historic courtroom, visitors can get an overview of the town’s history, then go downstairs to see old jail cells (Jack London is rumored to have spent a night inside) and exhibits on the region’s pioneering, Japanese, and native cultures.

port-townsend-history

 

Right nearby is Dogs-a-Foot, a hot dog stand with every type of hot dog desired. It’s a perfect lunch pit stop, with tables outside. Afterward, continue your stroll down Water Street for a stop at Elevated Ice Cream. This locally-owned and operated ice cream shop offers unique, locally-sourced flavors, and has a chocolate shop and candy store located next door.

Stop into any other shops that interest you; you’ll find a great local bookstore and numerous galleries. Note the historic architecture; Port Townsend has some of the best preserved buildings in the NW. If you have your car with you, don’t forget about ‘uptown’: historic Port Townsend built on both the wharf and in the hills, and families will find the best Victorian architecture overlooking the downtown region. This area features a lot of the town’s B&Bs, but you’ll also find wonderful bakeries, diners, and shops.

elevated-creamery

Note: If you’re in the downtown/shipyard area for breakfast, you’ll want to head to the Blue Moose Cafe on Haines for an authentic home-cooked meal. This local hangout is right in the shipyards, and has been overseen by the current cook (not chef!) for decades.

Fort Worden State Park:

fort-worden

We’re pretty sure Fort Worden State Park is the heart of Port Townsend as far as kids are concerned. This sprawling park is located just outside of downtown on the coast, with beach access, hiking trails, and picnic grounds. The central feature of Fort Worden is the fort, which served as defense against invasion during WWI. The invasion never came, but the many fort batteries remain, with platforms for artillery, ammunition storage rooms, and many more intriguing spaces for kids to explore. The batteries are open to the public, which is a very welcome feature in a world that has increasingly shut doors on historical sites. Kids will love climbing on them, running through their creepy, dark tunnels and hallways, and generally playing soldier. Parental supervision is absolutely needed, of course; small children could fall or get lost. Don’t worry, you’ll want to explore the batteries just as much! Prepare to spend hours here!

marine-science-center

In addition to the batteries, Fort Worden is home to the Marine Science Center, located right on Battery Way. It’s open from April through October, with innovative saltwater touch tanks. The center staff bring sea life into the tanks in the spring, and release all the creatures in the fall. Daily, fresh salt water from the ocean adjacent is flushed into the tanks. Kids can touch many marine animals, and see more in additional aquariums. Across the street, the education building houses a whale skeleton and other educational exhibits with a conservation theme.

marine-conservation

There are numerous walking trails through Fort Worden (grab a trail map when you enter) and some take kids to additional batteries (less crowded than the one near the beach). There are several campgrounds, and yes, the beach has swimming access. The Point Wilson lighthouse makes for a great backdrop to your Olympic Peninsula beach day!

Inland from the beach, the campus of Fort Worden remains, though quieter than in its active days. Currently, buildings and rooms can be rented for vacation stays, allowing families to further immerse themselves in the area’s history.

Yes, you can stay the night in Fort Worden!

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Rentals include full homes on Officers’ Row, units in the Non-Commissioned Officers’ Row, or dormitory rooms. I checked out an Officer’s Row house, where I stayed the night overlooking the campus and ocean. Officers’ Row houses include 1 and 1/2 bathrooms, four bedrooms, a parlor and a dining room, and a full kitchen. It’s fun to see firsthand how officers and their families lived during WWI. These houses are not newly renovated, but are comfortable and very spacious. Kids can play outside, and everyone can walk to the beach, the light house, and the batteries. There is no wifi, but in the check-in building (which is newer), there is a sitting room and a coffee counter where your java and wifi needs can be met.

fort-worden

Beyond Port Townsend proper, the Olympic Discovery Trail weaves 120 miles between the town and La Push, on the western coast, and of course, the rest of the Olympic Peninsula beckons with Olympic National Park and numerous additional hiking trails and beaches. Read more about Olympic National Park with kids!

How to get here:

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Port Townsend and Fort Worden are located on Highway 20, which connects with Highway 101. Families can also take Washington State ferries directly to town from Whidbey Island (Coupeville) or take the Puget Sound Express from the San Juan Islands. We recommend booking a whale watching trip with this company, even if you don’t need them for transportation to the peninsula. On our trip with Puget Sound Express, we saw humpback whales, porpoises, and harbor seals.

Port Townsend

No rain dance required: three soggy days on the Olympic Peninsula

March 13, 2013 By

According to the middle-aged waitress in Hoquiam, Washington’s only coffee shop, it had already been raining on the Olympic Peninsula for two days straight when we drove through en route to nearby Lake Quinault Lodge. And the forecast was not promising to get any better.

“Can’t imagine why you’re visiting in March,” she observed, pouring my coffee into a brown ceramic mug.

“It’ll still be raining in July,” I shrugged.

Her answering ‘humph’ came with a nod of agreement, though I’m sure she still thought we were crazy to be here. The truth was, not one of us cared an iota about the rain. We had our rain jackets. We had gloves. We had wool hats and waterproof hiking boots. We weren’t here for a sun tan.

One might argue that no three days can be perfect while traveling with kids, but while on the Olympic Peninsula, you simply have to find something other than storm clouds to blame. Unruly children, perhaps. Traffic out of the city. The near-constant drizzle is as much a part of the package as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris, or red rock is to the Grand Canyon. You can’t have the lush beauty of this temperate rain forest without the rain.

Lake Quinault

Lake Quinault Lodge certainly doesn’t take notice of the weather. It sits stoically no matter the season, quietly waiting it out. When we arrived, it was with a mad dash into the sanctuary of the wood-beamed lobby, where a fire crackled and thick rugs graced the floor. The kids began a game of chess by the fireplace while we checked in, then ran to the back porch, where they had to crane their necks upward to check the rain-guage. Already 52 inches this year. In our lake-view room, we donned swim suits (yes, really!) over which we zipped rain jackets. With hoods drawn, we dashed across the wide lawn to the pool house, where we pushed open the door to a wall of steam and the smell of cedar.

It’s hard to tell where Lake Quinault Lodge’s indoor pool ends and its spacious sauna begins. All you really know is that you’re warm, the high interior windows are fogged over, and the sound of your children’s laugher is echoing back at you from everywhere at once.

We dined on cedar-planked salmon and lake trout that night in the lodge’s historic Roosevelt Dining Room, where the kids sipped from their water glasses with pinkies out, cloth napkins safely on laps. They dared each other to try the ‘banana slug ice cream’ for dessert, laughing with relief to find it to be banana-flavored.

The next morning, we hiked under the rain forest canopy of national forest trails with the feeling of cotton balls in our ears: the steady pattering of the rain falling on the leaves muted the kids’ cries of delight, the occasional dog bark, and the hellos of passing hikers. As the kids ducked under ferns and climbed moss-covered nurse logs, the raincoats came off. Under the trees, we were sheltered completely as our tread found footing on the pliant forest floor.

cascade falls lake Quinault

Lunch was an impromptu picnic in our room, after which we looked up, startled, at the slant of sunlight cast across our floor. Yes, the clouds do part at Lake Quinault, if only temporarily. And when they did for us, we had to catch our breath. From the spacious deck of the lodge, the lake spanned wide and blue, each white cap winking in the rare sunlight as if amused to reveal herself to us. We wasted no time piling into the car for the short into Olympic National Park for an afternoon of beach combing. As we navigated windy Highway 101, signage for ocean beaches sported native Quileute and Hoh names that tangled on the tongue. We taught them to the kids as we drove, but their eyes were out the window, waiting to catch a glimpse of sand and sea.

We stopped at Kalaloch, where the root systems of giant trees clung, exposed, against sandy bluffs, the wind whipped, and driftwood sat piled, begging to be pressed into service as walls of beach forts. If Lake Quinault Lodge looks tranquil in the face of the rain, the lodge at Kalaloch appears hunkered down, battered and brutalized by direct exposure of salt and sea. We note the location for future ocean storm watching.

Olympic National Park

That night, we fell asleep to the pounding of rain on the Lake Quinault Lodge roof, and woke to brief dazzling sunshine which was replaced by long shadows across the dining room floor before we’d finished our granola and berries. We hit the forest trails under dark cloud, and back under the canopy, it was hard to say then they burst open. The forest floor absorbed moisture like a sponge. The rain fell steadily for two days more, as promised, and by the time we checked out, our room smelled of dank cotton and nylon from the clothing we’d spread out near the heater to dry. On our way back through town, we waved to our friendly waitress in tribute as we passed the diner, the last of our wet clothing piled in a ball in the back of the van.