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Guide to Machu Picchu and Sacred Valley Peru

October 17, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

We traveled through Peru with Vantage Adventures, which I highly recommend. However, this guide is designed to be useful to you whether you’re traveling with Vantage, another tour company, or on your own.

The Sacred Valley of Peru is a stunning region of high mountain plains dotted with quinoa, wheat, and Incan corn, impossibly high peaks covered in glaciers, and valleys nestled with medium to small-sized towns. This is the gateway to Machu Picchu, a lower valley of almost tropical rainforest and glacier-carved mountains. This is truly the land of ‘Pachamama’…the Peruvian term for ‘mother earth’.

Guide to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley:

Machu Picchu is undoubtedly the best known Incan site, but the Sacred Valley is filled with them. You’ll want to spend at least three days in this region: two at Machu Picchu and at least one full day and night in the Sacred Valley. Here’s how to go about it:

From Cusco, drive the 1.5-2 hours into the Sacred Valley, and tour the historic ruins at Ollantaytambo (Ollanta for short). This is where you’ll catch your train to Machu Picchu, by the way. But for now, these ruins are a great second to the Saqsayhuaman ruins you probably already saw in Cusco. Built on the mountainside, the Ollanta ruins have three main parts: a hillside granary area that can be explored by sturdy hikers, a sun temple area that can be accessed by about 200 stone steps (definitely worth it), and an Incan town at the base. In the town area, you can see the Inca village’s temple to water (with spring water flowing through it to this day), their irrigation/water system cut into the stone, their family dwellings, and their marketplace. Above, you can see their sun temple and terraces, where they grew crops in the mountainside.

Allow at least three hours to tour it all (and longer if you want to hike to the granary), plus some time in the modern village, which is filled with street hawkers, tourist shops, and the like. This is a busy, lively place, and worth exploring for a bit. You can also visit the salt flats nearby, and other ruins such as Moray, accessible by the Boleto Touristico del Cusco, which has multiple site entry available for one entry fee of 130 soles.

Stay in the Ollanta area; I recommend the luxury oasis of Casa Andina Sacred Valley, if only for the lovely grounds with gardens, hammocks, and a kids’ playground. You’ll want somewhere to unwind after all the bustle of the cities.

Note: If you tour Peru with Vantage Adventures as I did, you’ll send even more time in the Sacred Valley, going places solo tourists cannot, such as a weaving co-op and local school. This type of access is one reason I do recommend Vantage.

On your second day in the Sacred Valley, take the Inca Train from Ollanta to the town of Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). The ride takes about 1.5 hours, and if you book the Vista Dome train, you’ll get stunning views the whole way. The train experience is very upscale in Vista Dome: you’ll be served a ’snack’ that’s large enough to be considered lunch, plus soft drinks, water, or coffee. The seats are comfortable, situated around a table. Note: Book the Inca Train at least six months in advance.

We recommend taking the train around 10 am, arriving at Aguas Calientes around noon. From there, check into your hotel (again, I recommend the Casa Andina option, which is the Casa Adina Machu Picchu), and take the 20 minute bus ride from the town to Machu Picchu. The line for the buses (and therefore the number of people at Machu Picchu) peaks in the early morning (from about 5 am to 7 am), so if you time your visit for mid-day, you’ll have a shorter line and arrive at the site as the early-birds are departing. By timing it this way, we toured Machu Picchu without any crowds at all, staying until closing time at 5 pm.

Absolutely, definitely, without a doubt get a guide for Machu Picchu. This site is absolutely huge, and there is so much to learn. Spend this day taking photos, learning about the site, and enjoying exploring the area. Then, return for a second day at Machu Picchu to do some hiking. (More on that in a minute.)

In the evening, you’ll find the town to be bustling and fun, with a blend of locals and many, many tourists and backpackers finishing the famed Inca Trail. There’s great shopping, and wonderful restaurants, In fact, the best meal we had our entire stay in Peru was at Indio Feliz, where a French expat and his Peruvian wife cook amazing meals. Take time to explore the town…it doesn’t close up early in the evening. Look for souvenirs at the big market by the train station; I noted that jewelry in the established stores were the same price as at the market.

On your second day in Machu Picchu, plan to do some hiking. Take the bus ride back up, and either hike the challenging Wina Picchu (mountain facing the ruins), or hike a few miles of the Inca Trail to the Sun Gate overlooking Machu Picchu. I recommend the latter for families who want a tough but short hike (it’s one mile up, one back) with stunning views. To do the even harder Wina Picchu, you need a hiking permit (get it six months in advance) and an early start (line up for the bus around 4 am). This hike is not for kids or anyone afraid of heights; I only recommend it to teens and adults who hike difficult terrain regularly. Consult a guide before attempting.

The reason for allowing two days in Machu Picchu, even if you don’t care about hiking, is twofold: first, there are times when traveling to the Sacred Valley is inhibited. During our trip, a farmers’ strike closed the main roads into the valley from Cusco, stranding many would-be tourists of Machu Picchu. For those who had planned only one day for the site, they missed out entirely on the number one attraction in Peru. Secondly, Machu Picchu is often shrouded in fog. Going for two days betters your odds for getting a nice day. If you plan two days and then end up only wanting to visit during one, you can find plenty of shopping and exploring in Aquas Calientes.

Tips for touring Machu Picchu:

Get Inca Rail train tickets 6 months ahead.
Get Wina Picchu permit 4 months ahead. Buy Machu Picchu tickets ahead of time as well, to save time at the gate.
If you plan to hike the entire Inca Trail, get permits ahead, and know that guides are required for the 4-day hike.
Try not to look down when taking the 20 minute bus ride from Aquas Calientes to Machu Picchu…it’s quite the ride up the mountainside!

While not as high in elevation as Cusco, Machu Picchu is at around 9,000 feet. Take precautions for altitude sickness.
Bring a packed lunch to Machu Picchu. There’s no where within the site to buy food; you won’t want to leave and come back in.
Get your passport stamped at the station by the buses, just for fun.

You WILL NEED your passport at Machu Picchu. I have no idea why, but you have to show it at the turnstile, as well as at the bus.
Bring mosquito repellent, and double your protection with long sleeves and long pants. The high Andean mosquitoes are not the virus-carrying kind, but they do bite like crazy.
Dress in layers: while you’re relatively close to the equator, you’re also at around 8,000 feet elevation. The weather changes often!

Where to stay in Peru: Casa Andina hotel review

September 28, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

In a country like Peru, it can feel daunting to know which hotels to book for a family vacation. Undoubtedly, you want a place to stay that’s clean, safe, reliable, and friendly. Being close to attractions is nice, too. During my stay in Peru with Vantage Adventures, we stayed in Casa Andina hotels at every stop, and by the end of our trip, seeing each Casa Andina was a welcome sight.

This Peruvian hotel brand is nothing like the cookie-cutter hotel chains you may be picturing. Each property is unique to the region or city in which it’s located, and all have their own flavor. The only thing I found the same at each Casa Andina was the exceptional service and the clean, modern hotel rooms.

There are two types of Casa Andina: ‘Classic’ and ‘Private Collection’. The Classic Casa Andina hotels cost approximately $130 per night, and feature basic but comfortable lobbies, a basic but good included breakfast, and WiFi in your room for about 35 soles a night ($7). You’d think that because Classic hotels are lower in cost, they’d be located outside of desired areas, but in Cusco and Machu Picchu, I found Classics to be right in the heart of things, in ideal locations.

Private Collection Casa Andina hotels feature everything that the Classics do, but with upgrades to the rooms, to the service (though I must say I had great service at every Casa Andina) and to the grounds. You get a bigger, more impressive breakfast buffet included, and most Private Collection hotels also have an on-site restaurant for additional meals. Room rates are around $400 per night.

I stayed in four Casa Andina hotels in Peru: two Classic and two Private Collection. Here are my thoughts:

Casa Andina Cusco Cathedral:

This Casa Andina Classic is located adjacent to Plaza de Armes in Cusco. The location truly could not be better. From my room on the second level, I could look out over the street and see the dome of the cathedral. I had a very spacious room, though it was a corner room, with two big windows, a bathroom with a shower, and a flatscreen TV (and the aforementioned WiFi). Other travelers told me the rooms not facing the street were smaller, but quieter.

Downstairs, the lobby was small but pretty, with a doorman and coca tea on a refreshment stand at all times. The breakfast buffet was simple (think eggs, yogurt, juice, bread, toast, jam, and coffee), and there was no coffee service in the room. Personally, I loved this hotel, and would absolutely stay there again, mostly due to it’s perfect location.

Casa Andina Private Collection Cusco:

The Casa Andina Cusco is also located in Cusco (obviously), and is a Private Collection option in the historic center. It’s location is arguably just as good as the Classic hotel’s location. What makes this hotel unique is its historical significance. Originally a colonial mansion from the Spanish rule era, the hotel is a delightful maze of adobe-walled rooms with thick tile floor, interior courtyards with fountains and gardens open to the sky, and an elegant restaurant with original Renaissance era paintings. All this is in the heart of bustling Cusco, but is remarkably quiet.

Because the hotel is historic, rooms are smaller than most for the Private Collection, and some have only interior courtyard windows (instead of windows to the outside). However, I found the privilege of sleeping in a mansion to be a fair tradeoff. Instead of a large lobby, the Cusco has a warm, welcoming reception room with fireplace, as well as one of the city’s best bars. Its largest courtyard features tables and chairs around a pretty fountain. Adjacent, the hotel restaurant serves a breakfast buffet with made-to-order omelettes (ask your waiter) and both hot and cold choices that are authentically Peruvian (as well as some staples like cereal, fruit, and bread).

The staff was welcoming and warm from the general manager to the cleaning staff, and I felt safe and cared for completely.

Casa Andina Machu Picchu:

This Classic Casa Andina is located right down the stairs from the train station in Aquas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). On one side of this five story hotel is the Urubamba River, and on the other, the Inca Rail tracks. Despite this somewhat lively location, it was not loud, surprisingly. The lobby was basic (like other Classics) but warm and welcoming, and I enjoyed all the amenities I’d found in the other Classic I visited. My room was large, with a shower and bath and a flatscreen TV, and I had a great view of the river.

The breakfast buffet was similar to the other Classic, and located in a dining area at the basement level. From this Casa Andina, I was able to easily walk everywhere in the town, and could be at the bus stop for Machu Picchu in under two minutes.

Casa Andina Sacred Valley:

Probably the most visually appealing of all the Casa Andina hotels I visited, the Sacred Valley Private Collection location was a welcome sight after a long drive from Cusco. Located in Ollyanta within a ten minute drive to the Inca Train station, Casa Andina Sacred Valley is a beautiful resort nestled on a big property of lawns, gardens, and even a children’s playground. Truly an oasis in the valley, this property is the one you want to return to after a day of sight-seeing in and around the busy but sometimes overwhelming towns of the valley.

My room was spacious, with a flatscreen and wide window to the stunning natural scenery of the mountains and the gardens of the hotel. The Casa Andina Sacred Valley is made up of several buildings housing the rooms, so the walk outdoors to the lobby/reception area and the dining room and breakfast area is a welcome chance to take a peek at what the day has in store. Everything is secure, quiet, and peaceful. There’s a spa on premises, as well as inviting hammocks on the lawn.

No matter which Casa Andina you choose, I feel confident you can count on consistent service and standards. Read more about planning a family trip to Peru! Learn more about booking your own trip.

Where to stay in Peru: reviews of Casa Andina hotels

As I disclose when applicable, I was hosted by Casa Andina for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

Visiting Peru with Vantage Adventures

September 26, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

While visiting Peru, I saw all the bucket-list sites I planned to see: Machu Picchu, the Incan towns of the Sacred Valley, and beautiful Cusco. I hiked, I took hundreds of photos, and I took in the colorful marketplaces Peru is known for. But in addition, I saw and experienced things I had no way of knowing I wanted—perhaps even needed—to see and do.

I met jewelers at Arte Magico employing skilled workers from outside the city, a spiritual healer of the Incan people, weavers from the traditional town of Chinchero, boys from the squatter neighborhoods on the hillsides who work at the public cemetery outside school hours to help provide for their family, and school children and teachers from the isolated highlands. I tasted the traditional food and drinks of Peru: chicha, cuy, quinoa soup, chicha morada, and pisco sour. I was invited into a family’s home, and was able to talk with locals about the issues that matter to them: their work, their families, and their politics.

I was able to do all this because I was traveling with Vantage Adventures. Vantage is an established luxury small group travel company known for its European river cruises and five-star travel experiences, and in their new division of Vantage Adventures, they’re adding active, outdoor and adventure elements while retaining the type of rich cultural interactions I described above. I’ve traveled with several small group tour companies in places ranging from Alaska to the Dominican Republic, and none have offered the depth of immersion into a country as Vantage (though some have come close).

The Vantage Difference:

So how does Vantage do all this? There’s a magical ingredient in Vantage Adventures’ itineraries I’m going to call the Vantage Difference. In our itinerary of Peru, our Vantage Adventure Leader (head guide) Enrique went one step deeper into every stop.

When we were at Machu Picchu, he knew the history and archeological facts as well or better than any guide in the country. In Cusco (his hometown), he could show us the shops, restaurants, and ‘secret’ alleyways and side streets no one could have found on their own.

While touring the city’s impressive cathedrals, he shared the story of his own family’s Catholicism as it related to his Andean heritage. When sampling local foods and drinks, he gave anecdotes about his own childhood memories of these foods, tying the life of a Peruvian to the tastes and textures. He peppered every sight with a layer of history and culture, so that we came away with an understanding of not just the ancient Incan history, but of current day Incan values, considerations, and current events.

Traveling with Vantage Adventures is like traveling with a local…because you are.

Need an example? I have dozens, but here’s one that stands out: after touring a weaving cooperative in the Sacred Valley, we stopped at a local chicha shop near Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. Enrique translated the local chicha maker’s explanation of how to make this fermented corn drink, and we sampled it…all part of our tour. But afterward, he took us out to the courtyard behind the shop where he taught us to play a traditional Peruvian bar game (you toss weighted coins at a frog’s mouth for points…an equivalent to playing darts in a bar in the States).

While we played the game, he related his memory of playing ‘frog’ with his father and grandfather, and overhearing them discuss the dangers of the cocaine industry regime in Peru of that time. A few days later, Enrique told us, his grandfather had been shot and killed by the terrorists; his father—a policeman—was forced to withdraw into his home for his safety not long after.

Hearing this story while drinking this Peruvian drink and playing the game so many locals have enjoyed for centuries not only helped us to know Enrique better…it helped us connect present-day Peru to the past, and enabled us to better understand what Peruvians want for their future. This is an experience I could not have manufactured on my own, no matter how many guidebooks I read or sights I saw.

Vantage peace of mind:

The day we flew into Peru, the rural towns outside the city of Cusco began a farmers’ strike. Apparently somewhat common, this strike blocked off the roads leading from Cusco to the Sacred Valley. As a result, our entire itinerary had to be changed around on the fly. Vantage took this development in stride, re-structuring our itinerary in a way that felt seamless (but I know took a lot of organization on their part). Once the strike had officially ended, we took one of the roads in question to head to Machu Picchu. Unexpectedly, a rowdy group of lingering strikers ambushed our bus on the narrow road, throwing rocks and yelling. They’d blockaded the road with stones and rubble. Our guides and bus driver quickly accessed the situation, spoke to locals, and drove us swiftly to safety. We went to Plan C (remember, we were already on Plan B) to find an alternative route, then to Plan D when that plan was rendered useless as well by additional blockades. In the end, they got us to our destination by accessing local dirt roads over the Andes. After a somewhat harrowing (but totally exciting) ride over the mountains, we arrived at our luxury hotel, ready for Machu Picchu. While countless other tourists were stranded in Cusco, we enjoyed a day without crowds.

If I had been traveling without Vantage, there’s no way I would have known of alternative routes past the blockades. I would have been stuck outside of the Sacred Valley along with most other tourists. In that moment, I realized that while safe and friendly, Peru is a country of some unknowns, best explored with a local guide who can navigate.

Vantage Cares:

Peru has endured many dictatorships and terrorist regimes, and is a relatively new country to democracy. As a result, it is still a developing country in many ways. Tourism is a primary industry, and while tourist dollars alone assist Peru significantly, I was happy to hear about Vantage Cares. This program, in place on all Vantage Adventures, donates funds as well as on-the-ground assistance to worthy causes in each country Vantage visits.

In Peru, Vantage Cares sponsors a rural school about 50 minutes from Cusco. Vantage works directly with school administers to understand the needs of the school, then creates projects our local adventure guides can particulate in. We visited the school, which had just gotten a fresh coat of paint. The teachers and parents cooked us a big welcoming meal, and the students swarmed us, excited to see foreigners. They performed songs and showed us their favorite playground games, and we toured their classrooms. This visit was a true highlight of my trip.

Thanks to my education of Peruvian culture and events from Enrique and my on-site visit for Vantage Cares, I came away from Peru with a far richer understanding and connection than I would have otherwise.

How to visit Peru with Vantage:

I recommend a trip to Peru for any active family with school-aged or teen kids. It’s a country filled with diverse landscapes, outdoor adventure, rich culture, and lively cities. Select a trip to get started. Before you depart, be sure to check out our tips for travel in Peru.

As I disclose whenever applicable, I went to Peru on a familiarization tour with Vantage for the purpose of review. Without these fact-finding missions, I would not be able to recommend travel options to my readers.

Why you should visit Peru with Vantage Adventures

Massachusetts with kids: Purgatory Chasm

September 5, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

A unique natural landmark, Purgatory Chasm State Reservation runs for a quarter of a mile between granite walls rising as high as 70 feet. Popular with picnickers and rock-climbers alike, the Chasm is believed to have its origin in the sudden release of dammed-up glacial meltwater near the end of the last Ice Age, approximately 14,000 years ago.

Trails lead to a wide variety of rock formations, with such romantic names as The Corn Crib, The Coffin, The Pulpit, Lovers’ Leap and Fat Man’s Misery.An adventurous playground, equipped with a play structure, swings and a merry-go-round, is now located near the visitor center.

Please be aware chasm rocks and slopes are slippery and deceiving. Wear rubber soled shoes or hiking boots. Please stay away from the edges of the chasm. It is not recommended to hike the chasm after or during inclement weather due to extremely slippery rocks.

Note: Well behaved dogs are welcome, but must be leashed at all times.

We stopped by the Chasm for lunch on our way out to Narragansett Beach, Rhode Island, during a summer getaway. It is about an hour from Northampton, Massachusetts. It is a large state reservation park with lots of hiking trails, picnic spots, a visitor center, bathrooms and parking. But the main attraction is the ½ mile long “chasm” where kids can climb on, over, under all kinds of rocks and boulders. There were even some rock climbing classes going on when we were there. The chasm is right across from the visitor center and has a trail marker. You can hike it in a loop by exploring the rocky chasm and then returning along the ridge above the chasm. It was the perfect pit stop on the way to the beach. Or it could be a destination for a picnic and afternoon of adventure.

There are no food services in the park area, but it is right off the highway.

Rates:

No fee. There is a daily parking fee of $5 for MA vehicle, $6 non-MA vehicles.

Directions:

Purgatory Chasm is off route 146 about an hour south-west from Boston.

Pin it for later!

Photo credit: Flickr/Matt Runkle

New Hampshire with kids: Lost River Gorge and Boulder Caves

August 31, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

The Lost River Gorge and Boulder Caves is a great location for exploration that families can take at their own pace. It starts with a three-fourth mile boardwalk through the gorge. You may remain on the boardwalk, or, if your kids love off-roading, you can explore the boulder caves. This is an excellent outdoor activity in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

The Mysterious Boulder Caves

The site starts with a short walk descending approximately 300 feet along the entrance trail. The first stop from the trail is a viewing platform with great views of the gorge. From there, you enter the gorge and meet your first cave, The Sun Altar.

Next up, families explore more rock and boulder formations, caves, and waterfalls. We visited this spot in July 2016 with a five, seven, and 15-year-old. Basically it is about a mile long “trail” with boardwalks, ramps and ladders that takes you through about a dozen glacial caves. There’s “The Bear Crawl”, “Lemon Squeezer” and “Devil’s Kitchen’ to name a few. All three kids loved it! At each cave there was an alternate route in case someone in your group did not want to crawl on their hands and knees through a cave. It took us a little over an hour and we could have gone back around again if we’d had time. Although other groups were there, it never felt rushed or crowded. You can always let people go by you. Babies in backpacks couldn’t get through and those parents took the alternate routes. (Note: no strollers are allowed.) And not all the grandparents could make it through each area, or wanted to, either! There’s a very pretty waterfall at one point.

There’s plenty of parking and, of course, a gift shop. But there is not a restaurant. Pack a lunch! We thought we’d buy lunch there, but ended up with snacks like yogurt, granola bars, etc from the snack bar area. There are restrooms at the gift shop/ticket area but none along the trail.

There’s a clever little “quiz card” kids can pick up at the ticket booth, fill out along the trail and then turn in for a sticker and prize. We also panned for treasure at the Lost River Mining Sluice after the hike.

Rates and Hours:

Open daily early May—mid-Oct (July and August 9 am-5 pm). Cost is $19/adults and $15/4-12 3 and under free.

Directions:

It’s about 40 minutes from the Montshire Museum in Vermont that has already been reviewed. It took us over 2 hours from Northampton. The address is 1712 Lost River Road, North Woodstock, NH.

More adventures in Gulf County Florida

August 5, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

This is a sponsored post written by me on behalf of Gulf County Florida for IZEA. All opinions are 100% mine.

Visiting or living in the Southeast and wondering if there’s outdoor recreation around you? There is! Last year, we outlined an outdoor adventure itinerary for Gulf County, Florida, filled with biking trails, hiking, and kayaking. I had truly no idea there was so much in the way of wilderness in this state.

What makes Gulf County different than much of Florida is its access to waterways of all sorts. You’re actually never more than 15 minutes away from water, whether that be the Gulf of Mexico, the saltwater St. Joseph Bay, Indian Pass Lagoon, the Gulf County Canal, the Intracoastal Waterway, the Apalachicola Bay and river basin, and the freshwater of the Dead Lakes and Chipola River. Florida is about more than theme parks and beach days! And perhaps best of all, this year, Pit Stops for Kids readers have the chance to win a $50 AMEX card just for commenting on their favorite option during a Gulf County vacation! Read on to learn more!

Planning an adventure in Gulf County:

After looking through our suggestions from last year, the next step in planning your own Gulf County adventure in the ‘wilds’ of Florida is by reading through the Gulf County Adventure Guide. Here are our top new suggestions to complement your itinerary:

Explore a lake:

The 4,000 natural acres of Lake Wimico is only accessible by boat the Intracoastal, which to west coasters like myself, is an adventure in itself. Fishing is prime at Lake Winico, but there are other attractions as well, including a houseboat village to check out, and wildlife to spot, including, of course, alligators. You’re actually just a few miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Gulf County has its own adventure guides families can hire, such as Captain Phil Cox, who is part of the new concierge program. He offers eco-tours for those who are not avid fishermen and women.

Want to fish instead? Head to Indian Pass Lagoon with Adventure Guide Captain Carle. Amazingly (to me), you can even see shark in these shallow waters by the gulf.

Watch sea turtles:

Last year, we talked about horseback riding at Cape San Blas, but this area is also well known as a sea turtle habitat. In fact, they’re the highest density-nesting beach in North Florida. The naturalists at the cape invite people to watch their nest evaluations at night, where families have to chance to watch live hatchlings crawl out. Check their Facebook page for nesting information and a timeline this year. In fact, St. John Peninsula has its very own ‘turtle patrol’, which scientists and volunteers constantly monitoring the progress of the babies. Visitors are invited to go on their morning turtle walks in addition to watching the nests. Cool!

Kayak in a ‘dead’ lake:

Kayaking around the South Flats of Gulf County is like visiting another planet. The Dead Lakes get their name from the Cypress and Tupelo trees that stand in the water; when the water is low, the stumps are visible. Add a huge variety of birds and other critters, plus a misty fog off the water, and you have yourself an alien planet! When we finally make it to Gulf County, I’d love to explore this environment with Off The Map Expeditions.

Check out any of these activities using the Adventure Guide linked above, or make it easy on yourself and use the Gulf County Concierge Program. Don’t limit yourself only to summer, because Gulf County shines in fall through spring! While you’re planning, enter Gulf County’s Never Have I Ever Contest!

Now time to enter the sweepstakes for an $50 AMEX card! Which of the adventures in the Adventure Guide would you or your family enjoy taking part in? Why? Answer in the comments for a chance to win!

The fine print: NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. A PURCHASE OR PAYMENT OF ANY KIND WILL NOT INCREASE YOUR CHANCES OF WINNING. VOID WHERE PROHIBITED. One winner, chosen at random from all eligible entries received, will receive a $50 AmEx gift card, and will be announced on or about 10 days after end of entry period. Entrants may enter within 21 days of this post going live. Must be a resident of one of the 48 contiguous United States (excl. PR, HI, AK) the age of majority in his or her jurisdiction at time of entry. Odds of winning depend on number of eligible entries received. Sweepstakes is sponsored by Gulf County.

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Oregon lake resorts off the beaten path

August 3, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Last month, our teenager hiked the Oregon section of the Pacific Crest Trail. As we followed along on his journey through Oregon, assisting with food drops and other needs, we discovered a new side of our home state we hadn’t yet explored! Throughout the rural mountain regions of the Beaver State, many Oregon lake resorts are located far off the main interstate or even paved highways. They offer tranquility, beauty, and rustic yet comfortable amenities. Here are our favorites!

Shelter Cove Resort

Located on beautiful Odell Lake near Willamette Pass, Shelter Cove Resort offers a marina, cabin rentals, a friendly camp store, and a pretty campground. It gets busy during the summer months with fishing derbies and other outdoorsy events, but when we visited during a crowded weekend, it still felt relaxed and peaceful. There’s boating on this lake, but mostly of the fishing variety, so there’s not a lot of noise. To get to Shelter Cove, take Highway 58 from Eugene or Highway 97 to Highway 58 from Bend.

What to do nearby: Adjacent to Shelter Cove is the Oregon Skyline Trail, which connects the lake to Windigo Pass, above Crater Lake. A five mile hike up the OST from Shelter Cove takes hikers along lovely Whitefish Creek to Diamond View Lake, a tiny alpine lake accessible only by trail. It’s a tough hike (and a round-trip of 1o miles), but well-worth the long day. Just bring a picnic lunch!

If you are a PCT hiker or assisting one: Shelter Cove is PCT-friendly, offering a designated area for hikers with outlets, WiFi, and water. You can also get a PCT campsite in the campground for $10.

Elk Lake Resort

Like Odell Lake, Elk Lake is tucked away in the heart of Oregon, this time north of Mt. Bachelor. The resort offers one of the best day use and swimming beaches of the Oregon lake resorts we visited, and a great little restaurant that serves the best pulled pork sandwich my son says he’s ever eaten! There are camping cabins, full-sized cabins (more like condos) and a rustic campground. There is a marina, and boat rentals are available, as well as water ‘toy’ rentals like stand-up paddle boards. To get to Elk Lake, take Century Drive north of Bend.

What to do nearby: Take time to check out all the smaller Cascade lakes along Century Drive, north of towering Mt. Bachelor. Or, rent mountain bikes and hit the trails in and around Bend in the Deschutes National Forest.

If you are a PCT hiker or assisting one: Definitely have your hiker stop for a meal here, and you can send packages here if you need a food drop. Elk Lake isn’t far from Bend, so friends can meet you pretty easily.

Hyatt Lake Resort

Located in Southern Oregon above the Greensprings, Hyatt lake Resort is a large, boater-friendly lake with several campgrounds and a rustic resort. Easily accessible from Ashland Oregon on Highway 66, Hyatt Lake’s small restaurant and cabin rentals are located on the west side of the lake, which is quieter than the day use and camping areas on the east. This is definitely a sleepy place, which is just the way most people who visit like it. The restaurant also sells take-out pizza, so if you get a cabin, you’ll be set for the night!

What to do nearby: Check out the historic Greensprings Inn, just down the road, and learn about the early automobile road that winds through the mountains here. Drive down Highway 66 to take a short day hike on Grizzly Peak, or head all the way to Ashland to spend a day at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival or at Lithia Park. You’re only about 30 miles away.

If you are a PCT hiker or assisting one: There are walk-in tent sites at the campground across the lake from the resort, if you’re not staying there. And the Hyatt Lake Resort restaurant will give out free ice cream cones to PCT hikers!

Ollalie Lake Resort:

Located in a very remote part of Central Oregon and accessible only by forest service road, Ollalie Lake Resort is where to go for a completely tech-free stay. There’s no cell service or WiFi anywhere at the lake. To get there, it’s easiest to start at Salem, and take Highway 22 to National Forest Road 46. Once there, get a cabin or yurt and plan to simply stay and enjoy your wilderness surroundings. There is a small store, and boat rentals.

What to do nearby: You can easily access the PCT here and get to a few more remote lakes such as Jude Lake and Head Lake, but since Ollalie is already so remote, the best thing to do is take in the view!

If you are a PCT hiker or assisting one: There is no ability to mail food packages here, and no accommodations for PCT hikers (though you can check on cabin availability). This is best as a ‘hit the store and keep going’ spot!

Lost Lake Resort:

Located above Mt. Hood, Lost Lake is one of the most beautiful in an area teeming with beautiful lakes! Owned by the same folks who run Cascade Huts (which we loved during a winter visit), Lost Lake Resort offers downright upscale amenities compared to the other lakes featured here, but has prices to match. Their cabin rentals are very nice, but on the expensive side, and they have lodge rooms as well as a store filled with essentials. Like on the other lakes, you can rent boats and other water toys. From I-84 in the Columbia Gorge, head south on Highway 201/281 to the lake.

What to do nearby: Lost Lake Resort is within easy driving distance of Mt. Hood and Government Camp, which has fun summer activities offered in and near the ski resorts, such as mountain biking. Day hiking is also popular in this area.

If you are a PCT hiker or assisting one: Most PCT hikers don’t stop here, since Government Camp is so close (and has more amenities). But Lost Lake Resort is a great place for PCT trail angels (or people assisting hikers) to stay, if you book early!

Do you have a favorite Oregon lake resort?

Photo credit

Dominican Republic with kids: 27 Waterfalls of Damajagua

July 15, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Located in the countryside outside of Puerta Plata, Dominican Republic, the 27 Waterfalls of Damajuana is the most talked-about experience on the north side of the island. Is it worthy of the hype? In a word, yes.

What is the 27 Waterfalls of Damajagua?

The 27 Charcos of Damajagua is exactly what it sounds like: 27 waterfalls in a row in the middle of the Dominican jungle. Unregulated until 2004, the waterfalls are now controlled by a private company thanks to Peace Corps volunteer Joe Kennedy (yes, of those Kennedys), and there’s quite the operation at the site. When you arrive, either by tour group or on your own, you’ll now find a dirt parking lot, tour booth, bathrooms and lockers, and outdoor dining area. Your group is paired with a guide from the falls, and you opt between navigating 27, 12, 7, or just one waterfall.

We wanted to do all 27, but the water level restricted us to 12. We went with Iguana Mama, and had a fun-loving guide, Raul. Our group of about 10 people were fitted with life vests and helmets (required), and we trekked almost two miles up a dirt trail. (The trail is around 3 km.) The youngest person in our group was eight, and the oldest was probably me, at age 40. The trail included steep wooden steps, rocks, and pretty severe inclines and declines, but overall was in good shape. The way was shaded as we hiked into the jungle canopy, and we were joined by a second guide, plus our guide who came with us from our cruise port.

When we reached the end of the trail to the 12 waterfalls (which took about 45 minutes), we climbed down another steep staircase and entered the river. In places, the water was only ankle deep, and in other places, over our heads. We began making our way back toward the ‘camp’ via the river, alternatively wading, swimming, jumping, sliding, and climbing in, over, under, and through the river. It was amazing.

At each of the 12 waterfalls, our guides would stop us and explain our options, which usually included leaping off a rock or outcropping into a deep pool of water below, sliding on our butts along naturally carved waterslides in the rock, or taking the ‘chicken’ way around waterfalls on questionable-looking ladders and staircases. Honestly, I think the most dangerous route was via those ladders!

Most of the time, I opted to jump (sometimes as much as 10 feet), but I also enjoyed sliding. The kids loved both options, and often, we’d climb back up ladders or ropes to do certain waterfalls a second time. There were groups ahead and behind us, which meant we had to keep to a schedule (see ’tips’ section below), but overall, we didn’t feel rushed. I don’t love heights, but I’m used to jumping off ledges, so the experience didn’t daunt me. If you REALLY don’t like heights, there are work-arounds for each waterfall, but they’re in the form of the aforementioned ladders, which, honestly, are just as scary.

In some places, you can swim underneath the waterfalls or explore partial caves carved out of the rock, and throughout the whole experience, the jungle canopy is above you, shading you and sheltering you. The sunlight cuts through gently (you don’t need sunglasses), and we didn’t find the hike or the swim to be buggy. The water is refreshing but not too cold.

The route down through the waterfalls took us about 1.5 hours, and afterward, we had a short hike back to the camp where we changed and had an included lunch of Dominican beans and rice, BBQed chicken, and a few kid pleasers like (oddly) spaghetti. Soda and rum and coke were included.

How to book a tour:

You can either arrive to the waterfalls on your own, taking a taxi from Amber Cove or an autobus from Puerto Plata, or you can book an excursion through Iguana Mama or Marysol Tours. The latter option is more expensive, but what you’re paying for is the convenience of the transportation (and the expensive gasoline required to make that happen). If you opt to arrive solo, you simply pay as you arrive (about $480 Dominican pesos for all 27), and guides are assigned to you on a first-come, first-served basis. This means you may have to wait a bit for the next guide.

Tips for the waterfalls:

Book a tour early in the day to play in the water with fewer crowds. This ensures you won’t wait for a guide if you’re going solo, either.
Bring waterproof shoes (like Keens or Chacos) or an old pair of sneakers to get wet.
Put on bug spray and sun screen ahead of time.
Keep everything but your waterproof camera on the bus or in a locker.

Cost:

We booked a tour through Iguana Mama, because we wanted the convenience of a port pick-up. Our tour included lunch and cost just over $50 US per adult. If you opt out of a tour, the cost is significantly less per person (around $10), but does not include transportation or lunch. We were quoted everything from $40-100 US for a cab ride for five people from Amber Cove. It IS possible to negotiate a flat rate from taxis on the highway.

How to get there:

If you go on your own, get up-to-date directions at 27charcos.com. More information is found here.

Ecotourism activities in Costa Rica: Nature parks and lodging

December 17, 2015 By Amy Hagstrom

The Republic of Costa Rica is a rough and tropical rain forested Central American country, with a population of around 4.5 million. The country is popular for nature travel destination among the tourist because of its rich flora and fauna, beaches and volcanoes. Costa Rica has the highest population of plants and animals species on earth.

There are around 26 nature parks, 8 biological reserves, 32 protected zones, 11 forest reserves, 58 wildlife refuges, 15 wetlands in Costa Rica (source: Costa Rica National Parks) which is home to 850 type of bird species, 237 mammal species, 1,260 tree species, 1,200 orchid species, and 361 reptile and amphibian species. Because of the rich wildlife, ecotourism activities in Costa Rica are one of the popular and key activities of the tourism industry which attracts large crowd of tourist to this country. As ecotourism is a major source of income; the country has very strict environmental policies, to safe guard the environment. Government also implemented special programs like Bandera Azul Program (Ecological Blue Flag) and Voluntary Certification Program to evaluate and maintain sustainable tourism with the conservation of the environment.

Ecotourism activities in Costa Rica provides a combination of luxury and adventure activities, which includes visits to rich wildlife to experience flora and fauna, visiting volcanoes, hiking, river rafting, bird watching, whale watching, canopy tours, horse riding, bungee jumping, surfing and snorkeling are some of the few mentions. You can also visit to the local coffee plantations and visits to the local communities to know more about their culture. In Costa Rica you will experience rainforest, volcanoes, beaches, wetlands and caves all at one place. These activities are not only for fun and leisure but also take you closer to the nature and help you understand the natural life more properly.

Top 5 nature parks in Costa Rica

Manuel Antonio National Park (Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio)

A small national park established in 1972 near Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. Although smallest of all Costa Rican natural parks, the park is among the most beautiful natural parks in the world. It covers an area of around 680 hectares. About 150,000 tourists visit this park annually. Manuel Antonio National Park encompasses tropical rain forest, white sand beaches and coral reefs. Although the park is smallest of all in Costa Rica, the diversity of wildlife is immense. This park is home of is 109 mammal species and 184 bird species. Brown-throated three-toed sloth, Hoffmann’s two-toed sloth and white-headed capuchin monkey are the major feature of this park.

Rincón de la Vieja National Park ( Parque Nacional Volcán Rincón de la Vieja)

A national park situated in the Guanacaste province of the northwestern part of Costa Rica. This 34,800 acre national park is a combination of active volcanoes and tropical forests with naturally heated pools, mud fumaroles and beautiful waterfalls. Rincón de la Vieja, Santa María and dormant volcano Cerro Von Seebach are the volcanoes in this national park. The park is rich of flora and fauna which include species like pumas, jaguar, monkeys-howler, spider, and white-faced-kinkajous, sloths, and tapirs.

Isla del Coco (Cocos Island)

An uninhabited island declared as a protected national park, situated in Pacific Ocean around 550 kms from Costa Rica. Cocos Island is the only oceanic island in Pacific region with such a dense rainforests and diverse flora and fauna. Because the island is never linked to the continent, the island is home of endemic species. There are around 230 species of plants, 400 species of insects, 90 bird species and rich marine fauna with a large population of yellow fin tuna, giant mantas, sailfish and sharks such as white tip reef shark, scalloped hammerhead shark and the whale shark. About 3200 of tourists visits this park annually. One of the major attractions of this park is the rich underwater world, ideal for scuba diving.

Corcovado National Park (Parque Nacional Corcovado)

A national park established in 1975 situated on Osa Peninsula in south eastern part of Costa Rica covering a 42,400 hectare of area. It’s the largest park in Costa Rica, with intense and richest bio diversity in the world. The park is open for day and overnight visits (with professional guides) for tourists. This park is home to abundance of wildlife like, scarlet macaws, spider monkeys, Central American squirrel monkey, mantled howler monkeys, sloths, anteaters, pumas, white faced capuchin monkeys, woodpeckers, hermit crabs and pelicans just to name some few.

Tortuguero National Park

This is third most visited national park, which is situated in the northeastern part of the Costa Rica, reached only by airplane or boat. It covers an area of 31173 hectare. This national park is a protected area because of its bio diversity and eco system, which supports endangered species of flora and fauna. The park is located in a tropical climate, which includes rain forests, mangrove forests, swamps, beaches, and lagoons. This national park has a long beach nearly 35 kilometers, which serve as protective nesting ground for the sea turtles which is the main attraction. This park consist of around 400 species for trees and 2200 species of plants and fauna species like, sea turtles (hawksbill, loggerheads, green, and leatherbacks), bull shark, eel and 30 species of freshwater fish.

Where to Stay in Costa Rica

Apart from the ecological activities, Costa Rica is also famous for the ecofriendly resorts. As the government in the country have very strict environmental rules. Every resort in the country has to go through CST (Certification for Sustainable Tourism) program. Under this program, the resort has to be made and run in such a way that they have minimum impact on the nature. Some of the key parameters which all the resorts have to maintain is recycling products, implementation of water and energy saving devices, proper disposal of the waste and conservation and expansion of Costa Rica’s forests.

These ecofriendly resorts are built very close to the nature, far from the towns, which gives the visitors a direct access to the natural outdoor. Tourists can very easily hike through the trails from the resort property to the surrounding forests, hill sides and beaches. As they are situated in isolated locations, they are dependent on solar and wind power for electricity and grow their own food with the help of the local people. These resorts are less fancy and no that much luxurious in comparison of the regular resorts, but definitely they provide accommodation in places like these, which is hard to find mostly. Also the Costa Rican food available in eco lodges is very organic, tasty and fresh. Still some of these are providing luxury rooms, villas and bungalows with AC and WIFI facilities.

Not only the stay, the activities offered in Costa Rica resorts is numerous and also very popular, which includes day and night tours to the wild life, hiking tours, horse-back riding tours, tours to the natural hot springs with local eco-guides, volcano views from observation towers, visits to herbal farms, bird watching, dolphin, whale-watching and adventure activities like mountain bike rides, canopy zip line tours, sport fishing, white-water river rafting, snorkeling, surfing, kayaking and scuba diving. Also the resort helps you to properly schedule your activities and tours for you. So if experiencing nature is your priority travel goal in Costa Rica, these eco lodges will be your priority spots for stay. Here are some popular eco-friendly Costa Rica resorts, Lapa Rios, Luna Nueva Lodge, La Cusinga Lodge, Bosque Del Cabo, Danta Corcovado Lodge, Costa Rica Tree House Lodge, Cerro Escondido and Rara Avis Rainforest Lodge and Reserve.

Exploring Custer State Park with kids

September 25, 2015 By Amy Hagstrom

Haven’t been to Custer State Park? Get ready to be impressed! This state park encompasses 71,000 acres, making it larger than some national parks. In fact, some argue that Custer should be a national park, and after visiting, I agree! Plan to stay at least two nights to see the majority of what this park has to offer, or at least one full day to see some highlights. Here’s how to tackle Custer State Park with kids:

Start with the Needles Highway Scenic Drive:

It’s not often I recommend driving through a park with kids, but Custer’s Needles Highway is breathtaking, and easy to access from the western park entrance at Custer. Plus, it concludes at a great lake and hiking option (more on that later).

After driving past the stockade area and coming into the center of the park, the Needles Highway will head north, winding first through meadows and grassland where you’ll want to keep an eye out for bison. Then, it climbs into the more dramatic, rocky part of the park, taking you through several narrow stone tunnels and opening up on incredible vistas of the Cathedral Spires, Needles Eye, and Little Devil’s Tower. Definitely stop a few times along the way to snap photos (you won’t be able to help yourself), especially after the tunnel that delivers you to Needles Eye. This natural wonder is indeed a rock formation in the shape of a needle’s eye. Hint: mountain goats can often be spotted on the craggy peaks beyond.

Take a hike (or two or three):

Custer State Park is filled with kid-friendly hikes of various mileage and degree of difficulty. We’ll start with what may be the most spectacular:

Harney Peak: Harney Peak has the distinction of being the highest point east of the Rockies (at over 7000 feet elevation). There are several trails that will get you there, marked Trail 9, Trail 4 East, and Trail 4 West. The shortest route to the top of the peak is Trail 9, which is a 3.1 mile (one-way) trail starting at the Sylvan Lake.

The trail is well-maintained, and moderate in difficulty for the first two miles, then gets quite rocky and steep for the final mile. Young kids can absolutely do this hike with the right shoes and the right attitude, and teens will definitely be able to handle it. Most of the way is fairly shaded, but because the final stint is in the open, and because the trail gets very crowded as the day goes on, I highly recommend hitting this trail early in the morning. Pack a picnic lunch to eat at the top, which rewards you with a wonderfully constructed fire tower lookout built by the CCC in the 1930s.

Cathedral Spires: This trail is also a one-way (out and back) deal, and families will see the trailhead right off the Needles Highway. It’s only 1.5 miles long, but strenuous and mostly open. Another to tackle in the first half of the day, the Spires rewards with amazing views and cool rock formations.

Centennial Trail: If you want to try the Centennial Trail, which actually winds 111 miles through the Black Hills from Bear Butte State Park in the north to Wind Cave National Park in the South, 22 miles of it is available within Custer State Park. The French Creek portion is 10 miles one-way, and moderate. It takes hikers through the Narrows, which requires either climbing a 60-foot embankment or wading 100 feet through the creek (way more fun). I recommend doing this trail with kids who are well-adapted to longer hikes and if you have two cars (so you can shuttle). You can do a shorter section of the trail at Badger Hole (approximately 4 miles, but it’s more strenuous).

Badger Clark Historic Trail: For those looking to get out of the car and stretch the legs with an easy loop, this one mile loop offers fun historical background in a pretty setting. The trail is located behind Badger Hole, home of Charles Badger Clark, South Dakota’s first Poet Laureate, and is mostly level, with some short climbs on an even trail.

Go jump in a lake:

Custer State Park is dotted with lovely lakes, all of which offer swimming, canoeing, kayaking, and picnicking.

Sylvan Lake: Sylvan is located near the trailhead for Harney Peak, and has a small marina and a trail circling the lake. There’s a general store and lodging, and while it gets crowded in summer, it can be a great place to spend a warm afternoon after hiking. If Sylvan looks familiar, that may be because it was featured (along with Mt. Rushmore) in National Treasure 2.

Legion Lake: Located toward the center of the park, Legion Lake also has swimming, fishing, and picnicking, plus dining at the lodge. If it’s crowded, try Center Lake, to the north up Needles Highway (turn on South Playhouse Road).

See wildlife:

You may see bison just while driving around the park (in fact, it’s very likely), but there’s also the Buffalo Corrals in the south end of the park to visit, and the Prairie Dog Town. Take the Wildlife Loop Road to easily hit both spots, and whenever you stop to get out of your car to snap photos, keep your eye trained on the rocks for mountain goats. We saw several, thanks to some eagle eyes.

Where to stay:

Custer State Park Resort, privately operated within the park, offers five lodges plus specialty cabins within the park. You can check them all out here, but they generally range from stately and elegant (yet still casual) Sylvan Lake to historic State Game Lodge, ranch-like Blue Bell, modern Creekside, and lake house Legion. All have the convenience of services like stores and casual dining.

If you plan to stay outside the park, I suggest staying in the town of Custer, near the west entrance to the park. I was very comfortable at Rock Crest Lodge. It was located on the highway, but close to town dining and had a nice playground and pool.

Have you been to Custer State Park? What do you recommend?