Montana dude ranch vacation: Flathead Lake Lodge

On my very first morning of a week-long dude ranch stay at Flathead Lake Lodge in western Montana, I sat down to breakfast in the historic lodge dining room and couldn’t find a spoon. I looked about, but the wait staff was busy, so I turned to a fellow guest…a veteran of many summers at the dude ranch. “Oh, just start checking the drawers,” she said, pointing to a cabinet. “I think they’re in the second from the left.”

I felt odd, digging through a restaurant’s silverware, but before I’d reached the second drawer, I had more help. “Spoon? Oh yeah, right here,” a man said, directing me to the correct drawer. When looked up to thank him, I realized the owner of the lodge himself, Doug Averill, had come to my rescue. “We’re really causal here,” he assured me, waving away my sheepish apology for helping myself. “Whatever you need, just feel free.”

I quickly learned that this sense of ownership and familiarity is typical at Flathead Lake Lodge. Take the mid-week morning, for instance, that I rounded the corner from the main lodge toward the outdoor volleyball court to see my eighteen-year-old giving a new eight-year-old buddy a piggy back ride toward the barn…a little boy we’d never met before that week. Or the time my 12-year-old informed me he couldn’t tell me where he was headed, because he and a gaggle of other middle schoolers had found themselves a ‘secret’ hideout never before discovered. Or the time the owners took their staff out on Flathead Lake one evening for an appreciation party, leaving with a cheery, “Try not to burn the place down!” in farewell.

flathead lake lodge

Guests at the ranch would never mistake this casual approach to hospitality for neglect, however. The ranch staff, from wranglers to housekeeping to water sports instructors, were attentive, friendly, and enthusiastic, without exception. The difference was, we were treated like family rather than like visitors. And at a ranch like Flathead Lake Lodge that caters to providing a full but relaxed family vacation, this treatment made all the difference.

We’ve now stayed a week at three different dude ranches, and have learned extensively about many more. They each offer their own take on the dude ranch experience, but I have taken to calling Flathead Lake Lodge a ‘dude ranch plus’. More than any other ranch we’ve reviewed, it embodies a full mountain vacation experience. Horseback riding and ranch life is a big part of it, but by no means defines it. Flathead Lake Lodge is just as much an ‘all inclusive lakeside resort’ as it is a dude ranch.

What to expect from a Montana dude ranch vacation at Flathead Lake Lodge:

flathead lake lodge

Flathead Lake Lodge sits on 2500 acres of lakefront and forest on Flathead Lake, Montana. It’s just a short walk from the quaint town of Bigfork, and about 45 minutes from both the airport in Kalispell and the entrance to Glacier National Park. On the property, guests enjoy private shoreline of the lake, with a small but well-stocked marina that includes three small sailboats, two larger sloops, several cruiser boats, motorboats, a ski boat, and a collection of paddle boards, kayaks, and canoes. Also on the lake front are docks to fish from and swim from, a swimming pool, and plenty of lounging space on rolling lawn.

Just up from the lake sits the historic main lodge, which dates from 1945. This houses the communal dining room with its massive stone fireplace, the kitchen, bar, and the lodge office. The main lodge is a central hub at the ranch, where guests and staff alike relax, eat, and mingle.

flathead lake lodge

Tucked around the lodge is a smattering of small cabins, ranging in size from one to three bedrooms, which house guests, as well as the South Lodge, which offers lodge rooms for guests who don’t require an entire cabin. Our family of five stayed in the South Lodge in two adjacent rooms, one of which included an upper loft. All lodge rooms have their own bathrooms. The sand volleyball court sits between the South Lodge and the main lodge, and a path up the hill away from the lake leads to the gift shop and laundry facilities, tennis courts, and barn.

flathead lake lodge

If the main lodge is the central hub for meals, the barn is the central hub for horseback activities and the central play area for children. How so? Above the working space of the barn (where horses are saddled, etc) the upper level houses ping pong tables, a pool table, and other games. Kids tend to gather here before or after their rides. Below the game area, a well-stocked and staffed arts and crafts room occupies a large space. Behind the barn is a large horseback riding arena, with pastures on other sides.

dude ranch vacation

Guests arrive and depart on Sundays. Upon arrival, we were shown to our rooms and given the chance to get settled, then were able to attend an orientation at the barn, which introduced us to the wrangler staff and horse program. I liked that there’s a chance for guests to get up on a horse Sunday evening; this is perfect for people who are less familiar with horses and want to get their feet wet in the controlled space of the arena under the watchful eye of a wrangler.

It’s not necessary to sign up for horseback rides, as they’re offered daily with no reservations required, but on Monday morning, guests have the opportunity to sign up for additional activities that do require advanced notice. These activities include the ones offered by outside outfitters or operators, such as guided fishing trips, mountain laser tag (more on that later), whitewater rafting, clay pigeon shooting, massages, and yoga. These activities come with an extra charge. Monday morning is also the time and place to sign up for horseback riding lessons in the arena, guided hikes, and guided or non-guided mountain biking, which are offered by lodge staff (of these, some hikes and mountain biking do come with an extra cost).

dude ranch trail ride

Here’s what’s always included in your stay, and do not require a Monday reservation:

  • horseback riding
  • water sports including waterskiing and wake boarding
  • canoe, kayak, and paddle board use
  • sailing (sailing on the large sloops requires a day-of sign up)
  • horseback lessons (you can sign up for these on Monday but also make reservations later)
  • hiking or mountain biking on your own (with your own bikes)
  • long rides (that include lunch or breakfast)
  • all meals, including the ‘riding’ meals to a steak fry dinner and to breakfast
  • tennis
  • volleyball
  • kids activities, including campout, fire truck riding, and kids’ rodeo

Meals are served in the main lodge, and include breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Breakfast cereals and pastries are available from about 7 am on, with either a hot buffet or plated breakfast (depending on the day) served at 8:30 am. Lunch is buffet style, served at 12:30 pm. Dinner is served buffet style for kids at 6 pm and as a plated meal for adults at 6:30 pm (one choice of entree, with specialty options such as vegetarian or gluten free meals offered with advanced notice). Kids can absolutely eat with the adults; the 6 pm buffet simply gives you the option in case you have kids who would rather eat and run. My teens ate the adult meal with us every evening, while my 12-year-old opted for the kid fare so he could go play with friends.

flathead lake lodge

On the schedule, there are also kids’ meal times for breakfast and lunch listed (30 minutes before adult dining), but we found these times to be more of a suggestion: the food is the same, but the lodge staff simply puts it out half an hour earlier for kids should they want it. Adults can certainly jump in line with the kids. As noted above, everything is causal at Flathead Lake Lodge.

We found the food served at Flathead to be well above average for a dude ranch. Dinners were exceptional, with entrees such as salmon, beef tenderloin, and chicken with risotto on the menu. Lunch buffet was so good, we often over-ate…I tried very hard to utilize only the well-stocked salad bar at lunch, but often found myself tempted to sample far more. The buffet items included a pasta bar, Mexican and Chinese food days, and seafood. Breakfast included fresh fruit and berries, plenty of cereal and granola choices, and hot dishes that usually included breakfast meats, eggs, hash browns or potatoes, or pancakes. Between meals, snacks are always on offer on a counter in the lodge, and water, lemonade, and tea are always available, as well as coffee.

flathead lake lodge

Kids’ activities such as lawn games are usually scheduled for the 6:30 hour so adults can know they’re busy doing something with staff while they eat dinner, but everything is optional, and there’s no formal childcare or kids’ club (you’re responsible for your kids). Before dinner, there’s always a happy hour in the bar from 5:30-6:30 pm. The way the bar operates is unique: while some bottles of wine and beer are available for purchase, guests are encouraged to bring their own liquor, beer, and wine to the lodge, label it with their last name, and store it in the bar. During happy hour, the bar is staffed and the bartender will mix drinks and pour wine, with appetizers served. This is a great time to chat with fellow guests about the day. At any other time, guests can treat the bar as their own, stepping behind the counter to access their own alcoholic beverages.

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A week stay at Three Bars Ranch, British Columbia

There are beautiful resorts and vacation properties all over the world. The best start with a stunning destination, then add experiences, dining, and activities in a way that feeds both a sense of adventure and the need for relaxation. Then there are a few truly special, tucked-away places that manage to do all of the above, plus add a certain something that take them over-the-top for family travel. What is this secret sauce? It’s hard to say, but you know it when you experience it: it’s genuine, organic, and rooted in excellent guest service. These magical places make our top 1% of destination reviews.

three-bars-ranch

The Three Bars Ranch in the Canadian Rockies of British Columbia is one of these places. One of the top 1% ones. One of the cream of the crop ones. They don’t get this rating from us by offering the most luxurious accommodations we’ve ever seen (we’ve seen nicer). They don’t get it from serving gourmet food. They don’t get it with a Michelin rating or a bunch of diamonds after their name in the guidebooks. They get it by being themselves, which is an authentic guest dude ranch with a long-standing family history, and by doing for guests: if it’s on your bucket list and can be done in the Rockies, they’ll make it happen.

three-bars-ranch

We’ve now reviewed multiple dude ranches, and our standard advice continues to be: know what you want before you book, then book accordingly. Some dude ranches we’ve experienced focus almost exclusively on their riding program, and are best for experienced riders. Others are more like B&Bs or farm stays. Three Bars Ranch wins in the ‘all-round best for everyone’ category, but after staying for a week, I urge families not to think of it as a dude ranch.

week-stay-three-bars-ranch

Instead, think of Three Bars as an all-inclusive Canadian holiday, or as a family camp. With rafting, mountain biking, sport shooting, tennis, swimming, fly fishing, hiking, and golf in addition to its riding program, Three Bars truly does have something for everyone. But it’s more than that: remember the secret sauce? Three Bars manages to offer all of the above, and do so seamlessly, in a way that makes families feel relaxed, welcome, and comfortable both with the ranch staff and with each other. Trust us: not all dude ranches achieve this.

What to expect at Three Bars Ranch:

Like most dude ranches, families typically book at week at Three Bars. We arrived on a Sunday in late June, pulling up to the ranch house, barn, and other structures at about 4 pm. We were greeted by two of our wranglers at the main lodge, and shown to our cabin, one of about 20 circling the lodge on a grassy court. We settled in, and explored the grounds.

three-bars-ranch

Three Bars is situated on over 1200 acres of pasture, forests, and mountainsides, plus uses an additional 60,000 acres of leased land in the heart of the Canadian Rockies along the St. Mary’s River. The ranch property includes the main lodge where we checked in, the cabins, tennis courts, an indoor swimming pool and hot tub, an activities barn with mountain bikes, and the horse padlocks and barns. Right away, it was clear that we were to consider this property ‘ours’ during our stay, and immediately, the kids felt comfortable wandering (as did we). They found the ping-pong and foosball tables, the pool table in the bar (open to youth players), the cozy gazebo, and the petting ‘zoo’, which is a true manaserie of animals all in need of lots of petting and holding (including a donkey, pigmy goat, pony, chickens, kittens, and goats).

cabins-three-bars-ranch

After a Sunday evening meet-and-greet, welcome dinner, and orientation, daily life at the ranch settles into a routine. Every day, a bulletin board will list the day’s schedule, which will always include a morning and afternoon horse ride, breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and an evening activity. Alternative afternoon activities are always offered: whether it be a scheduled rafting trip or a specifically arranged fly fishing trip, ATV ride, or mountain bike trip. Every morning, head wrangler (and ranch owner) Tyler Beckley comes around to each breakfast table to arrange the day’s activities for each family. This is the time for families to choose which type of ride to go on, or what alternative activity to schedule. As the week wore on, we, like many families, met friends and arranged to ride and play together, asking for teen rides, group rides, and ladies only rides. All were easily arranged.

animals-three-bars-ranch

Our typical day (Mon-Fri at the ranch) started by barely waking up in time for 8 am breakfast (unheard of for us, early-risers!), taking a morning ride of our choice (usually a fast ride while the kids rode with friends, or a family ride), coming back for lunch and a little break, an afternoon activity, which alternated between another ride or a different activity (one afternoon we went target shooting, another we went rafting), then down time in the late afternoon.

target-shooting

We filled this time by swimming in the pool, playing ping-pong or tennis, riding a bike along the trails, or just sitting on the porch of our cabin with a glass of wine.

Our family especially love riding bikes along the single track horse trails and many dirt roads and ATV trails around the ranch; bikes are available in the activities barn (the smallest being 17″ during our visit…a good size for a 10-year-old or up). From the barn area, trails can be accessed easily, either from the pastures or the trails past the large reining barn. We also swam and played tennis, and other families went fly fishing (equipment is available to use) and ATV riding (extra fee).

The ranch bar opens each day at 5 pm, and families tend to gather there to compare notes on the day. Kids order smoothies and play pool, and adults relax over a beer or cocktail. Dinner is at 6:30, followed by an evening activity, always with the wranglers, who also eat meals with guests and socialize naturally with everyone.

rafting-three-bars-ranch

Evening activities during our stay ranged from a reining horse demonstration by horse trainer Jessie Buckley to a volleyball match and a cowboy guitar entertainer. Because it doesn’t get dark in summer in this part of the world until almost 11 pm, the kids tended to play on the lawns or soak in the hot tub until well after 9 pm, with lights out for our crew of school-aged and teen kids well past bedtime.

The Three Bars riding program:

If I had to pick one part of the Three Bars Ranch that is at the heart of the stay, it would be the riding program, though I want to emphasize again that this ranch is about so much more than riding. That said, compared to riding programs at dude ranches we’ve visited that have more of a ‘riding is everything’ attitude, Three Bars is still very much on par.

saddling

The riding is incredible. The horses are very well trained and responsive, and to a person, the wranglers were friendly, competent, and helpful. During our visit, there was a very even mix of ability level on horseback, with about 1/3 of the riders considering themselves novices, 1/3 experienced riders who don’t ride often, and 1/3 frequent riders. On Day 1, everyone was introduced to their horse, pre-selected based on a questionnaire asking for experience level. Every one of the 30+ guests were happy with their horses during our stay.

trail-ride

The first day, everyone I spoke to began by walking only, with wranglers keeping a careful eye on ability level and horse/rider compatibility. We didn’t mind, even though we were eager to trot and lope our horses, because the first ride was a great opportunity to get to know the area and see some of the scenery away from the ranch proper. By our second ride (afternoon of Day 1), our family was trotting, and by Day 2, we were loping (by request…this is not necessary). At another ranch we’d visited, rides started out fast and furious…great for experienced riders but uncomfortable for those who ride only occasionally.

wranglers-three-bars

On subsequent days, we verbalized what type of ride we wanted during the morning check-in with Tyler, whether it be a walking ride, ride with plenty of breaks and play time for kids, medium ride (with trotting and some loping), or fast ride (with more bouts of loping). We rode with our family unit and also with new friends. I absolutely love riding, so I greatly enjoyed the riding program, but individuals who would rather pursue other actives could absolutely do so. My kids loved having their ‘own’ horses for the week, and bonded with them quickly. In fact, even though 13-year-old Calvin, who liked riding fast, ended up with a very slow horse, he didn’t want to switch…he’d learned to love slow Chico!

chico

Dining at Three Bars:

Meals are served at 8 am, noon, and 6:30 pm at Three Bars, and the food is always good. Occasionally during our stay, it was only ok, and sometimes, it was amazing. Full disclosure: I’m not a foodie. Especially during a vacation where we work up such an appetite, I’d honestly rather have good food, and plenty of it, than great food, in tiny, fancy portions.

dining-three-bars

At Three Bars, you get the former. We had no complaints, and always had our fill. The dining staff did an excellent job accommodating my pescetarian dietary needs, as well as others’ gluten-free needs. They can accommodate any type of need, with advanced warning. Breakfast included staples such as egg dishes, hash browns, pancakes, and granola, and there was always cereal, fruit, yogurt, and toast. Coffee was average (if you’re a coffee connoisseur, bring your own!) and water, tea, and coffee was always set out during the day.

Lunch ranged from sandwich fixings to make-your-own-burrito bars, always with freshly-baked cookies and side salads. Dinners ranged from ribs to herb chicken to Italian pastas, always with something for everyone. If you come expecting gourmet fare, you’ll be disappointed, but if your primarily goal is to be served hearty fare, you’ll go away happy. We had brought snacks for our room, but never needed them.

Lodging at Three Bars:

The cabins at Three Bars are very comfortable, visually beautiful, and convenient. Each has a TV with plenty of channels (though we hardly ever turned ours on), coffee service, a full bathroom with tub, WiFi (a godsend since I had to work during the stay), and very cozy beds with high-end linens.

lodging-thee-bars

There are different cabin configurations, but we ended up with two connecting rooms (one with three beds for the kids and a queen bed for me), giving us two bathrooms. Rooms have mini-fridges and cabinet space for snacks, plus plenty of closet space for riding gear and outerwear. Each cabin has a porch with table and chairs out front, all overlooking the main lawn and lodge.

What to know before you go:

st-marys-river

  • Everyone will need riding boots. The good news: boots can be rented from the ranch for $30/stay. This is a great value if you have older kids, as boots are expensive.
  • Everyone will want a cowboy hat. They have them for sale in the store for a reasonable price. We had our ahead of time.
  • Kids under 12 must wear a riding helmet. I felt great about this rule.
  • Remember you’ll need passports or copies of the kids’ birth certificates to get across the Canadian border.
  • Once at the ranch, you don’t need cash other than gratuity. All extra charges will go on a room charge. Tip should be 5-10% of the cost of the vacation, and can be given at the end of the stay.
  • The activities that are not all-inclusive include ATV-riding, shooting, fly fishing, golf, and alcohol from the bar.
  • All riding levels are accommodated. Don’t worry about lack of experience, or having too much experience.
  • The wrangler staff are primarily young people from Canada and Australia. All are wonderful, and will make your kids feel special.
  • Activities such as mountain biking, fishing, golf, and ATV riding can be scheduled at any time. Shooting sports and rafting are scheduled for set times.
  • Kids can participate in shooting sports, regardless of experience. As non-gun-owners, we felt the experience was very safe and positive, with an emphasis on respect for guns.
  • Bring several pairs of jeans per person, and plan to do laundry!
  • Expect to miss your horse when you leave!

We experienced Three Bars Ranch as guests of the ranch, for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own.

Black Butte Ranch: home base for Central Oregon outdoor recreation

Every time we visit Central Oregon, we discover yet another family-friendly resort. While some resorts are best for golf vacations, and others ski or luxury vacations, Black Butte Ranch just may come out on top for all-around outdoor recreation amid family-friendly conveniences.

black-butte-lodge

Located just outside Sisters, Oregon (approximately 40 minutes from Bend), Black Butte Ranch is comprised primary of vacation homes and cabins, though there are some condos to be had. This large community is set on two golf courses, with a lovely lodge (housing dining), a rec building, an outdoor activity rental shop, renting bikes in summer and snowshoes and cross country skis in winter, and three pool and sport complexes. Bike paths traverse the entire property, and an on-site stable offers horseback riding in the summer months.

Without even leaving Black Butte Ranch, families can keep their days filled with outdoor activities ranging from bike riding to tennis, golf, swimming, and walking. (This may be ideal for families with young kids.) Off property, excellent mountain biking trails can be found in nearby Sisters in the Deschutes National Forest, as well as hiking trails, lake swimming and kayaking, whitewater rafting, and cave spelunking. Families can explore all of the above on their own, or use one of several tour operators in the region (our pick is Wanderlust Tours).

black-butte-lodge-in-winter

While many Central Oregon resorts are adjacent to outdoor recreation, Black Butte offers the most in close proximity, outside the metro area of Bend. If you’re looking to be close to Bend and Mt. Bachelor, Black Butte is not the most convenient, but if you plan to spend full days in the Deschutes National Forest and have less need for an easy commute to Bend, this is the place!

mt-bachelor-oregon

We visited in early winter, and while we brought our snowshoes, the necessary six inches of snow wasn’t yet on the ground to permit the sport on Black Butte property. Good thing Hoodoo Ski Area is only 13 miles away. When Hoodoo isn’t up and running (this resort does not make its own snow, and depends on Mother Nature), Mt. Bachelor is less than one hour away by car. We spent one day enjoying the pool and walking paths of the resort, and the other at Mt. Bachelor at our visit, with evening entertainment ranging from dinner and a movie in Sisters (more on that below) and a quiet evening in our vacation home.

Vacation Houses:

We stayed in a beautiful three-bedroom home in Black Butte Ranch that backed right up to national forest service land, allowing our boys plenty of room to play. Our home had a full kitchen, of course, as well as a full washer and dryer, lots of storage space for our skis (or golf clubs in summer), a private hot tub, a wide deck overlooking the forest, and a cozy fireplace. It served as the perfect home base for outdoor recreation, and when we wanted to stay ‘closer to home’, swimming and exercise facilities were a five minute drive away.

black-butte-vacation-home

Resort amenities:

There are no fewer than three recreation centers at Black Butte. The biggest is at Glaze Meadow, which includes tennis courts, a fitness facility (with exercise classes), a large outdoor pool and toddler splash pad area (open in summer), a large indoor pool with slide (open year-round), hot tubs, and steam room. The Black Butte spa is also located on-site. Also at Glaze Meadow is a large children’s playground with a fun rock climbing structure.

black-butte-ranch-swimming

The Black Butte Stables are open during the summer months, and at the main lodge area, summer offers bike rentals. A basketball court is located near the main lodge (as is a rec barn with small arcade). A small general store is also on-site, plus sports shops at Glaze Meadow and the golf clubhouses.

Dining:

We loved breakfast at the Black Butte Ranch Lodge dining room! Eat around 9 am, and you’ll be full until dinner! From blueberry pancakes to salmon and dill omelets, breakfast is served in the lodge dining room overlooking the lake for wonderful views in every season. The dining room is also open for lunch and dinner year-round. Tip: Call the dining room and order take-and-bake pizza, which can be picked up and baked in your vacation home. Pizzas are $11-15, large in size, and very convenient!

black-butte-lodge-dining-room

During the summer months, several additional dining options exist at the golf clubhouses, and in winter, guests can opt between the lodge dining room and the Glaze Meadow Golf Shop. Families will most likely cook most of their own food in vacation home kitchens (grab groceries at the Ray’s in Sisters), but good family-friendly dining also exists off-property. Our picks: the dining room at The Lodge at Suttle Lake (10 minutes away) and Bronco Bill’s in Sisters (10 minutes in the other direction). If you head into Sisters for dinner, consider buying tickets to the Sisters Movie Housefor an unique movie experience. This intimate theater serves high-quailty snacks and even IPA brews and local wines.

Rates:

Nightly rates vary greatly at Black Butte Ranch (depending on the size of your vacation home or condo). Start by perusing Black Butte’s great package deals. We sampled the ’Pray for Snow’ package, which included lift tickets to Hoodoo, movie tickets to Sisters Movie House, and a Black Butte Ranch credit (which we used for pizza). Deals abound in every season.

Directions:

Black Butte Ranch is located on Highway 20 ten minutes outside of Sisters, Oregon. It is 45 minutes from Bend and 2 hours from Salem, Oregon.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Black Butte Ranch as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

The Lodge at Running Y Ranch: a Holiday Inn Resort in Southern Oregon

In remote Southern Oregon at the edge of the Cascades, just outside the small town of Klamath River, The Running Y Ranch offers relaxation and fun for families. This golf community of private homes, condos, and guest rooms is small enough to feel cozy, yet large enough to have everything families want: high-end dining, recreation, pampering, and outdoor adventure. The property is within easy driving distance of mountain lakes, Crater Lake National Park, and world-class fly fishing.

lodge at running y

The Lodge at Running Y:

Guests will want to book at The Lodge at Running Y, a Holiday Inn Resort property. This lodge reflects the feel of the rest of the property: it’s intimate without being small. The spacious lobby–which is modern and fresh–is appointed with fireplace, cozy chairs, and an outdoor recreation center (more on that below), and the grounds include deck and lawn space with seating overlooking the resort, nice landscaping, and beautiful golf course and Klamath Basin views.

Running Y lobby

We stayed in two adjoining standard rooms, appointed with Holiday Inn Resort touches (we love the pillows and beds of this brand). Rooms include mini-fridges and microwaves for easy breakfast preparation and snacking, plus free wifi, decent coffee, and spacious bathrooms. (Some rooms have only a shower while others have shower/tub combination.) The only thing our rooms lacked that we missed: balconies on which to enjoy the nice views. From our windows, we saw eagles, pelicans, and deer during out visit.

running y ranch

Golf:

Golf is a central sport at The Running Y, but not as much part of the lifeblood of the resort as at some other Oregon resorts. Meaning, if you don’t golf, you won’t feel as though you’re missing the main aspect of the property. There is one 18-hole Arnold Palmer-designed course, which is challenging and beautiful. We took the kids out on the links for 9 holes, and everyone at the golf clubhouse from the golf pro to the starter was very friendly and welcoming to kids on the course. The other golfers sharing the course with us that day were relaxed and casual (no uptight golfers on our visit!) and we were able to relax and let the kids play at their pace for the most part (not always true everywhere). With no fewer than five tee boxes, there was a tee for everyone to play his own game. If you get hungry on the course, there’s both a mobile snack cart which makes an appearance or two, plus a sandwich and hot dog counter at the clubhouse for lunch at the turn.

Also of note: take the kids for a practice run on the Running Y putting course: it’s a very fun 18 hole course that’s perfect for a warm-up the day before golfing or in place of golfing for young kids!

Running Y Ranch pool

Sports Center:

When not golfing, your whole family will want to be at the Running Y sports center. Located adjacent to the lodge, this complex includes a beautiful indoor pool, hot tub, and children’s wading pool, a sauna, nice locker rooms, tennis courts, an outdoor basketball court, a ping pong table, pool table, and air hockey table. There’s also a children’s playground on the grounds, and sun decks with lounge chairs. The Sports Center is also home to a cardio room, exercise room holding daily classes, and the spa. The center is open early and stays open late, making it the place families gather before the day’s activities and after.

Spa:

The Running Y spa is small, but friendly and of high quality. It lacks a large relaxation room area (though does have a small one), and shares the locker room with the pool, so you don’t feel truly transported into a calming environment until you’re in the treatment rooms, but once there, you’re certainly taken care of. Guests can enjoy massage services, facials, pedicures, manicures, and waxing services, plus there’s a hair salon with stylist. I opted for a much-needed pedicure and manicure after days on the road hiking, biking, and swimming, and thoroughly enjoyed my time with Stephanie: she was a great source of information on the resort and area, plus simply great company.

Ruddy Duck at the Running Y

Dining:

The Ruddy Duck is located just off the lobby of the Lodge at the Running Y, and serves breakfast and dinner in a warm, casual environment. The views onto the golf course are lovely, and deck seating in summer allows families to stay out-of-doors at dinnertime to continue watching for swooping eagles and other wildlife.Kids eat free off the kids’ menu at the Ruddy Duck when dining with an adult and staying at the lodge (part of a larger Holiday Inn Resort program) and the food is excellent. Dinner is on the costly side for a family (thank goodness for the free kids’ meals) but wonderfully prepared: we recommend the salmon and the tri-tip sandwich most. Breakfast is very affordable and delicious, ranging from pancakes and eggs to breakfast burritos and french toast. There’s a full bar in the evenings, and a small store on-property if you need basic supplies.

Running Y ranch

Nature Programs:

The Running Y is situated in the heart of the Klamath Basin, adjacent to the very large Klamath Lake and many hiking trails and scenic vistas. The ranch plays host to a number of outdoor opportunities throughout the year, including complimentary birding presentations and guided hikes through arrangements with local chapters of the Audabon Society and land trust. During our visit, we were lucky enough to be present for the opening hike of the Skillet Handle trail, which Running Y residents and staff cleared themselves. We watched a birding slideshow at the lodge to better acquaint ourselves with what birds we’d view on the trail, then drove a short distance from the lodge to the trailhead. The trail itself was moderate, and now that we know where it is, we can easily hike it solo on our next visit. To hike the 2 mile Skillet Handle, drive past the pro shop over the top of the hill to the far side of the resort property by the lake. The parking lot is marked. Where the utility road splits, take the single track trail.

Partnership with Roe Outfitters;

For families looking for more outdoor adventure while in the Klamath Basin, The Running Y offers multiple packages with Roe Outfitters. This local outdoor company has been leading trips in the area for 30 years, and owner Darren Roe is a pro in every sense of the word. Roe offers guided fishing trips, river rafting on both the Klamath and the Rogue rivers, and boating on Klamath Lake. We joined Darren Roe for his sunset cruise on the lake, which I told him afterword should be called an ‘adventure cruise’: everything about the excursion was high-energy, fast-paced, and big on fun. His answer was the trademark of any good outdoor operation: the cruise is adapted to suit the guests, and he knew our school-aged boys would love an active experience. He was right. We learned a lot about this unique lake during our cruise, but what the boys remember most: helping to drive the 22 foot jet boat, seeing bald eagles and pelicans, and getting splashed on quick turns.

klamath lake

Date last visited: June 2013

Distance from the interstate: Right off Highway 97 in Klamath Falls, and directly on Highway 140.

Room rates: At the time of our visit, rates for a double bed room were $199.

Directions: The Running Y is located at 5500 Running Y Road. From Bend, take Highway 97 to Highway 140 (toward Medford). From I-5 in California, exit at Medford and take 140.

Disclaimer: we experienced The Lodge at Running Y as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. This hospitality came with no expectation of a positive review.

South on Dwellable

A stay at Central Oregon’s Kah-Nee-Ta Resort and Spa

Located on the Warm Springs reservation (home of the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs) in the high desert of Central Oregon, Kah-Nee-Ta Resort and Spa offers a blend of tribal culture and family fun. This is not a luxury resort, but rather a family-friendly getaway that delivers on the simple pleasures of sunny skies, hot springs-fed swimming, outdoor recreation, and camping. There’s lodging for every budget at Kah-Nee-Ta, and varied vacation experiences can be had. Families can opt to simply play the days away in the sunshine, or, with the inclusion of an excellent museum, tribal dances, and seasonal tribal events, the culture of the Warm Springs, Wasco, and Paiute people can be felt here.

kahneeta swimming

We opted for a combination of both playtime and cultural education when we visited on a spring weekend in May. (Central Oregon is known for their 300+ days of sunshine, but we landed one of the few rainy ones…clearly drew the short straw.) Even so, we spent hours at a time swimming in the hot-springs fed pool, hiked several on-site trails, golfed, enjoyed a spa treatment, and tasted authentically cooked salmon…all in two days. Had we more time, we could have rented kayaks, taken a whitewater rafting tour, or ridden bikes around the resort. Families can certainly make Kah-Nee-Ta a day trip from Portland or Bend, but an overnight is well-justified, especially during the warmer summer months when camping is most comfortable.

On-site recreation and activities:

The pool: The biggest draw at Kah-Nee-Ta is the hot springs-fed pool system. The Village Pool includes what amounts to three pools in one: a shallow end with small slide, room for inflatables and water sprays, a middle pool into which the larger slides feed, and a very large deep end. Adjacent are a kiddie pool and two hot tubs (one of which is adults-only). Hot springs water is piped into all pools, and while the resort varies the temperature by season, it’s decidedly warm. On our  cool May visit, jumping into the main pool felt like jumping into a warm tub. The water is so comfortable, in fact, that we swam for hours without getting out. The two larger tube slides are several stories high (if not higher) and have a height restriction of 48″ and up. Note: guests of Kah-Nee-Ta receive Village pool passes for the length of their stay, but this does not include access to the slides. Slide passes are $4 extra. This fact is a negative in our book: it felt like nickel-and-diming resort guests. Our advice: buy slide passes for the kids, but skip them for yourselves.

Horseback riding: The Kah-Nee-Ta stables are adjacent to the Village, and offer trail rides multiple times per day. We opted for a one hour ride, which we enjoyed with one guide and one assistant. The stables are owned by a local tribal family, and their horses are broken mustangs from the region (fun fact: wild horses still roam here). Our ride took us along the Kah-Nee-Ta trail system along the bluffs overlooking the resort and surrounding plateaus. The experience was more casual than most resort trail riding tours, but priced very reasonably.

kahneeta horseback riding

Golf: The Kah-Nee-Ta 18-hole golf course is well-maintained and challenging (without being impossible for families). The course is visually appealing, and even on a busy weekend, it was not crowded. We rented a cart and played just the back nine for an afternoon activity.

Hiking trails: Kah-Nee-Ta maintains a series of three trails starting from the property (grab a color-coded trail map when you check in), which guests can hike. If up for adventure, an unmarked but worn trail from the road across from the Village takes hikers up to a large cave in the nearby bluff. We accessed the cave from the bluff overhead during a longer hike, but it can be more easily accessed directly from below as described.

Spa Wanapine: The Village spa is the place to slip away from the family for a massage or treatment. While not as posh as high-end resort spas, it’s certain relaxing, quiet, and comfortable. Unique to Kah-Nee-Ta is the addition of a 20 minute mineral soak with treatment (for a fee). Guests are led pre-treatment to a private jacuzzi tub filled with hot mineral water from the adjacent hot springs. (Despite loving hot water, I did cool mine down considerably.) 20 minutes proved enough time to soak before treatment.

Museum at Warm Springs: On the way in or out of Kah-Nee-Ta if traveling through Madras and Bend (and only 11 miles out of your way if traveling to and from Portland), the Museum at Warm Springs is a must-do. This award-winning museum takes visitors through the history of the tribes at Warm Springs, from early days to present day. Most interesting for kids are the videos and explanations behind tribal dances still danced today, and the hands-on displays within the museum, including a place to play with hoops used in the dances. Most interesting for adults may be the history of how three distinct Native American tribes came to be located together at the reservation at Warm Springs, and the history of the museum itself, which was built with intertribal cooperation and great grassroots effort nearby 20 years ago.

Casino: Yes, there is a casino associated with the resort; however, it’s located 11 miles away on Highway 26. Because we are not casino-goers, and actually dislike casinos, this was a plus in our book. However, the casino used to be on-site, and website advertising still lists it as such. If you’re planning to patronize the casino, be advised.

kahneeta lodging

Lodging options:

Kah-Nee-Ta is divided into two distinct sections 1/2 mile apart, so pay attention to which you book. The Village is where the kid-centric action is based. The Village rooms, teepees, and RV sites are located here, along with the larger Village pool and water slides, miniature golf course, basketball and volleyball courts, snack bar, store, and spa. The Lodge overlooks the Village from up the highway, and includes tennis courts, the golf course, an additional spa, the only on-site finer dining, and a smaller Lodge Pool (open to Lodge guests only). Where to stay? This depends on what you’re looking for, but a few things to note: 1. due to the RV sites being located at the far end of the Village and the motel-style Village rooms sitting back from the teepee area, we did not find it to be very noisy or overly crowded (on a somewhat busy May weekend) 2. the Village pool and miniature golf course open as late as 10 am, whereas the lodge pool is open by 8 am, so if you have kids who get up early, it may be nice to have the earlier-opening pool at your disposal.

Village rooms: These motel-style rooms are spacious, can include kitchens in some units (we got a Murphy Village Queen with kitchenette adjoined to a standard double queen room for our family of five), and have large enclosed decks/balconies. They are located against the base of the hill within easy walking distance of all Village recreation. While we were perfectly comfortable in our Village rooms during spring, we’d recommend camping during the warmer summer months for a more economical option. (For what you get, Village rooms are overpriced.) Tip: if you want the comfort of a room but don’t want to reserve more than one per night, bring camping pads and sleeping bags and set the kids up outside on the patio…it’s big enough for 2-3 people!

Teepees: Teepees book up fast, so reserve early in summer months! These canvas teepees are large, have a concrete floor, and include an indoor cooking/fireplace space. Families bring their own bedding, mattresses, and other camping gear. Teepees are set fairly close together (not as much room as with traditional camping sites) and are adjacent to the pool.

RV camping: RV camping is furthest out, but still in walking distance of all Village fun. There are 51 sites in grassy, shaded areas.

Lodge rooms: Located in the lodge, lodge rooms vary from standard rooms to suites with kitchens.

kah-nee-ta salmon bake

Dining options:

If teepee camping, RV camping, or staying in kitchen-equipped Village rooms, families will largely want to bring their own food to cook. Do your grocery shopping before you arrive, but note that necessities can be bought at the store next to the pool. The counter-service cafe adjacent to the Village Pool serves burgers, salads, hot dogs, and fries for around $8 per plate. The food is good, and there are BBQ pits and picnic tables in the Village area for additional picnicking. The Lodge offers sit-down dining at Chinook NW Grille, open seasonally. If your visit coincides with one of Kah-Nee-Ta’s Salmon Bakes, it’s well worth the $20 ticket price. Arrive early to watch the salmon cooked in the traditional way outside (at the Lodge), then stay for a full buffet and tribal dancing. We learned more about drum circles and the various tribal dances here than at any other time during our stay or before. The dancing team and drumming circle take the time to educate and include the audience.

kahneeta pool

Room rates:

At the time of our visit, Village double rooms cost $225 per night on weekends, and $155 on weeknights. Teepees started at $69, and RV sites $49. Standard lodge rooms started at $149 on weeknights.

Directions:

Kah-Nee-Ta is located at 6823 Highway 8 on the Warm Springs reservation in Central Oregon. From Portland, travel I-5 to I-84 to Hwy 8. From Bend, take Highway 97 to Highway 138 through Madras to South Warm Springs. Turn right at the Kah-Nee-Tah sign.

Disclaimer: We experienced Kah-Nee-Ta as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. While appreciated, this generosity came with no expectation of a positive review.