Summer in the Sierras: Plumas County CA with kids

For the Pit Stops for Kids family, writing about summer vacations in the Sierra Nevada mountain range, and in particular, Plumas and Sierra counties in California, is quite literally like writing about home. My husband and I both grew up in this alpine area, and love sharing it with other traveling families.

Plumas County is located one hour west of Reno, Nevada and 2.5 hours north of Sacramento, California. Past the foothills of the Gold Country, this summer playground offers alpine recreation in the form of hiking, lake and river swimming, fishing, golfing, and wildlife viewing. If you’re looking for expensive resorts and polished kids’ programs, look elsewhere. Plumas County is steeped in true wilderness: you’ll find rustic lodges, comfortable inns, ample camping, and gorgeous scenery (but the first Starbucks and the first stop light just went in the past few years).

We suggest families make Graeagle, California their home base, as this tiny town east of Quincy on Highway 89 is centrally located to the best hiking, fishing, and golfing. (Plus, it has a frostee freeze to die for on a hot summer day.) From there, explore the network of hiking trails and lakes in the Lakes Basin Recreation Area, go antiquing or hit award-winning links, schedule a horseback ride, or just float lazily in the town’s popular Mill Pond on an inflatable raft. Whatever you do, don’t plan to leave for at least a week!

Where to stay: This depends on the type of vacation you’re looking for. If you’re camping, expect only bare bones amenities (pit toilets and communal running water are the standard), a drawback that’s more than made up for by the total immersion in your wilderness surroundings. Our favorite campground is Lakes Basin, a short drive from Graeagle up Gold Lake Highway. If you’re looking for a motel, the River Pines Resort offers both motel rooms and weekly home rentals.

What to do: Where to start?!

Hiking and lakes: Families will love exploring all the beautiful alpine lakes this region offers. The gateway to our favorite lakes (connected by a network of hiking trails) starts from Lakes Basin Campground at the Lakes Basin Recreational Area (seven miles up Gold Lake Highway from Graeagle, follow signs). From there you’ll find trails ranging from easy to moderate to a variety of great swimming lakes. Pack a lunch and towels in a backpack and make an afternoon of it!

For lakes accessed by car, consider Sand Pond (five additional miles up Gold Lake Road near the intersection of Highway 40), where the shallow depths and sandy bottom are perfect for younger kids. A few miles away via surface road (follow signs from Gold Lake Road) lies Packer Lake, which boasts picnic sites, a swimming platform, and a lodge from which families can order lunch to go. (Order their milk shakes!)

Right in town, you’ll find the Mill Pond, a local swimming favorite surrounded by grass, quaint shops, and a snow-cone hut. Bring your inflatables and sunscreen!

Local history:

Twenty minutes away from Graeagle by car lies the historical gold mining town of Johnsville, CA (up the Graeagle/Johnsville Road). Tour the stamp mill and a period home at Plumas Eureka State Park, then learn about the area’s mining past at the museum.

If you have kids interested in trains, drive ten minutes from Graeagle up Highway 70 to Portola, where you’ll find the

Family fun: Graeagle is known for its golfing and fishing. Anyone in town can point you in the direction of the best courses, and the same goes for fishing holes. Our favorite places to drop a line with kids are the Feather River (near Portola) and the Yuba River (near Bassett’s Station on Highway 49).

Where to eat: For family fare, Gumba’s Pizza in nearby Blairsden CA can’t be beat. In summer, sit on the deck while the kids play air hockey in the game room. The Graeagle Frostee is also a hot spot in summer (plan for a line during the lunch rush), and a fun miniature golf course is located right next door. For a nice night out, try the dining room at Graeagle Lodge (20 minutes up Gold Lake Road).

Find more information on area lodges and campgrounds!

Summer in the Sierras: guide to rustic lodges

The term ‘mountain lodge’ can mean many things to traveling families. It can conjure up images ranging from five-star luxury to bare bones accommodation, swimming pools and children’s programs to communal meals and do-it-yourself maid service. We love it all, but when we truly want to escape civilization and immerse ourselves in nature, we book a week at one of the following family-owned and operated lodges in Plumas and Sierra counties, California.


With dozens of ice-blue mountain lakes, hundreds of miles of hiking trails (including the famous Pacific Crest Trail), and stunning scenery, this region of the Sierra Nevada mountains in Northern California is rich with summer lodges. Amenities vary, but as a rule, you can expect to get a little dirty and have a lot of fun. All the lodges listed below provide comfortable cabins, lake or creekside access, showers and bathrooms, and electricity. Some serve meals, but to my knowledge (and trust me, I’ve tried), none offer reliable wi-fi. Instead, you’ll find crisp mountain air (at 6000 feet!), miles of wilderness in all directions, and every opportunity for family together-ness. And of course, all of them come Pit Stops for Kids approved–we’ve spent time at each and every one of them!

Gold Lake Lodge: Despite its name, this lodge doesn’t actually sit lakeside. Instead, guests walk a short trail to the shore of Gold Lake, which is just fine in our book, as Gold Lake is the largest of the area lakes, and therefore the most crowded in summer. (As it’s also the only lake in the area allowing motorized boats, this is the place to be if you’re towing your own craft.) The lodge itself is tucked in a forest adjacent to the lake, and features a two large free-standing buildings surrounded by small, individual cabins. The two buildings house the lodge recreational room (complete with board games, ping-pong, and a fireplace) and dining room. One of the only area lodges to include breakfast and dinner in their cabin rates, we recommend Gold Lake Lodge if prepared meals are a must. Cabins are comfortable but small. Expect heat, but no air conditioning (rarely needed) and bathrooms in most cabins. Our family’s only complaint: the central areas between cabins at Gold Lake Lodge can become dusty late in summer, causing more dirty laundry than strictly necessary! Rates: Cabins start at $235 for double occupancy (and includes breakfast, dinner, and lunch on the trail).

Packer Lake Lodge: Located directly lakeside at one of the area’s most stunning lakes, Packer Lake Lodge offers great swimming (with a floating swim platform) and rowboat and canoe rentals. We love that Packer Lake is small enough for kids to paddle around unaided (with life jackets, of course) and that the small size keeps day trippers to a minimum. The Packer Lake Lodge Restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and offers kid-friendly fare as well as steaks, burgers, and the like. Rates: cabins with kitchen and bathroom start at $175 a night or $1100 a week. Rates do not include meals.


Elwell Lakes Lodge: Elwell Lakes Lodge is unique in that it’s not situated near any particular lake, but rather all of them, as the lodge is directly connected to the Lakes Basin Recreational Area’s network of hiking trails. We love that visitors can hit the trail right from their front door and be at any of half a dozen mountain lakes within minutes (or a few miles). Young kids can hike to the closer lakes, while older kids and teens will want to try to conquer the whole ‘loop’, stopping to jump into icy waters every mile or so. Elwell offers a large main recreational room and comfortable upper lobby with an old-fashioned wooden wrap-around deck with fabulous views. Take a book and an snack up there, find a rocking chair, and you’ll never want to come down! Cabins vary from very rustic tent cabins (with communal bathroom) to three-room cabins with multiple beds and in-suite bathrooms. The only caveat: meals are not served. At the time of our last visit, the lodge did organize a guest-wide potluck meal that was a lot of fun, and all cabins have kitchenettes and BBQs. Rates: Cabin rates start at $118 (or $750 per week).

Gray Eagle Lodge: This lodge is closest in proximity to the town of Graeagle, and is also, in our opinion, the best-appointed. Visitors will find a full-service restaurant, beautiful lodge buildings, and a scattering of cabins creekside. Like Elwell Lakes Lodge, trails can be found right on-site, and during July and August, kids will love Gray Eagle Lodge’s swimming hole and waterfall. Cabins range in size and pricing, but you can be sure there’s something for every sized family. Rates: Cabin rates start at $280 a night.


Sardine Lake Resort: Sardine Lake Resort is located in what I believe to be the most beautiful spot in the Sierra Nevada. (And yes, I know that’s saying a lot.) Situated right on the shores of Upper Sardine Lake, this resort only offers nine cabins, a plus for guests (if you can get a reservation). You can also rent rowboats by the day or half-day (the fishing is supposed to be the best in the area) and young families will want to walk the quarter mile to Sand Pond, where the water is shallow and warm with a nice sandy bottom and plenty of picnic areas. The views here are fantastic, as is the food (served daily at the Sardine Lake Lodge Dining Room). Even if you don’t stay here, I recommend stopping in for an evening meal to take in the view. Rates vary. Contact the resort directly at (530) 862-1196.

No matter where you choose to stay, I guarantee you’ll spend your days exploring some of the most beautiful mountains you’ll ever see, and your nights together as a family, playing cards and board games by the fire, reading, or just catching up on your rest! Most lodges book by the week (Gold Lake Lodge is an exception), and most fill up fast: plan ahead and book early!