Hiking in Tofino BC: Visiting Meares Island with Remote Passages

For families looking for a budget-friendly Tofino excursion or are simply low on time, Remote Passages offers a 1.5 hour round-trip Vancouver Island hiking adventure of Big Tree Trail on nearby Meares Island.

Remote Passages

Hiking in Tofino:

Located just a few fun Zodiac boat turns from the Remote Passages boat dock, Meares Island is uninhabited and protected by a local First Nations land conservation agency. Remote Passages (and several other local outfits, including Tofino Water Taxi) will drop passengers off at the start of a 400 meter (approximately 1/4 mile) boardwalk, which families follow self-guided as it winds deep into the temperate rain forest.

remote passages

The boardwalk is old in some places (originally built in the ’80s and quite weather-beaten), new in others (you can smell the fresh cedar), so kids shouldn’t run. We saw one visitor put his foot straight through a rotted plank. We met several of the First Nations Meares Island protectors while we hiked; they were working on upgrades to the boardwalk, and were very eager to tell us about their work preserving this island. The way can be slippery at times, unstable in others, and always majestically beautiful. For young kids, it truly feels like an adventure, and older kids will enjoy the constant challenge of the walk.

As you go, you’re looking for several points of interest. Near the start of the boardwalk stands a 900-year-old red cedar, and farther along, a small creek crossing leads to a set of stairs and a small lookout over a narrow bay. Look for kayakers coming in to hike the island here. A little farther on, you arrive at the end of the trail, which features the oldest cedar: 1600 years old. It’s called the Hanging Garden, and it’s easy to see why: trees are shooting out of this tree, and dropping from nearly all branches are ferns and other beautiful hanging plants. The sunlight filters through, and it’s truly a awe-inspiring sight.

hanging garden tree

Remote Passages gives visitors 1.5 hours to tour the island, which may be a bit long, since the boardwalk really only takes 45 minutes to tour, and visitors are asked not to explore off the walk (in order to preserve vegetation). Our kids enjoyed navigating part of the boardwalk a second time while we waited, or you could find a spot in the sun (or under the canopy of trees out of the rain, as they case may be) by the docking area.

meares island

Tip: Be sure to pack all trash out, and don’t allow children to climb on the trunks of the trees; they’re working hard to protect them. Bring rain gear or light jackets, but this is a great activity for when the weather is rainy; the canopy will shield you! The boat ride to and from is only 5 minutes, but will be a thrill for young kids if they haven’t experienced the small and fast Zodiac boat yet.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the interstate:

Right off Highway 4 in Tofino.

Rates:

The Meares Island transfer is a quite affordable way to have a fun boat ride and great hike you can’t access otherwise. At the time of my visit, rates were $20 per person for the drop-off/pick-up for kids and adults. If you’re more ambitious, Remote Passages offers a half-day kayaking tour that includes a guided walk through Meares Island. Kids don’t have to be strong paddlers, but should be old enough to spend the whole morning or afternoon on the water.

Directions:

Find Remote Passages at the bottom of Wharf Street at Meares Landing, right in the heart of Tofino.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my family and I experienced Meares Island at no charge, for the purpose of review. While I appreciate this opportunity to pass on information to my readers, it came with no expectation of a positive review.

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Tofino whale watching with Remote Passages

I’d heard the West Coast of Vancouver Island called the Galapagos of the Northwest, and never is that more apparent than while on the water, whether families are exploring tide pools, kayaking, or in this case, on the open ocean on a Remote Passages whale watch in Tofino BC.

tofino whale watch

Tofino whale watching:

Our Tofino whale watch with Remote Passages just may have been the crown jewel on the treasure that was our Vancouver Island trip. Over 2 1/2 hours long, they call it a Whale Watch Plus, and once you’ve experienced it, it’s obvious why: not only did we enjoy a gray and humpback whale watch, but also observed seals, sea lions, sea otters, puffins, sea stars, bald eagles, and jellyfish (and I’m probably forgetting something). We were there in time to ‘meet’ Tofino’s resident whales, but in migratory seasons, they’re even more abundant (and can include orcas). Note: all photos in this post are actual documentation of wildlife viewed, taken by me.

remote passages

In addition to the abundance of wildlife viewed, what set our Remote Passages whale watch apart from any we’d experienced before is their Zodiac boat transportation and their guide expertise. Zodiacs seat only 12-14 passengers, and are open-air (a closed cabin one is available as well), allowing for unobstructed 360 degree views of the bay, harbor, and open sea. Unlike larger whale watch vessels, in which one side of the boat sees a spout and the other misses out (or runs scrambling to see), on a Zodiac, you’re literally right on the water, able to see everything. (This makes it ideal for young kids.)

remote passages

Our experience started at 8:30 am for our 9 am whale watch, during which we were shown an orientation video that described the wildlife and ecosystem of the Tofino area and the Clayoquot Sound. We then donned full expedition jump suits for our journey. These are a full jacket and pant combo, so guests don’t really need to worry about what to wear on their whale watch. Just make sure you’re in sturdy shoes and have a light sweatshirt or long-sleeved shirt on under. The adult version has a built-in life jacket, and the kids’ version is a two-part ensemble: pants and jacket, with a regular life jacket on over. Remote Passages also offers fleece gloves and knit hats if desired.

remote passages

humpback whale

Our captain and guide, Tyson, guided us onto the Zodiac, where we all had a perfect view of the ocean and surrounding (breathtaking) landscape. We cruised first in-between the small islands dotted around the sound, where Tyson stopped to show us the huge kelp beds whales like to feed on. Almost immediately, we saw the spout of a gray whale. Since whales typically spout and rise above the water 3-4 times before diving deep, we stayed close to view it for about 15 minutes, cutting off the engine and floating peacefully as we watched the whale rise and fall beautifully. I can’t tell you how wonderful it was for Toby, age 7, to be able to see the whale so easily; he’s usually scrambling for a better view for things like this, since he’s the shortest person in most groups. There was no stress to see, no rush to get anywhere, and we all just oohed and awed as Tyson told us more about these amazing animals. (Fun fact: many of the same whales return to Tofino year after year, and up to 200 stay here all season while their counterparts migrate farther north. Remote Passages guides can identify individual whales by the pattern of their barnacles on their backs. The kids had fun learning their names…yes, they name them!)

seals viewed with Remote Passages

remote passages whale watch

After a time, we left our friendly gray whale to explore more of the outer islands, where we could float right up near the rocky shore to spot jellies, sea stars, and an whole colony of seals. We watched their heads pop out of the water mere feet from us, and observed a dispute between two males on the rocks. Farther on, we sat still to photograph a set of four puffins floating on the sea, and caught a rare glimpse of a sea otter.

puffins on the water in Tofino

sea lion in Tofino

We headed out to open ocean in search of humpback whales, and were rewarded with four, two of which were a mother and calf. Tyson explained that ‘humpies’ were more likely to ‘fluke’ (show their tales as they dive deep), which we saw several times. We hung out with them for a time before needing to head back to the dock.

zodiac boat whale watch

We had fine weather, but should you not, the small size of the Zodiac still allows for good viewing, though the water may be choppier. The suits keep you very warm, even in the wind while the boat is moving fast (though you’ll definitely want the gloves in cold weather). Once you return to the dock, hot peppermint tea awaits you.

Tips: You’ll want everyone in your party to be wearing sunscreen on their faces, and sunglasses are helpful. No matter the weather, the glare from the water is significant. Hats may fly off; I suggest using their knit caps that stay on better. The water was smooth they day of our visit, but if it’s choppy, captains carry seasickness remedies. We told ours that Calvin was prone, and he checked on him several times to make sure he wasn’t uncomfortable. (He was fine.)

Distance from the interstate:

Remote Passages is right off Highway 4 in Tofino.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Rates and reservations:

A whale watch is not cheap, so may need to be budgeted for. If you can only experience one Tofino-area excursion, my kids were split between a kayak tour of the intertidal zone or a whale watch. Both are offered by Remote Passages. For the most wildlife viewed, however, a whale watch can’t be beat. Rates are $69 for kids, and $89 for adults at the time of our visit.

Other excursions offered:

If a whale watch is not in your budget, or if you have very young kids who may not be up for 2 1/2 hours on the water, a great option is Remote Passages Meares Island drop-off. Only $20 per person, families enjoy at short (5 minute) Zodiac ride to take the self-guided Meares Island boardwalk rain forest trail. Alternatively, Remote Passages’ Coastal Bear Watch (also 2 1/2 hours) hugs the coastline of nearby islands to spot bears, and also other intertidal zone wildlife and eagles, seals, and shore birds. Their Hot Springs Explorer takes visitors all the way to to a natural hot springs in the ancient rain forest, but as this tour is 7 hours long, it’s best saved for older children and adults.

Directions:

Remote Passages is located at the bottom of Wharf Street, off Main. It’s easy to find!

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