Rome travel tips - Pitstops for Kids

Best restaurants in Rome for non-foodies (plus eating in Italy tips):

June 6, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Eating in Italy? You’re in for a treat! After eating our way through the country, I am here for you with tips for dining in Italy with kids, plus our picks for the best restaurants in Rome. Note: for Florence dining recommendations, read our Three Days in Florence with Kids article.

Best restaurants in Rome (by category):

Pizza:

Pizza Forum: This restaurant has a boring name, and looks and sounds touristy, but was recommended to us by our Italian tour guide. She was not wrong. In fact, while it’s located in a very touristy zone near the Forum, it was filling up with locals when we got there at 2 pm.

Panettoni: Located in the Trastevere area, we thought Panettoni served the best of the traditional Roman variety of pizza: it was light, thin, and flavorful.

Honestly, every other pizzeria in Rome calls itself the best. (Not unlike New York City pizza joints, actually.) Just about anywhere, you’ll find good pizza, especially if you stick to the basics. Really. Enjoy.

Trattorias:

Armando al Pantheon: this little place is big on ambiance, in a perfect location for dining after an evening of souvenir shopping around the Pantheon. You can even visit Piazza Navona first, then dip out of that expensive dining area to pay much less for better food here.

Ristorante Pizzeria Imperiale (Largo Corrado Ricci, 37, by Coloseum): Another spot along the busy Colosseum and Forum area, this place as a nice outdoor patio (heated in winter), great seafood dishes, and above average pizza.

Cuccagna 14 (Via della Cuccagna): This bright and cheery trattoria just outside of Piazza Navona won us over with it’s twinkling lights and warm ambiance. Their bruschetta and antipasto was sourced completely by a local farm, and their lasagna was to die for.

Upscale Trattorias:

Il Bacaro: A super-friendly place near the Pantheon, we had great antipasto here and inventive second courses.

Ad Hoc: this cozy little hole-in-the-wall wine bar off Piazza Populo isn’t great for big families, but they can easily accommodate a group of four or less. (I’m sure they can accommodate more, but it would be a squeeze for you and the other diners.)

Faciolaro Ristorante Pizzeria (via dei Pastini by Pantheon): We ate one of our favorite meals here on New Year’s Eve. The grilled steak was a group favorite, and I loved the homemade pasta and excellent artichokes. Their open kitchen is fun, too…ask to sit in the dining area near it.

Gelato, coffee, and dessert:

There’s a little cafe right on the corner of the Jewish Ghetto by Piazza Venicia that serves excellent pastry and macchiato. Ask for the puff pastry with whipped cream. They’ll slice it for you on the spot, fill it with cream, and drizzle it with chocolate.

Cremeria Monteforte: I first found this gelato hot-spot ten years ago on my first trip to Rome. It was so good, I came back for more (Rick Steves swears by it, too). It’s located directly on the piazza of the Pantheon. Sit outside and eat with a view!

Come il Latte (Via Silvio Spaventa, 24): this place by Repubblica has some of the most authentic and homemade gelato in Rome. Plus, you can get flavored whipped cream on top.

Venchi: There are actually many Venchi shops across Italy, and the brand is a solid pick. Look for flowing chocolat calda (hot chocolate) and chocolate candies as well. We found one by the Spanish Steps, but youll see them elsewhere, too.

Note: Right off Piazza Navona, there’s a very average gelato shop with a very extraordinary server. I wish I could remember the name of the place, but it’s located on the far end of the piazza. We assume the server was the owner, because he was very animated, enthusiastic, and welcoming. He joked with the kids, added extra scoops to cones, and smiled at everyone who came in. This older gentleman made our night!

Rome dining tips:

Finding exact restaurant recommendations can be frustrating, since the streets are not in a grid pattern and you’ll likely be meandering until you’re hungry. Our rule of thumb: once you’ve found any major attraction or piazza, enjoy it, then walk one block down any connecting street for the best dining options. The restaurants directly on the piazzas will be higher priced and probably touristy, but just a matter of yards away, smaller, tucked away establishments beckon. This is your sweet spot.

Don’t overlook specialty stores and groceries. Look for meat and cheese counters where you can put together your own antipasto plate to eat at home, or make a picnic out of foods at pasta shops and wine bars.

Florence tips:

Florence and the great Tuscany region is known for their beef and spinach as well as their wine. If you order something in the ‘Florentine style’, it’s likely with spinach. And this is not the canned PopEye variety…you’re in for a treat. If ordering steak, as my teens love to do, be sure to ask how big it actually is. In Florence, it’s often sold (even in restaurants) by the kilogram. It’s not unusual for the steak to be the size of the dinner plate. Enjoy!

Florence can get very touristy, but head over the Ponte Vecchio and you’ll be in fewer crowds and find better prices. Enjoy afternoon gelato, and you may get away with simple antipasto in your room for a the kids’ dinner hour. There’s an upscale grocery store with an excellent cheese and meat counter located right over the bridge. Turn left at the second street and look for the blue sign.

General tips for eating in Italy:

During our trip through Florence, Pisa, Rome, and Naples, we found the following to be true nearly everywhere:

Almost all restaurants around tourist areas will provide menus or menu boards out front. Look through prices before you’re pressured to go in. Primi or pasta courses in good trattorias will be in the 8-12 euro per person range. Secondi courses can reach 20-30 euros per person. There’s no need to order both a first and second course. We liked to order one antipasto plate for the table (see appetizer tip below) and one plate (primi, secondi, or pizza) per person.
Head to trattorias (cafes, casual) but don’t be afraid to venture into osterias (wine bars, pubs). Both are kid-friendly. In fact, just about everything is kid-friendly when it comes to the Italian food scene.
When ordering, beware of saying yes to suggested appetizers ‘for the table’. In Italy, this often means one per every person at the table (with the price multiplied accordingly). We made this mistake at a adorable trattoria near Piazza Navona when we ordered the suggested bruccetta. It was a happy mistake, as the plate was delicious, but still cost us an extra 25 euros.
Buy water for the table by the liter. Ditto for wine, if you’re on a budget. Water doesn’t come to the table automatically or complimentarily. Ordering it per person can be up to 2,50 euro a glass. Alternatively, a liter of water (size of an extra large water bottle) is usually around 3,50. We usually buy a few of these for the table, since we’re used to drinking a lot of water with our meals.
Wine is cheap and plentiful. Enjoy. We like to get a half liter or liter for the table, depending on how many adults will be drinking. Note for parents of teens: the legal drinking age is 16 (and younger kids will not be frowned upon for drinking wine either, FYI).
Soda, on the other hand, is often just as expensive as wine, and sometimes as expensive as water. When we want soda, which isn’t too often, we buy it by the liter in the grocery store, and let the kids drink it during pre-dinner ‘aperitif’.
So what IS aperitif? This is the Italian version of happy hour, but more refined. It’s usually between 6 pm and 8 pm, and involves wine or a cocktail intended to open the digestive track for the later dinner meal. It often comes with antipasto-type dishes. We found that with kids in tow, we didn’t bother going out for aperitif, but we did enjoy our own version in our rental apartment. We bought cheese, crackers, and salami in the grocery store, and paired them with wine for mom and dad and soda or juice for the kids. This tided us over until 8 pm or later for dinner out.
In and around the tourist hot spots in Rome and Florence, you’ll be hard-pressed to find restaurant staff who do not speak enough English to get you by. Even the less touristy establishments can help you pick out what you want to eat, and without exception, we found all restaurants to be friendly to us as Americans bumbling with our Italian.

What are your top tips for dining in Italy? I’d love to hear them!

Exploring Pompeii with kids

April 11, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

The ancient city of Pompeii, under the looming shadow of (what remains of) Mount Vesuvius, was not precisely as we imagined it. The layout, exhibits, and interpretive materials were not clearly marked, and it took some persistence to find what we were looking for (and even then, we missed things). It’s also most certainly a lengthy and expensive commute from Rome. All this said, we were glad we went. Here’s what to expect if you make the day trip:

From Naples, Pompeii is a short and simple metro/train ride away. It won’t, however, be a terribly pleasant one. We found that the local train system that connects the central train terminal in Naples to the outskirts (where you’ll find Pompeii) to be a bit grimy, even as far as metros go. Don’t expect a cushy journey, and do expect a lot of stops. However, it’s a straight line to the Pompeii Scavi stop (the second of two that are listed as Pompeii), and once deposited there, you’re directly in front of the ticket booth and entrance. In the Naples train station, head downstairs for their metro line, and buy tickets at the kiosk. At the time of our visit, metro tickets were €2,50 each (each way).

If you’re coming from Rome, as we were, you’ll first need to take the fast train from Rome’s Termini station, operated by TrenItalia. We took several journeys on this line, and both were very pleasant. The train is very fast, very comfortable, and yes, a bit expensive. You’ll want to book your tickets for this leg of the trip ahead of time. You can print these tickets at home (you’ll want it to show a bar code) or at the station, using one of the many TrenItalia kiosks. At the time of our visit, tickets for this leg of the flight were approximately €25 each.

Once at the Pompeii stop, you’ll see a line of food stalls, as well as a small cafe and vending machines. Pick up some water if you need some. Tickets for entry to the Pompeii ruins are just a few yards away, at the official ticketing booth. Don’t buy at the train station…this is a scam. There’s another entrance by Pompeii’s amphitheater, for those with tickets bought online. The ticket line is sometimes long, but it moves pretty fast. This is a good time to eat a quick snack.

There are also audio guides for 5 euros each. We picked these up, and while the audio program has some flaws, we still felt it to be money well-spent. First, the flaws: the locations where you can listen to information are numbered, but they’re pretty haphazard (don’t expect it to go numerically very often). Also, many descriptions instruct the user to ‘step inside’ to see certain artifacts or architecture, or to turn down this or that hallway. In reality, many of the dwellings in Pompeii are gated to the public. You can look in, but not step in (there are exceptions I’ll describe below). All this said, if you go with the flow and listen as you wish (and as you see numbers), you’ll learn a lot. We really liked the actual information presented. It was interesting to kids, too.

Once in the Pompeii ruins, visitors are left to their own devices to wander at will. This is both a blessing and a curse. It’s nice to have the freedom to explore on one’s own, in whatever direction desired, but it can also mean you’ll miss things. There are maps available, but they’re not terribly user-friendly. It’s best to enter and make your own path, listening as you go. Depending on which entrance you come through, you’ll either be near the basilica (meeting space) and forum by the main Porta Marina entrance, or by the amphitheater. Either way, here’s what not to miss:

Pompeii with kids:

In the amphitheater area, Piazza Anfiteatro,look through this entertainment space, then enter the wooden pyramid building that houses the molds of human remains, discovered by archaeologist Giuseppe Fiorelli in 1863. Keep in mind, these plaster ‘people’ are neither replicas or remains…Fiorelli made casts of the empty spaces they’d left behind, capturing their positions at time of death. It’s very sobering, and young kids may not be ready for it.

The Palestra Grande is nearby, as well as the domus of Marcus Lucrezius Fonto, both of which help tell the story of the daily lives of those who inhabited them and used them. The main street through Pompeii is probably the via dell’Abbondanza, which will link you with the forum side of the ruins. On this side, you’ll want to see the public bathhouses, the temples (what’s left of them) and basilica, and the simpler buildings that housed ‘cafeteria’ counters, sporting arenas, and more modest homes. In this area, we only had access to the bathhouses for interior entry.

It’s also very interesting to simply walk the streets. You can learn about the city’s water systems, traffic systems, and other public works by listening to the extra materials in the audio guide (you’ll be prompted to these after listening to numbered entries). Don’t skip these…they’re among the most interesting. You’ll see the indentions of chariot wheels in the stone streets, and learn about the ‘crosswalks’ of Pompeii. Certainly, the quality of life was generally high.

If you go:

Be sure to allow enough time. We had three hours, and it wasn’t enough. Grab a painfully early train from Rome if you’re making it a day trip, or go in summer when the ruins are open longer per day. While we were happy to do this in one day, we wished we had more time.
Pack a lunch if you can. The cafeteria onsite is overpriced and not very good (no huge surprise here), and the lines can get long, cutting into your time in the ruins. It’s permitted to picnic just about anywhere along the roads. There IS a size limit on day packs, but if you have a large bag with lunch, you can keep it at the bag check and retrieve it any time. While mildly inconvenient, I believe going back for it would take less time than we wasted in lunch lines.
Validate your metro tickets from Naples to Pompeii. You;ll see the green or yellow validation machines in the station.

Hours and pricing:

Tickets are €20 per adults at the time of our visit. Kids 18 and under are free. If you have tall teens like I do, have them bring an ID. We were asked at several locations in Italy to show ID for free admission. The hours are as follows:

1st April – 31st October: daily from 8.30 am to 7.30 pm (admission closes at 6 pm)
1st November – 31st March: daily from 8.30 am to 5 pm (admission closes at 3.30 pm)

Directions:

For the entrance to Porta Marina and Piazza Esedra:
Circumvesuviana Naples-Sorrento (Pompei Villa dei Misteri Stop)

For the entrance to Piazza Anfiteatro:
Circumvesuviana Naples-Poggiomarino (Pompei Santuario Stop)
FS (Italian railways) Naples – Salerno (Pompei Stop)

Have you been to Pompeii with kids? What was your favorite part?

Why you should tour Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome with kids

March 18, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

While visiting Rome with kids, the time will come when you’ll face a full-on mutiny if you suggest even one more museum. This is the moment to head to the Castel Sant’Angelo. This underrated and overlooked site in Rome is a must-do. We are so glad we tried it!

Unlike the Colosseum, Vatican, and Forum, kids are let loose at Castel Sant’Angelo. This mausoleum turned fortress dates back to AD 123, when it was used by Hadrian’s time, then later used for defense of the bridge to the Vatican and as a refuge for popes. You enter right along the Tiber, and almost immediately go across a steep bridge that once opened and closed. Inside, kids can run along the fortress walls, checking out battlements, a catapult, cubbies from which to shoot arrows…the works. Further inside, you can walk the interior hallways and imagine guards and knights, torches and prisoners in chains. Not much has changed, really. Even the flooring is original. There’s a huge hole in the floor where kids can glimpse the dungeon, and up higher, you can tour through papal rooms still decorated for the popes who hid out here over the years. This interior section is actually quite amazing.

At the very top of the Castel, the views of the city are stunning. Be sure to allow time to take photos and use the view to pick out landmarks you’ve visited during your time in the city. There’s even a small cafe where you can pause for hot chocolate and espresso along the battlement one floor below the top (they don’t let you linger here at the tables if you haven’t ordered, however). Near this cafe are the interior rooms housing armor and weaponry through the ages. Unfortunately the descriptions are in Italian only, but let’s face it…by this point in a trip to Rome, kids are done reading things.

We spent several hours here, and loved the freedom to run around and explore at will. Afterward, we walked across the pedestrian bridge into Centro Storico (the old city) where we weren’t far from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona.

Pricing and hours:

Tickets at the time of our visit were €10 for adults and half that for kids 18 and under. We found no line when we visited a few hours before closing. Check opening and closing time, as it varies by season. During our winter visit, the fortress was open until 7 pm, with last ticket sales at 6:30 pm. I recommend touring around 5 pm in winter to be there for the sunset.