Winter holiday season at Squaw Valley and Alpine Meadows

We’ve reviewed Squaw Valley in the past, and the info linked is still relevant, helping you plan your Squaw Valley ski trip! But we’re in the heart of the holiday season at Squaw Valley right now, and it’s amazing! For a taste of what this iconic ski resort is like during the festive holiday season, read on!

squaw-village

Holiday season at Squaw Valley:

For our family, spending the holidays at a ski resort cannot be beat. We absolutely love spending Christmas amid evergreens, snow, and ski slopes. Throughout December, The Village at Squaw comes alive during their annual Merry Days and Holly Nights, with holiday decor, a massive tree, and outdoor fire pits ready for marshmallow roasting. Events are ongoing (described more below). This festive ambiance is really all we need to get into the holiday spirit, but if you need more, you’ll find it!

In the days between Christmas and New Years, you can ski and ride with Jonny Moseley, go disco tubing (see more on this below!), try the mini snowmobiles, and enjoy holiday-themed concerts.

Learn about all your holiday options here!

squaw-valley

Last year, during our two ski days leading up to Christmas, Squaw Valley got dumped on, with almost two feet of snow in two days. It was powder heaven on the slopes, and when we’d had enough, our lodging in the Village at Squaw Valley was only a few steps from the slopes. We spent the late afternoons in the hot tub in our building, playing Monopoly, and sneaking away for a hot toddy at the Plaza Bar (grown-ups only!). While in the lodge for lunch, Santa came by our table with candy canes.

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We ate a holiday meal pre-Christmas at Plumpjack, located in the Squaw Valley Inn. Our four-course meal with the family was made even more special by the snow falling outside. And we never had to get in our car…a huge plus while on a ski vacation where weather becomes a factor to be reckoned with.

This year, we tried something new with Christmas Eve dinner at High Camp (much recommended, even though it had to be moved to the Olympic Lodge due to storm conditions on the mountain!), and saved our evenings for disco tubing. LED lights, lasers and live DJs made the snow tubing lanes festive (and exciting enough for teens!) from 5-8pm.

If you come to enjoy the holiday season at Squaw Valley, don’t miss:

  • The festive holiday atmosphere in the Village at Squaw Valley
  • The holiday meal offerings at Plumpjack, High Camp, or with Olympians at farm-to-table events.
  • Free sleigh rides: catch a ride between the Village at Squaw Valley and the Olympic Village Lodge
  • Free train rides through the ice sculpture garden: North Tahoe Catering sculptors create animals and shapes from ice in the Ice Garden at Olympic Village Lodge.
  • The chance to glimpse Santa on the slopes: during our visit, we caught sight of his bright red hat several times!
  • New Year’s Eve celebration: includes a torchlit parade and fireworks!

Photos courtesy of Squaw Alpine and Amy Whitley.

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holidays at Squaw Alpine

Best Ski Towns: Luxury Vail ski vacation

It’s impossible to have a ‘best ski towns’ series and not include Vail, Colorado. There’s a reason Vail has been absent from our list thus far…it’s already on everyone else’s list. That said, Vail deserves a place on ours as well, because with perhaps the exception of Deer Valley Utah, Vail and its neighbor and Vail Resorts partner, Beaver Creek, offer up the most luxurious ski vacation experience we’ve tried. If you’re looking to book a luxury Vail ski vacation, here’s how to do it.

Luxury Vail ski vacation planning:

Start by setting the tone for your vacation by staying at The Sonnenalp. This Leading Hotels of the World-classified hotel delivers that coveted and rare combination: it’s both luxurious and comfortable. It’s right in the heart of the Vail Village, and the Sonnenalp ski concierge service ensures you never have to carry your own gear anywhere (plus you get a private ski locker and changing area directly across from Gondola One). I love the amenities at a hotel, but still want the space of a rental during a ski vacation, and at the Sonnenalp, almost all the rooms are suites. Vail Resorts-owned Arrabelle is also a home run, located in the Lionshead Village (a very short shuttle ride from Vail Village).

vail

At Vail, the skiing and snowboarding can be fantastic, thanks to its sheer size and diversity of terrain, but a vacation here is also about the overall experience. To that end, when planning a luxury Vail ski vacation, take as much time to plan your dining reservations as you do your ski days. (Yes, it almost hurts me to write this, as an avid ‘go all day long’ skier, but when in  Rome…)

With kids, definitely make at least one reservation at Swiss Chalet, located in The Sonnenalp. They’ll love the authentic Alpine cuisine, and fondue is fast to the table and fun to eat, keeping kids entertained. Other sure bets in Vail with kids: Bully Ranch, with casual burgers and to-die-for tater tots, and Blue Moose Pizza (a crowd-pleaser for sure).

swiss chalet

If you and your partner or spouse can get away for a long lunch on the mountain, head to The 10th, Vail’s premiere on-mountain option (in my opinion). There’s just something so luxurious about a sit-down lunch during the heart of the day. Plus, the views are amazing, so even if you’re not skiing, it’s worth booking (you can take Gondola One up without ski gear).

Additional must-do’s for the grown ups: La Tour on East Meadow Drive for French cuisine in the heart of the village and Tavern on the Square in Lionshead Village. If you’re in the mood to stay out late, head to the Red Lion in Vail Village for the best live music (and a very local scene), then finish your evening out with a nightcap at King’s Club in Sonnenalp.

In addition to skiing, hotels and ski rental shops alike will rent or lend you snowshoes, which families can take on their own around the villages or up the nearby summit passes (if you have a car), or guided snowshoe trips are offered at Sonnenalp and other luxury properties.

beaver creek

Plan an evening in which you simply window shop (or productively shop…your choice) in Vail Village, Beaver Creek Village, or Lionshead Village, where you’ll find the top stores in outdoor gear, lifestyle wear and more, and then go ice skating on one of the many outdoor rinks (we counted three in Vail and one in Beaver Creek, but there are probably more). If interested, look to time your visit around world-class ski and board competitions: Vail and Beaver Creek host many, including the Burton cup and the Birds of Prey stop on the World Cup downhill tour. Best of all, viewing these competitions is often free.

beaver creek

Kids’ ski lessons are among the best quality in the world at both Vail and Beaver Creek (BC especially often wins awards and recognition for theirs), and as an added incentive (if you need it), near Vail’s ski school learning areas in Lionshead, a full ropes adventure course is on offer…tempt your kids to try this after their lessons are over for the day!

What do you love to do as part of a luxury Vail ski vacation?

 

Deer Valley on a budget: How to plan a skiing trip

During my visit to Deer Valley last ski season, I repeatedly heard two things: it’s so expensive, and the dining scene is amazing. After spending two nights and three days at Deer Valley, Utah, I can tell you one of these things is true.

Deer Valley has an amazing culinary scene that you will want to indulge in. However, this resort is not the most expensive in Utah. In fact, lift ticket rates at Deer Valley are right in the average range for the area. Deer Valley fans know this is only one of the many misconceptions out there about this resort. In addition to hearing that it’s unaffordable, I’ve heard it ‘only has easy groomers’, is posh to the point of snobbishness, and that it’s a playground for the rich and famous. While it certainly boosts some A-list names among its home owners, the rest simply is simply false.

lodge-at-deer-valley

Deer Valley on a budget: Yes, it CAN be affordable!

First off, we simply have to accept the fact that most skiing in major resort in the US is expensive. In fact, it’s downright out-of-hand in many parts of Colorado, Utah, and California. The Park City area is no exception; however, you’ll do more damage to your wallet at Park City Mountain Resort now that Park City and Canyons have merged ($122/day for adults). When I skied recently in Colorado, lift ticket prices were upwards of $140. A Deer Valley one day adult lift ticket is $120, which makes it just below industry standard for resorts of its size. Not cheap, but certainly not the ‘splurge’ people think it is.

Buy lift tickets in advance:

Of course, you won’t want to pay day-of lift ticket prices. Make your Deer Valley trip more affordable by buying lift tickets online before your trip. Don’t overlook the season pass section: depending on how many days you plan to ski, buying a season pass can be a better deal (look for sales in October and November…in other words, right now!).

deer-valley

Stay in a condo:

Next, make your trip affordable by staying in a condo or house, splitting the cost with another family or two. Many people consider Deer Valley unaffordable because they’re thinking of all the amazing four and five star resorts situated around it. While its true that you can spend thousands a night at the St. Regis, Stein Ericsen, Montage, and more, less ritzy lodging is available. With the money you save, you can splurge on dining out (more on that below).

During our stay, we were in a condo in the Snow Park base area. We were minutes from downtown Park City and minutes from the lifts. Included in our condo stay was a complimentary shuttle in either direction, plus internet access, a full kitchen, multiple bathrooms and bedrooms (so crucial when sharing with other families), a washer and dryer, and lots of space to spread out. We sacrificed ski-in, ski-out access for price.

Enjoy some meals out:

When skiing Deer Valley, you cannot miss noticing the amazing culinary scene. Everything from breakfast at the base to on-mountain dining and evening apres ski is amazing, and if you deny yourself all of it, you’ll miss a key part of the Deer Valley experience. With your condo, you can decide which meals to eat in-home, and select a few nights to treat yourself. Here’s where to go:

fireside-dining

  • Fireside Dining: Holy. Moly. Fireside Dining is an experience NOT to miss. It’s offered Wednesday through Saturday, and features four courses served from stone fireplaces, European Alps-style. Diners visit each ‘fireplace station’ at will, in buffet style. Start with the raclette (melted cheese with toppings), then move on to soups, stews, grilled vegetables, leg of lamb, and dessert fondue. It will feel overwhelming, but your waiter will walk you through it. We were told to remember to eat in order of ‘cheese, stew, lamb, fondue’. In truth, you can do it any way you’d like! Be sure to stop mid-way through your meal for a sleigh ride, offered right out front. The servers will hold your table for you, and the break will be welcome. Rides are only $20 per family. Even your meal is affordable, considering the uniqueness and quality: adults pay around $60, kids $30. Alcohol is not included in the price, but you can even bring your own without a corkage fee.
  • Seafood Buffet: I’m told many diners choose between Fireside Dining and Seafood Buffet when they visit Deer Valley. I’d be hard pressed to choose which! As the simple restaurant name suggests, Seafood Buffet is just that. Thanks to the hub airport at SLC, Deer Valley gets the same fresh seafood as LA or New York, at the same time, if not earlier. It’s offered Thursday through Sunday, and includes a Poke bar, raw bar, rotating selection of grilled and baked fish, prime rib, shellfish, and wonderful desserts. Adults are $68, kids are $34. It’s worth it.

deer-valley-chef

  • Royal Street Cafe: This restaurant on the snow at the mid-mountain Silver Lake area offers sit-down, serviced dining mid-day. Don’t think of it as a splurge: the prices are only a fraction higher than they’d be at the buffet nearby, and you can actually sit down and put your feet (or boots) up. I had an amazing burger, and others ordered fish tacos, an ahi tuna tower, and Asian salad.
  • Snow Park Restaurant: Snow Park is at the Snow Park base area (and turns into Seafood Buffet at night!). It serves the usual breakfast in the morning, but makes this list due to its wonderful Natural Breakfast Buffet. This buffet area in the center of the room features granola, yogurt, berries, fruit, oatmeal, nuts, and the like. I made my own custom yogurt parfait.

And for those meals you simply must eat in? Don’t miss out on some of Deer Valley’s signature meals, even in your condo. Deer Valley’s famous Southwestern turkey chili can be bought as a mix in almost all Deer Valley gift stores; add your own meat and veggies, and you’ll have a huge vat of this chili for under $8. Additional mixes are available as well! You’ll have a taste of Deer Valley while feeding the whole crew for pennies!

What to expect on the slopes:

deer-valley

Yes, Deer Valley has a lot of green and blue runs. They’re long, impeccably groomed, and oh-so pleasant. While skiing down them, it’s fun to look at the huge ski vacation homes lining them (Deer Valley is surprisingly ‘urban’ in this way). However, expert terrain definitely exists, if you want it. During my visit, I was lucky enough to ski with former 3x Olympian Heidi Voelker, who is now an ambassador at Deer Valley. She showed me amazing bowls and chutes I didn’t know existed, especially off the Empire chair. Deer Valley also boosts a lot of glades that hide stashes of powder after the bowls are skied out.

deer-valley

No matter what type of terrain you like, you’ll notice that at Deer Valley, the runs and chairs are very well spaced and ‘crowd control’ is very well handled. I never found I needed to traverse or ‘hike’, and I never waited in a long line. Part of this is because Deer Valley actually limits ticket sales per day.  They base their capacity level on how many chairs they have available on-mountain for lunch. It’s a great system that results in a very peaceful atmosphere, both on the slopes and at lunch.

Tip: Definitely book lift tickets well ahead if you plan to come during holiday periods, so you don’t arrive to find the capacity has been met. In fact, I was told to book lift tickets and ski school at the time I book lodging.

If you like to shop:

You will have ample opportunity! However, if you want to stick to a budget, head into Park City and do your outdoor gear shopping at Cole Sports. This huge retailer of skis, outerwear, boots, shoes, and more has frequent sales, especially in the pre-season and late season. In Deer Valley, many upscale shops exist; if you need to avoid temptation, however, it’s easy, as there’s no central base area shopping here, where everyone converges.

Will your Deer Valley ski vacation be ‘cheap’? Goodness no! But it’s certainly possible to ski here for no more, and perhaps for less, than at other major ski resorts.

deer-valley

Disclosure: I visited Deer Valley as a guest of Ski Utah.

 

Ways to elevate your ski day: backcountry ski excursions, clinics and more

If you generally ski lift-served terrain (hopefully with your family!) but find yourself routinely wanting to elevate your ski day with a little more adventure, there are some very obtainable and accessible ways to do so! Whether you’ve already skied everything you can in the front-country (on-piste terrain) at your favorite ski resort or simply want to learn more about ways to maximize your ski experience,  backcountry ski excursions, clinics and resort programs can get you into the side-country for new challenges.

Sidecountry and Backcountry ski excursions:

If you find yourself looking with longing at Warren Miller (RIP) films or drooling over brochures featuring fresh tracks cutting through powery landscapes, look into backcountry ski excursions. It’s important to start with guided programs, so you can learn what you need to know about avalanche and snow safety (if you get hooked, you’ll need to invest in your own gear and take an avalanche safety course at home).

Start with sidecountry trips, which simply means skiing the off-piste but still ski-patrolled areas of a resort. A few great ways to do this: try a Homewood Snowcat Adventure with the folks at this Tahoe ski resort with a hometown feel, or pay a few bucks to access Keystone Mountain’s cat-accessed terrain.

If you’re visiting a new-to-you resort, see if they have a Hidden Tracks program, like Solitude Mountain Resort’s: this private, guided program grants you access to the best side country and gated terrain the resort has to offer, and you get a lesson in skiing off-piste while you’re at it. Read more about my Hidden Tracks experience.

If you feel ready for an all-day backcountry adventure, check out Ski Utah’s Interconnect. The backcountry ski excursions the Interconnect offers are quite truly amazing. While you need to be an advanced skier to participate, you don’t have to be experienced in the backcountry. The trained guides will carry all the avi gear you need and will provide the expertise.

Depending on the excursion you choose, you ski up to six Utah ski resorts in one day, connecting them via backcountry. Along the way, you’ll ski side and backcountry, boot pack a few times, and side slip (side step on your skis) at a few key points, too. While challenging physically, the Interconnect offers some of the back fresh powder in the Wasatach, takes you to points you might have only seen on postcards, and will get you hooked on skiing off the beaten path. A day with the Interconnect folks includes lunch and access to all the resorts you’ll be passing through.

Know before you book: As noted, you’ll need to be an advanced skier. Because several of the resorts on the tour do not permit snowboards, it’s a skier-only excursion. While it’s important to be able to ski a variety of terrain, it’s equally important to be fit enough to hike through snow (carrying your skis) and side slip. It also helps to not fear moderate heights. You’ll need to bring a small backpack (a hydration pack size is perfect) to stow extra gloves, a face mask, some snacks, and water.

In California, try at backcountry experience with Alpenglow Expeditions. Alpenglow operates out of Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows and tours in the backcountry past Granite Chief lift to access out-of-boundary terrain via boot packing and skinning. Alpenglow will outfit you in AT (Alpine Touring) skis, boots, skins and backpack with avi gear if you need it. Tours are all day, and can include up to 2-3 laps of National Geographic Bowl.

Read more about my experiences with both Ski Utah Interconnect and Alpenglow Expeditions here.

Ongoing ski clinics ski camps:

If you’re lucky enough to live near a ski resort, consider signing yourself up for an ongoing adult ski clinic. You probably already have the kids in ski lessons, too! Ski clinics are often gender-specific (nice for women who want to learn without pressure from their husbands and vice versa) and the regular nature of them means you can improve over the season. Look for a clinic that utilizes the same instructor for the entire session for consistency of instruction, and it helps to have a later start time (like 9:30 or 10 am) so you have time to drop off kids at their own lessons (or at school) beforehand. Look for clinic options under ‘specialty lessons’ on most resort websites. Solitude’s Women on Wednesdays are an excellent example.

Ski camps are a great way to feel like a kid again while enjoying some adult time and improving your ski ability by leaps and bounds. Alta Lodge’s women’s camps are a great example: bunk with a ski buddy, enjoy meals at the lodge and nice long ski days filled with instruction, then relax each evening in the hot tub and at the bar with new friends. Yes, please!

If you can’t quite carve out a whole week, Northstar California plays host to Her Mountain retreats, a two-day event held several times per ski season (then again several times per summer for mountain bike enthusiasts). During Her Mountain, women receive two days of specialized lessons by a female instructor, guided yoga, apres-ski events, and even the Platinum tōst experience on the mountain. This experience is an elevated version of the 2 pm tōst (where every Northstar guest can enjoy complimentary champagne or sparkling cider). Platinum Tōst is at 1 pm and includes a dedicated seating area with fire pit, a s’mores kit, a bottle of Veuve Clicquot, and a picnic of charcuterie that is hearty enough to be a full lunch. Her Mountain doesn’t include lodging, so you can pick your level of luxury to economic accommodations.

First Tracks programs:

Ditch the family sleeping soundly at the ski condo and head out for first tracks! These programs are offered at many resorts and allow you to hop on the first chair at 8:15 am instead of 9 am. Often, First Tracks is free to guests staying at certain resort properties or come with a low cost. The key is to sign up early, because there are only a few spots each day offered. You’ll get to track up that perfect corduroy first, and enjoy a nice breakfast afterward.

How do you like to elevate your ski day experience?

 

 

On being a skiing family: From the first green run to a family ski vacation

Recently, I read a Facebook update from a friend and fellow travel writer that declared something along the lines of, “Third time’s a charm! On our third ski vacation, we finally fell in love with skiing.”

This happy statement made me reflect on my own family’s ski ‘journey’, which started perhaps a bit differently than most. Unlike many parents, we considered ourselves a ‘skiing family’ even before our kids could ski. My husband and I had both grown up with the sport in the Tahoe area, myself racing slalom at the state level through high school. There was nothing I loved more than skiing, and we couldn’t wait to share this winter pastime with our boys.

ski-family

 

We started each son on skis at age three, which turned out to be a worthwhile yet exhausting endeavor. By the time our third son was born, we were a full-fledged preschool-and-toddler ski family, with tiny Rossis, boots, snowsuits, goggles, mittens, and other paraphanilia littering the back of our car. We hauled all our gear up to our local ski lodge at Mt. Ashland, Oregon, in a huge duffel bag, with stumbling children (usually with runny noses and lost gloves) trailing in our wake. We set up a port-a-crib in the lodge for our baby, and my husband and I took turns taking laps.

Those early years were fun, but rough. My mom, the boys’ grandma, was actually in the trenches the most, as the most patient ski instructor of our group. Without her, I’m not sure my kids would have mastered the ‘pizza wedge’. As they grew, we continued to teach them on our own during the preschool years, and they followed us like ducklings around our local mountain. We signed the boys up for weekly lessons with our local ski racing club when they hit the required age, and the consistent, dedicated instruction took them from competent intermediate skiers to experts.

skiing with kids

Perhaps because we’ve been on the mountain almost every weekend of every winter of our boys’ young lives, we never had that ‘aha moment’. We never experienced that single day in which we said, ‘This is it! We get it now.’ Instead, it just seemed to happen without our noticing, until one season, we were all skiing blacks together and I realized I wasn’t wiping anyone’s nose or helping anyone take off their snowsuit to go potty or sweating in my jacket as I  knocked the snow off someone’s little boot and guided it into their binding. After years in the trenches, we could all, as a family, ski any run of any resort…together.

squaw valley for expert skiers

Sometimes, I’m asked whether it was ‘worth it’ to teach my kids to ski so young, when the process was still more like hefting sacks of potatoes than a rewarding day in the outdoors. My answer: absolutely. By declaring ourselves ‘a skiing family’ before we actually were one, I fulfilled the prophecy. And there’s always more to learn. Now, we take family lessons at major resorts from Tahoe to Colorado to learn more skills, my 5th grader is trying to perfect his 360, and my teen skiers are considering backcountry skiing and avalanche courses. I imagine when they have kids, they’ll start as ‘skiing families’ too.

Is your family still working up to that first blue run? Read this account of a family finding that ‘aha moment’ during a private lesson at Vail.

What to expect from a ski vacation during COVID

Skiing and snowboarding families should expect some differences at ski resorts this year. Ready to try a ski vacation during COVID? Read on!

Ski vacation during COVID: what to expect!

The good news: ski vacations are inherently safe, since they’re outdoors with plenty of fresh air and exercise. Families can pod together easily at ski resorts, and many resorts are expects a La Nina year! Here’s what to expect from a ski vacation during COVID:

Masks in lift lines and in lodges:

This is easy…you and your family are probably already wearing Buffs or other face coverings. If not, outfit your family with any type of balaclava, buff, bandana, or ski mask. If it’s a warm day, simply wear your face covering around your neck when you’re on the slopes. And be sure to check out ski and snowboard in Idaho for fantastic vacation ideas. 

Chair lift rides with your crew only:

Again, no big deal, since most chairs seat 4-6 people, and you probably ride up the slopes with your family anyway. Could this mean longer than usual lift lines, as lifties are required to load some chairs with fewer people on them? Yes, so be prepared to rest your legs a bit longer than you might like.

Some lodges closed for the season:

This one can be seen as a bummer, or as an opportunity: some ski resorts will be limiting lodge services. For instance, Mt. Ashland Ski Area‘s historic lodge will be closed for warming, lift ticket purchases, and food services, and will only be open for families to pick up rentals or meet for lessons.

This means that skiing and snowboarding may remind parents of the slopes of their childhoods, when a ski day did not include a $15 burger or ramen bar at lunch. Families will need to tailgate, bring packed sandwiches to eat on the chair, or plan more half-day experiences.

Walk-up ticket sales will be limited:

Most resorts, such as Squaw Valley, will limit walk-up tickets, in order to better control how many guests are on the slopes any given day. Day tickets will still be available, but they will need to be purchased in advance on the website. If day-of tickets are still available online, they may still be purchased.

fOther resorts, such as most Vail Resorts, plan to use a reservation system directly limiting the number of guests per day. This reservation system may be lifted later in the season. At Northstar California, for example, day passes won’t be sold at all until after a soft start for season passholders from opening day until mid-December.

This is the year to splurge on that annual pass:

Because of reservation systems and limits on walk-up sales, the best way to ensure your ski vacation during COVID–and the best way to plan in advance–is to purchase annual passes at your favorite resort. Annual passholders will be granted the most access and receive the most perks this ski season.

Are you ready for the 2020-21 ski season? Prep now by waxing and tuning your own skis with our DIY guide!

Vail luxury ski hotel: Sonnenalp hotel review

I have been lucky enough to stay in many luxury ski hotel properties, from Whistler to Tahoe to points east. My stay at The Sonnenalp, a Leading Hotels of the World property in Vail, Colorado, met the expectations that properties like the Fairmont or the Ritz Carlton had set for me, but also exceeded those expectations in subtle ways.

Sonnenalp

What do I mean by this? The Sonnenalp Hotel, which is a true family-owned property, in the same family for four generations, has a very understated and timeless style of luxury and service. From the moment you drive into the porte-cochère and your ski gear is whisked effortlessly away by the ski concierge team to the simple yet thoughtful texts sent by the front desk staff, inquiring how your stay is going and whether there is anything they can do for you, at The Sonnenalp, it’s all about quietly and efficiently serving, while providing a timeless and lovely place to call home in the heart of Vail.

sonnenalp

While beautiful, the Sonnenalp exhibits a cozy Bavarian elegance, not a flashy or sleek luxury vibe. Inside, the long halls with meandering staircases with wooden handrails call to mind a European ski chalet; in fact, in some parts of the hotel, I truly would mistake my location for the Alps. All the guest spaces of the hotel, from the small front lobby to the expansive King’s Club lounge (arguably the heart of the hotel) exhibit an understated but sophisticated elegance. You’d never make the mistake that you were in a budget hotel, by any means, but you are also spared any sort of stuffy or snooty ambiance.

Sonnenalp rooms:

suite

Ever stayed at a five-star, very expensive property and looked around your hotel room and noted you were actually lacking a lot of useful items, like a fridge, table, or microwave? The Sonnenalp has 112 suites to its 15 rooms, with a focus on comfort. I stayed in one of their two-level mountain suites, which was laid out with a living room and wet bar space downstairs (with fireplace) and two bedrooms upstairs, with over 1300 square feet total space. Be sure to ask for a few room fans upon check-in, as we found the upstairs to get stuffy. I appreciated having a Nespresso machine, a minibar, a second fridge for storing our own things, a microwave, and two and a half bathrooms.

great room

We enjoyed turndown service, lovely robes for use in the room and at the spa area, and eco-friendly bath amenities. The only thing I found missing: access to a washer and dryer, or even just a dryer, in the suites. When skiing with a family, a dryer is huge. 

Sonnenalp European spa:

At The Sonnenalp, the European spa concept means that in addition to their luxurious spa, most of the spa’s 10,000 square feet is accessible for all guests, including children. What this looks like: when you enter the spa area, you are not stopped at a sign-in desk (though they have one). Instead, you’re invited into the large space that houses a 360 degree fireplace with sunken seating, a full bar (with oxygen bar), and the indoor pool and hot tub. Off of this room are the men’s and women’s locker rooms, sauna, steam rooms, and fitness center…open to everyone (though children under 16 are not allowed in the back locker rooms or fitness center of the spa). Out glass doors by the pool, the outdoor section of the pool and two additional outdoor hot tubs await.

spa

While kids need to be respectfully quiet in this greater spa area, they are welcome, and what results is a very cozy, warm space for families to gather apres-ski or anytime. For adults, complementary yoga classes are held here almost daily, as well as personal training services. While the fitness center is not large, it has the cardio and weight training equipment needed.

pools

While I love that most of the spa can be appreciated by everyone, I do recommend booking at least one spa treatment during your stay. My aromatherapy massage was one of the best I’ve ever had, made even more relaxing in the knowledge that the rest of my group could be having fun in the pools and hot tubs. A poolside/spa-side menu is available (though outdoor pool deck service is seasonal).

Sonnenalp dining:

swiss chalet

The Sonnenalp has multiple restaurants onsite, and of course, you’re in the heart of the Vail village, so many additional restaurants are within walking distance. As noted above, the cozy King’s Club, with bar, a ‘living room’ type space, and even a library, is the place to start your evening with a drink during their happy hour. It’s also the place to return later in the evening for live music. A must do is Swiss Chalet, Sonnenalp’s nod to Alpine cuisine, with fondue and raclette, and for the most casual dining option, head to Bully Ranch, the hotel’s Western-themed restaurant (where you’ll instantly feel like you’re in Wyoming, not Germany).

buffet

While Sonnenalp may be best known for Swiss Chalet’s fondue dinner, their breakfast buffet, held daily at Ludwig’s, is in danger of outshining it all. There’s more than any one person could possibly eat at this gourmet buffet of hot dishes, granolas, fresh fruits, berries, cheese spreads, bagels and lox, smoked salmon, artisan breads, and more. The buffet is $35 per person (or $23 for the continental version), but don’t gasp just yet: with most reservations, it can be included in the cost of the stay as an add-on (well worth it). If you don’t add the buffet on and don’t want to pay that price, there is also an a la carte menu, as well as room service. By no means is Sonnenalp dining inexpensive, but it is part of the overall experience of the hotel.

Sonnenalp activities:

The hotel has a kids’ club, which is complementary with activities planned for kids daily, with drop-in options. At the time of my visit, the club was open from 4 pm to 6 pm, which was great: parents can enjoy happy hour while the kids are busy. This service is for kids three and up who are potty trained, but even if you have a younger one, stop by for a complementary box of sanitized toys to take back to your room. For older kids, there’s a game room adjacent. Get always updated kids’ club information.

kids club

The planned activities for adults, beyond the spa and fitness offerings, such as the snowshoeing treks aforementioned, were offered six days a week during my visit. Of course, a main activity for parents is simply relaxing. I recommend sitting in the library with one of their famous mudslides.

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If visiting in winter, most families plan to ski. Here’s how the ski concierge services work at Sonnenalp:

Because the hotel is about three blocks from Gondola One (where you can upload for Vail skiing), Sonnenalp guests have access to nearby Gorsuch Ski Cafe. The ski concierge team will transport your gear there upon your arrival to the hotel. Guests walk the few blocks in comfortable winter boots, instead of ski boots, and grab their gear from the concierge there. The space has ample room for getting on gear and storing skis and boards. You can also apply sunscreen here and there’s seating for 40-50.

For summer season guests, Sonnenalp has their own private golf course, with a much large fitness center and pool complex, as well as on-site dining, Harvest. The fitness center and Harvest are actually open year-round, and shuttles can be arranged from the hotel. There is a daily fee for golf, but I was assured hotel guests have use of the fitness area complementarily.

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Sonnenalp.

Disclosure: I stayed at Sonnenalp as a guest of the hotel, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

Planning a Family Ski Vacation: Where to Go for Snow

In the past few years, the ski scene has changed with changing weather patterns. For the many families who only take one major ski vacation per season, it’s more important than ever to know where to go for the best conditions. And yes, NOW is the time to book!

Planning a family ski vacation: Where to go for snow

While no resort or ski area can guarantee good snow pack when families book in advance, it’s possible to increase the odds of enjoying peak conditions (no pun intended) by booking one of the following US and Canadian ski resorts with the most consistent annual snowfall. When you want a sure thing for your family ski vacation during an unpredictable winter, go here:

1. Alta Ski Area, Utah

What places Alta at the top of the list? With a base elevation of 8,530, Alta has a leg up on many resorts. The dry, light snow of the Wasatch Mountain Range of Utah isn’t quick to melt, and Alta’s location west of Park City seems to be a magnet for regular snowfall. Still unsure? Trust fellow skiers and snowboarders: Alta was voted best ski resort for consistent annual snowfall in the recent Best Family Ski Resorts poll conducted by family travel expert Trekaroo.

2. Whistler Blackcomb, British Columbia 

Don’t be fooled by the rain that often falls at Whistler’s base area, which is hit by precipitation from the nearby Pacific. Higher up, the powder will be accumulating. Recognized as one of the most reliable North American resorts for snow pack, Whistler Blackcomb also has one of the most comprehensive village scenes, aiding in a great vacation, even if, by chance, the snow isn’t want you were hoping for.

3.  Jackson Hole, Wyoming

The cowboy town of Jackson Hole has as much going for it in winter as in summer. Known for its powder bowls and backcountry ski terrain, Jackson Hole consistently receives over 9 meters of snow due to its location in the Teton Mountains of the Rockies. Book this ski resort in December, January, or February for the best conditions; the season starts in November and ends earlier than its snowpack requires, due to its placement on an elk migration site.

4. Big Sky Resort, Montana 

With an average of 400 inches, it’s no wonder Big Sky, located in southwestern Montana, needs snowmaking capabilities on only 10% of the mountain. Plus, Big Sky now has more snow to play in, thanks to the acquisition of adjacent Moonlight Basin. It’s known for its deep stashes, but also has perfect groomers for younger kids and beginners. After a day of ripping it up on the mountain, be sure to stay at the Summit at Big Sky, where a 100-person hot tub awaits.

5. Northstar California

Located in the heart of North Tahoe, Northstar doesn’t always get the biggest natural snowpack among North American resorts. However, it’s makes the list for an important reason: Northstar has the best snowmaking capabilities in Lake Tahoe. What this means for skiing and snowboarding families: a sure thing, even when other resorts in the area are closed. Northstar is a great pick for early ski season trips, when it’s unclear what Mother Nature will bring.

Now, book early and without fear of a lack of snow upon your arrival!

Hometown skiing at Homewood Mountain Resort

When families think of skiing at Tahoe, they usually think of big, expensive resorts with fancy hotels and all the latest in snow science and technology (apps that track your laps, anyone?). Tahoe skiing IS all this and more, but there are still a few Tahoe ski resorts that remain the same as when I grew up here in the ’80s…and that’s a good thing.

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Homewood Mountain Resort  is the very first Tahoe ski resort I ever skied as a child, and I remember the ‘wow factor’ well: that first chair up Homewood’s face, you feel like you’re flying. Behind you, the lake is a huge blue expanse that seems to stretch forever, and before you is a black diamond run that goes all the way (practically) to the water.

I’m happy to report that skiing at Homewood again last spring, I felt the exact same way, years later. What’s more, the comfortable and rustic lodge is still the same, sitting right on the edge of Highway 89 on the west side of the lake shore, and the lifts are still (for the most part) slow doubles and triples that allow for ample family time on the way up.

With four major lifts (plus a beginner poma and magic carpet), Homewood is big enough for families to explore but still manageable for those with tweens and teens who want to ski on their own, without mom and dad. We loved the Old Homewood Express area best, which leads you to the side of Ellis Peak with plenty of long groomers and a terrain park for those who want it.

homewood-view

Note: at the top of Old Homewood Express, you might spy the Homewood cat skiing ‘ride’…new as of the 2015-16 season, Homewood now offers cat skiing adventures for skiers and riders from intermediate level and up. Learn more!

We also did quite a few laps on Ellis chair, so we could tackle the expert terrain on the sides of this little canyon, plus traverse to a wonderful spot called ‘Hobbit Land’ and even further to a wide bowl that drops skiers down to the top of the Quail Chair. We found that in late spring, there was a bit of hiking and skating to get ourselves back out of the bowl, so be ready for that in big powder or wet powder, like we had, but otherwise, there’s less hiking and traversing here than at most resorts, when accessing off-piste terrain.

At Homewood, it still feels like a local mountain. There are not big hotels at the base (though there are certainly accommodations), and this part of the west side of the lake is fairly unpopulated. We stayed nearby a year ago at a HomeAway rental up on the hillside just a mile from Homewood, and really loved the relative isolation. But most skiers here seem to be local or long-term visitors, which suits us just fine. The vibe is very casual and friendly, and you get the impression that at Homewood, it’s still all about the skiing. Then there’s the views: at Homewood, there is not a spot on the mountain where you DON’T have an amazing view of Lake Tahoe. It’s truly breathtaking.

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There’s plenty for beginners as well, but it’s worth noting that the learning area is at the very base of the mountain. This is normal of course, but a shame in this case, because those skiers and riders miss out on the amazing views.

Dining options:

For dining, there’s a nice overlook bar and grill just above the front face, with, of course, amazing views, and there are several food options at the base. Mostly though, you’ll see plenty of sack lunches here, which, again, reminds me of childhood and reminds my kids of our days on our local mountain at home. In fact, my 11-year-old said, “HOMEwood is like ‘at home’. It’s like they named it that on purpose.” Well said!

Lift tickets:

Day passes are often discounted for one reason or another. Definitely buy online before your visit to save. Prices during our visit were around $45 for adults on weekdays, and far less for kids. It’s a very affordable mountain. If you have a season pass to another mountain, check to see if there is a partnership or discount. Ditto for kids in ski racing programs.

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Directions:

From Tahoe City, drive south on Highway 89 to Homewood. From the south shore, you’ll take Hwy 89 north. Pretty simple!

We experienced Homewood as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own.

Alta for everyone: Why this Utah resort should be on your radar

With fourteen ski resorts within 45 minutes of Salt Lake City, it can be hard to decide which to call your own for your next destination ski trip. I love Park City, but don’t forget about the resorts tucked into the canyons just behind Provo, too!

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Alta Ski Resort sits in Little Cottonwood Canyon right next to Snowbird. Due to the terrain, skiers immediately feel completely tucked away and isolated from the bustle of Park City and SLC. In fact, you won’t find a ski village here, complete with manufactured pedestrian streets, ice rinks, and Patagonia shops. There’s nothing wrong with any of those things, but that’s just not what Alta is all about. Instead, Alta boosts five boutique lodges (the largest has only 90 rooms) nestled into the canyon, where guests sleep, eat, enjoy apres ski, and yes, dream about Alta’s epic powder.

What Alta’s all about:

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The first thing I noticed about Alta is, the people are different here. Firstly, they’re all skiers. Snowboarding is not permitted. For the most part, they’re serious about their winter recreation, and, in the case of Alta Lodge’s stellar return rate, over 70% of them have been here before.

Everywhere I went on the mountain, skiers were ardent Alta fans. The terrain is largely black diamond (expert), the chairs are mostly slow-moving doubles and triples, and the slopes are fairly unforgiving. Unlike at some resorts that plan out numerous cat tracks and groomers, Alta expects a lot of its skiers: there are many places its necessary to traverse, many opportunities to hike for higher terrain, and even a rope tow needed to get from one base to the next. In fact, long-time skiers affectionately joke Alta stands for Another Long Traverse Ahead.

Alta is an experience more than it is a mountain. It’s about the people, the traditions, the light, deep snow.

Average snowfall in Little Cottonwood Canyon is a whooping 551 inches per season, and Alta uses it to the max, with  2,200 lift-served acres (more if you skin it) and over 115 runs. Words to come to mind while I ski Alta include ‘authentic’, ‘old-school’, and ‘no joke’.

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While Alta is known as an ‘expert hill’, there’s terrain for everyone. On its Sunnyside base, the Alta ski school provides a welcoming, genuine experience, and there are plenty of green runs to get you going. What I noticed Alta lacked was the in-between: if you like long, blue groomer or rolling corduroy, it seemed to be in short supply. If you’re an expert, the Supreme and Collins lifts will take you to big bowls, powdery slopes, and tree stashes. We skied on a powder day, and there was so much terrain (with so few crowds), we easily found powder well after lunch.

Alta Lodge:

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As mentioned above, Alta Ski Resort has five lodging options, as well as a collection of mountain homes for rent privately. I stayed at Alta Lodge, situated just above the base area overlooking Goldminer’s Daughter and the expanse of the canyon. From the outside, Alta Lodge is decidedly rustic; in fact, it reminded me of the lodges we stayed in at Tahoe back in the ’70s and ’80s. A poma lift takes you to the door, which opens onto a cozy, warmly-appointed lobby and living space. Here, skiers can warm themselves by the fire in comfy chairs, enjoy coffee, tea, and cookies in the afternoon, and take in stunning mountain views in the small sitting room.

Downstairs, the ski locker room has been recently redone, and even features a ping pong table to use before or after your ski day. The lodge is ski in, ski out, and a four-course dinner and full breakfast is included in your nightly room rate.

Down the winding hallways of the lodge, two hot pools and saunas await skiers needing to soak, and upstairs, the Sitzmark Club offers incredible ambiance for apres ski drinks. It’s true that when not skiing, your Alta lodging choice will be where you spend all your time while in Little Cottonwood Canyon, but trust me, you won’t mind.

In fact, I loved the simplicity of knowing I’d park my car once, and spend all my time in the same cozy place.

During my stay at Alta Lodge, I noticed it was not unusual to see the CEO and the owners frequently. This lodge has been family-run since 1959, and is currently celebrating their 75 anniversary (of opening)! Guests come back year after year; in fact, return guests get first dibs at rebooking for the following year. I loved the all-inclusive feel to the lodge, as well as the genuine community atmosphere. Skiers mingled in the bar and at dinner, sharing stories of the slopes.

Included in the room rate:

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In addition to a full dinner and full breakfast daily, guests have complimentary ski lockers, the hot tubs, and a full childcare program. Kids are taken to ski school and brought back, given a kids’ dinner separately (while adults are still enjoying the bar or pools), and entertained in a staffed childcare area after dinner. They also transport kids to and from ski school lessons. (Note: full-time childcare is not available). I met the childcare staff and was impressed by the quality of this free program.

Guests can invite additional friends to dinner (using credit for the next night…eat out or trade with friends) or substitute a lunch for dinner. A full lunch is available at the lodge during the day (extra charge unless substituting). There’s also the daily afternoon tea, including pastries, cookies, and hot beverages, and complimentary yoga classes in the mornings before the ski day.

Standard room rates are around $400, with lower priced rooms that have not yet been remodeled, and even dorm rooms for as low as $122. All rooms, regardless of type, come with meals. I believe the value is absolutely there. We will be back with the whole family!

Skiing at Snowbird:

While at Alta, you should absolutely ski Snowbird as well. Located right ‘next door’, Snowbird offers terrain that rivals Alta (some say it’s better) and both can be skied with the same Mountain Collective Pass. It’s possible to ski from one resort to the other, so I absolutely recommend the dual pass. Alta lift tickets start at $89/day for adults, making it significantly less than larger Park City area resorts. Snowbird is under $100, and in spring, is reduced as much as 50%. It’s possible to upgrade day passes to include both Snowbird and Alta.

alta-ski-resort

We experienced Alta and the Alta Lodge as guests of Ski Utah, for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.