ski vacation - Pitstops for Kids

Grown-Up Getaway: Sundance Resort Utah

November 7, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

You probably don’t need an excuse to plan a luxurious grown-up getaway this fall or winter, but just in case, I’ve got the ultimate: a stay at Sundance Resort. An easy commute from Salt Lake City, Sundance is located in the heart of the Wasatch Mountains directly under the shadow of dramatic Mt. Timpanogos. It’s affectionately known as ‘Bob’s place’, for founder and owner Robert Redford. And yes, he still spends ample time here.

In summer and fall, Sundance is a prime location for hiking, biking, and generally communing with nature, and in winter, its ski resort offers 450 acres of terrain. All year round, guests can enjoy Sundance’s stellar spa, art studio (with classes), yoga, meditation, and fine dining.

Why I recommend Sundance for the grown ups:

Don’t get me wrong: Sundance Resort is equipped to accommodate kids. It has refreshingly low lift ticket rates, which appeal to families, and the woodsy setting will certainly make kids feel at home. The thing is, you may not want them there. Sundance’s vibe is decidedly serene, with an emphasis on self-reflection, revitalization, and pampering. Imagine yourself sliding into your private jacuzzi tub or chilling on your deck in an adirondack chair, cocktail in hand…without kids to supervise.

The feeling of relaxation starts before you arrive. The drive from Salt Lake City (I came from the airport) takes about 45 minutes, the last few winding through a slotted canyon as you climb into the mountains. Immediately, you feel isolated from the bustle of the valley, a feeling that’s reinforced when you visit the reception center then wind uphill to find your accommodation tucked into the trees. The entire resort feels very intimate and manageable: you won’t see big parking lots or lodge buildings.

Lodging at Sundance:

I stayed in a studio suite about a 10 minute walk from the reception area. Lodging ranges from rooms and condos (of which there are 100) to a smaller selection of mountain homes. Condos range from studios to three-to-four bedrooms. My studio included a kitchenette (microwave, sink, coffee maker, and mini-fridge with counter space), a wood-burning fireplace, sitting area, large bathroom with jacuzzi tub, bedroom area with one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in, and a porch with chairs overlooking a creek and woods. The entire space was decorated with purpose: it was artsy, warm, and inviting.

Dining and shopping:

Sundance is known for boutique shopping, high dining, and outdoors-pursuits. In the central area at the base of the hill (by the reception area) is Sundance’s main shop, with everything you’d find in the Sundance catalogue, from jewelry to boutique clothing to logo items. Across the street, the small art studio offers classes as well as fine art. In fact, Sundance hires two glassblowers to be on staff seasonally, who make all of the resort’s glassware.

Sundance has a marketplace with items like sandwiches, smoothies, and pastries, plus candy and snacks to buy a la carte. The Foundry is what Sundance calls its ‘casual’ dining restaurant, but I might beg to differ (in a good way). The log cabin feel of the room is both warm and elegant; don’t miss the wall-to-wall mural at the back. You can get breakfast, lunch, and dinner here; we ate a wonderful breakfast before skiing.

Sundance’s signature restaurant is the Tree Room, where I dined surrounded by the private art and native artifact collections of Robert Redford himself. The dining experience here is exquisite, with impeccable service and a deep wine list. Expect to pay at least $30-40 per entree, but also prepare to be very satisfied with the experience. The atmosphere in the Tree Room is certainly refined, but not in a stuffy way. We had a lively group who loved socializing, and we felt right at home.

Also not to be missed: The Owl Bar, located adjacent to the Foundry. This rustic (yet again, somehow elegant) bar is the ideal apres ski spot, with craft cocktails served over the bar that once stood in Thermopiles, Wyoming during the late 1890s. Its most famous guests back in the day: Butch Cassidy and his gang. You can get appetizers and small plates in the Owl Bar, as well as beer on tap.

The Spa at Sundance:

My massage therapist at Sundance told me that she has clients who fly into Sundance and book a stay solely for the spa. After the most in-depth facial I’ve ever had, I can see why. The spa is located amid the lodging rooms at Sundance, and like the rest of the resort, it’s small and intimate. When I arrived, I was shown a place to change and given a Sundance tote bag to store my belongings (no locker rooms here). I was next directed to a chair by the fireplace, where I enjoyed a hot stone foot soak pre-treatment. The spa has a full line of services.

Outdoor recreation at Sundance:

Every day during our stay, complimentary yoga and meditation classes were offered at the yoga yurt at Sundance. There are also numerous walking and jogging trails. In summer, you’ll find horseback riding, mountain biking, and golf. In winter, there’s both a downhill skiing resort and nordic center for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. The downhill resort has just one base area (right by the shop and Foundry), with its own rental center, small pro shop, and lift. Three additional lifts connect the first to a total of 45 runs.

Would I come for the skiing? Maybe not…after all, Sundance has some stiff competition in that department in the region. However, at Sundance, it’s about the overall experience: no lift lines, great service, wonderful food, a relaxed atmosphere. I’d be hard pressed to name a more beautiful ski area, as you ski directly below stunning Mt. Timpanogos. If you go, absolutely take a ski break at the top for some nachos at Bearclaw Cabin; you’ll feel as though you’re at the top of the world.

Rates:

Rates begin at about $395 per night, and go upward from there. However, rates vary widely by season and room type, and come with major perks: rooms come with two complimentary lift tickets, as well as first tracks privileges. You also get free yoga and other wellness classes. Some rooms do include full kitchens and lofts for kids; if you do bring the family, you’ll want this amenity because eating every meal out would get very expensive. Without the kids, I’d splurge on the wonderful dining opportunities.

Directions:

Sundance is located at 8841 N. Alpine Loop Road . From Salt Lake City, get onto I-80 east. Then turn right onto I-215 heading south. Next take I–15 South towards Provo. Continue on I-15 to exit #272 (which is 800 North in Orem) turn left heading east. Stay on 800 North through Orem to the mouth of the canyon. Stay in left hand lane, which will drop onto Hwy 189. Continue up the canyon approximately 7 miles to Scenic Route #92 which is the first left after the tunnel. Sundance is 2 miles up the canyon on the left.

Disclosure: I was a guest of Sundance Resort for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

South Lake Tahoe lodging for families: Aston Lakeland Village

April 13, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

I might as well admit it: I’m a North Lake Tahoe girl. I grew up near North Tahoe, and because of this, I simply know the area better. While I do love skiing at Sierra-at-Tahoe and Kirkwood on the South side, my heart–usually–belongs to the North. Why ‘usually’? Because until a spring skiing visit last year, I didn’t know Aston Lakeland Village existed.

Aston Lakeland Village is exactly what you want in winter ski or summer lake fun accommodations with the family: its townhouse give you room to spread out, you can cook in, you have pools and hot tubs at your disposal, and it’s affordable. Plus, in winter, you get a complimentary breakfast daily. Comped breakfast…in a townhouse? What?!

My beef with South Tahoe is the constant energy of the downtown ‘strip’. Because of its location in Nevada, South Tahoe has gambling, and a lot of it. Now, I know some people enjoy this energetic ambiance, but when I’m on a mountain getaway, I want tranquility. Even though Lakeland Village is only about half a mile from the casinos, it’s completely quiet, in a wooded setting right on the lake shore.

Did I forget to say Lakeland Village is, indeed, lakeside? This was the view from our room.

I get excited when I talk about family ski lodging with true value, because it’s hard to come by. Enjoying a ski vacation, or a summer lakeside vacation in Tahoe, is an expensive endeavor. That fact is not lost on me, trust me. At Lakeland Village, you get a swimming beach right on the lake, big townhouses with full kitchens, free breakfast (in winter), two pool complexes, free parking and wifi, and…wait for it…comped ski lift tickets with certain packages.

We tried this out at the end of March 2016, receiving lift tickets to Sierra-at-Tahoe (Lakeland Village also offers tickets to Heavenly). It was so convenient to get our tickets at check-in, put them on our jackets, and go straight to the lifts upon arrival at Sierra. Check Lakeland’s package deals before you book; it may be well worth it to opt for a lift ticket package. Discounted lift tickets are also available.

Our townhouse at Lakeland Village had a living space with TV and fireplace, a large outdoor deck overlooking the lake (with table and chairs), two full bathrooms, and three bedrooms (plus an additional bedroom considered a ‘sleeping loft’). Um, we had more room than we knew what to do with. You could easily sleep 10 in this type of townhouse, which means Lakeland Village qualifies in my favorite type of ski lodging category: perfect for multigenerational groups.

We literally stepped off our deck to reach the beachside swimming complex, where we could dip into the hot tub. (Pools are closed in winter, but an additional pool and hot tub, both open year-round, are located near the reception area and lodge.) In summer, I can imagine BBQing from the deck while the kids swim in the lake (there’s a roped-off swimming area).

Townhouse pricing:

Lakeland Village offers standard lodge rooms all the way up to five-bedroom lakeside townhouses. We had a ‘lake view’ townhouse (which meant it was 50 steps from the beach instead of 30), and during the spring season, it was listed at $359/night. Split between a couple families, that’s downright budget-friendly, right on the water in South Tahoe. Prices will vary by season, of course, but with multiple deals offered every day, this is an option families should look into when searching for South Lake Tahoe lodging.

Included in the price was the free breakfast and full maid service daily (rare in town homes). The lift ticket deal is a separate package; just call when booking if you don’t see the option online. The only thing missing was a washer and dryer, which is so helpful for skiing families. There are coin-operated laundry facilities in the main lodge, but boy did I wish we had them in the townhouse.

When we go to South Tahoe, we ski at Sierra-at-Tahoe, because of its low-key vibe, great ski school, and expert terrain. Read our full review of Sierra-at-Tahoe here.

Disclosure: We stayed at Lakeland Village as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. Without these stays, we would be unable to provide our readers with honest reviews.

A Southern Snowcation in North Carolina’s High Country

January 27, 2016 By Sharlene Earnshaw

The following post is written by guest reviewer Sue Rodman of Field Trips with Sue.

Living in the Deep South has its advantages. Our mild winters mean pretty much any outdoor activity has year round accessibility. My boys have even been able to swim in the ocean over Christmas break. But when winter rolls around, sometimes it’s fun to be able to play in the snow too.

I’m from Atlanta. We don’t get much snow, and when we do it generally shuts down the entire city. That’s great news for the kids who just head out to the local golf course instead of going to school, but by late morning, the snow is gone and you’re sledding down a mud trail.

For Southerners who want a real winter experience, but don’t have the time, money or inclination to head out west or to the Northeast, North Carolina’s High Country has some of the best southern skiing, as well as wintertime activities. Plus, most of the mountains have their own snow making capabilities, so even if Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate, you’re still guaranteed a little winter white.

Skiing in North Carolina

The High Country of North Carolina has six different ski resorts. The most well known, are Sugar Mountain and Beech Mountain. These resorts offer high-speed chair lifts and beginner through advanced trails, as well as lots to do off the slopes. However, don’t discount the smaller resorts, especially if you have young or novice skiers. Appalachian Mountain’s French Swiss Ski College is one of the best in the state and has taught over a million people how to ski. Cataloochee Ski Resort caters to the first time skier with beginner trails covering almost half of the mountain.

Off the Slopes Fun

You don’t have to ski in order to enjoy a winter snow vacation. Hawks Nest is a snow tubing park in the area and a favorite for visitors and locals. They also have a zip line course that is open throughout the winter. Sugar, Beech, Wolf Ridge and Sapphire Valley ski resorts also have snow-tubing parks, and Sapphire Valley even has a zip line. One of my favorite wintertime activities is ice-skating. Sugar, Beech, and App Mountain have an ice-skating rink on site. App Mountain’s ice skating arena was even voted one of the best rinks for families by Family Travel site Trekaroo. The City of Beech Mountain maintains a free family sledding hill in the middle of town with snow guns to ensure coverage and referees so it doesn’t get too crazy. The Buckeye Recreation Center on Beech Mountain rents snowshoes for anyone that would like to hike through the gorgeous trails during winter.

Photo credit: Beech Mtn and Sue Rodman

Vermont skiing with kids: Okemo Mountain Resort

November 11, 2015 By Amy Hagstrom

For families itching to spend a weekend skiing in Vermont, but dreading a long car ride, Okemo Mountain Resort is the answer! It’s located only about an hour into Vermont, making it one of the state’s most accessible resorts.

But don’t let its southern location fool you—it’s a big mountain with a lot of varied terrain. There’s plenty to keep the kids busy, while letting the more experienced skiers in your group try out some moguls and glade runs. Read Okemo Mountain reviews, however, and you’ll find one of the highlights of the mountain: the Sunburst Six chairlift with a bubble cover and heated seats. We could have ridden that chair all day!

Jackson-Gore Inn

The facilities at Okemo are spit into two main areas—the Clock Tower Base Area, and the Jackson Gore Base Area. Both areas offer lodging, food, lift tickets, and lessons. We stayed at the Jackson Gore Inn, and found all we needed right at our doorstep. From our one-bedroom suite in Adams House, we could ski in/ski out, or walk a few steps to the Jackson Gore center that offers a variety of restaurants, ski rentals, children’s programs, and an indoor/outdoor pool. Once we parked in the indoor, heated garage (a HUGE perk on a cold weekend!) we didn’t pile back in our car until it was time to leave on Sunday afternoon.

Our suite at Jackson Gore was a one-bedroom apartment with a full kitchen, two bathrooms, a pull-out couch in the living room, and a cozy fireplace. All facilities are updated and in great condition. Skis can be left in lockers downstairs, checked at the main building of the Jackson Gore Inn, or left slopeside, making it that much easier to get two kids dressed and out the door in time for a full day on the slopes. The location of the Jackson Gore Inn (and the affiliated houses—Adams House and Bixby House) is unbeatable. It’s located directly on the mountain, and right next to the snow tubing and Timber Ripper Mountain Coaster. In addition to the indoor/outdoor pool located at the Jackson Gore base area, each house also has it own slopeside hot tubs, just for guests. Definitely worth a visit after a long day skiing!

The Mountain:

So, the lodging and amenities are great, but how is the skiing? When my family visited, we found great coverage, most trails open (even glade runs), and very reasonable lift lines. While most of the mountain is accessible to beginners and intermediate skiers, my kids (4 and 6) found their favorite beginner runs on the Sunburst Six chair (or maybe they just loved warming up on the heated seats!). The one problem with taking beginners so far up the mountain (as opposed to staying on the beginner chairs at either base area) is that eventually you ended up on the Mountain Road trail, which could get crowded and crossed a lot of busy trails. This trail is the main route to traverse from the Jackson Gore area over to Okemo Mountain, and it can get a little hectic, especially for beginners who can’t always stop on a dime. When we were skiing without the kids, though, we found some great expert terrain on the South Face Express, and the Jackson Gore Express. Because Okemo is so spread out horizontally (as opposed to vertically), it’s fun to explore across the mountain where you’ll inevitably find an uncrowded pocket of mountain with great trails.

Snow Stars Ski Program:

Our kids, aged 6 and 4, were delighted to discover that they would be in the same group for their all-day lesson at Okemo. They were both in the Snow Stars program, and because they have similar abilities (but mostly for the benefit of our four year old!) they were able to be in the same group. At Okemo, you have 6 different ability levels to choose from, depending on your child’s experience and skill level. They range from red—first time on the mountain, to black—skiing confidently on steep terrain, glades, etc. While the more experienced kids have the run of the mountain, the beginners have a large area at the Jackson Gore base with multiple magic carpets and a great beginner hill.

Timber Ripper Mountain Coaster:

The Timber Ripper Mountain Coaster is a great ride for all the members of your family. We’ve been to a few mountain coasters, and always have a great time. It’s one of the few “roller coaster” type rides that little ones can do (you only need to be 36” to be a passenger), but it’s still exciting enough to be fun for the big kids (or grownups) in your group. Because each ride is charged individually ($13 for the driver, $9 for an extra passenger), it’s probably worthwhile to get an Adventure Zone wrist band (available in the summer, $55) and try out all of the activities—including a climbing wall, bungee trampoline, and more!

Snow Tubing:

We thought that the snow tubing was one of the most fun activities off the slopes—it’s a bargain, too, at only $13 for an hour of tubing. Sledders ride up the magic carpet with their tubes, and go for unlimited rides. Trust me, you can get a LOT of rides in within an hour! The sleds are great too—comfy enough for kids, super safe, and FAST! We definitely recommend tubing any time; it’s a great break for the kids after a long day on the slopes.

Directions:

Okemo is located in Ludlow, Vermont, at 77 Okemo Ridge Road. Take I-91 to access from MA.

Disclosure: Our family experienced Okemo as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Where to stay in Breckenridge: Mountain Thunder Lodge review

October 28, 2015 By Amy Hagstrom

When we’re on a ski vacation, or visiting a ski resort in summer to hike and mountain bike, we often opt to stay right inside the ski village…the hustle and bustle can be exciting and fun. But by far, the best perk of village lodging is the easy access to the slopes. Breckenridge is a very unique ski resort, in that its lifts and peaks stretch almost across the length of town. What this means to visiting families: ski-in, ski-out options can be had outside of the ski area village.

Mountain Thunder Lodge is an official Breck resort located a bit away from the ski resort village, but still within skiing and walking distance of the gondola. The upside: families are in a quieter, more homey setting, with room to spread out while still skiing in and out. The downside: riding the access gondola can mean spending quite a bit of time traversing Breckenridge Resort once on the mountain, depending on where you want to ski or ride on an given day.

In summer and fall, the location of Mountain Thunder Lodge is an even better deal: families are in ride-in, ride-out distance of mountain biking trails and the recreational bike path. In fact, two green (beginning) and at least one blue (intermediate) bike and hike trails are located directly behind Mountain Thunder. In all seasons, guests are in easy walking distance to Main Street.

Mountain Thunder Lodge consists of studio and one-bedroom to three-bedroom condos and 1-3 bedroom townhomes. All come with full kitchens. I checked out a one-bedroom condo, which had garage and elevator access and a spacious balcony. The living room area included a pull-out bed, and flowed into the kitchen area. I stayed in Building 5, which was close to the walking trail to Main Street and directly adjacent to the outdoor heated pool and hot tubs. Building 5 and 1 have small exercise rooms and each condo has a ski locker, located off the first floor lobby. Laundry facilities are located in each building, and are free of charge. Townhomes have their own laundry in-house.

We loved having access to year round swimming, and it was easy to get to town via the pedestrian tunnel (families just walk across the gondola parking lot after the tunnel, following signage to Main Street). Bike storage is available in each garage during summer months.

Mountain Thunder does not have its own dining on-site, but I never missed this; we were close to Main Street for our dining needs, and had a full kitchen as well. In our condo, maid service was limited, but we found we did not need service every day. Daily service can be arranged.

Room rates:

One-bedroom condos like described above average just over $200 per night. Rates go up in peak season. A two-bedroom condo is only slightly more cost at around $250 per night.

Directions:

Mountain Thunder Lodge is located at 50 Mountain Thunder Drive, just off Park Street and Ski Hill Drive. It’s a five minute walk from Main Street, and on the free shuttle route.

As we disclose whenever applicable, this stay was made possible by Breckenridge tourism, for the purpose of review.

June Mountain skiing for families: the best kept secret of the Sierras

February 17, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Skiing families have heard of Mammoth Mountain, one of the largest ski resorts in the western US. But are your familiar with Mammoth’s little sister, June? June Mountain Ski Area is located less than 20 minutes from Mammoth, tucked into a blissfully serene corner of the Eastern Sierras adjacent to pretty June Lake. Arrive at June—which cozies up to the boundary of Yosemite National Park—and you’d swear you’re a world away from busy, often crowded Mammoth.

June Mountain closed its doors for the 2012-2013 season, much to the dismay of the local community and its loyal patrons, and re-opened this season (2013-2014) with new energy, new ideas, and a new focus: families.

June Mountain skiing for families:

The potential as a family-focused ski area has been present in June’s foundation all along: arriving at June, families find just one parking lot (as opposed to half a dozen), one chair over the face of the mountain to the main lodge, and plenty of greeters to help with all that ski equipment. The ‘Chalet’ lodge is beautiful, peaceful, and offers breathtaking views of the Sierras, and provides families with all they need (and not more): dining services, lockers, rentals, and a roaring fireplace.

The terrain at June is 45% intermediate and 35% beginner, making it an ideal place to focus on making those first turns without crowds or distractions, but the 20% of advanced terrain is nothing to scoff at: I practically drooled looking at the black diamond chutes at June, and the ski area is known for its excellent backcountry. In this manner, June offers skiers and snowboarders two extremes: intense off-trail glade and tree skiing and easy groomers. Note: the only less-than-young-kid-friendly aspect of June Mountain is the initial J1 chair, required to access the lodge and ski terrain. This double chair rises up and over the June face, and can be more difficult to load than most chairs (due to the bar in the center). Families with backpacks or other gear and young kids will want to ask the lifties to slow the chair until they’re well-versed, and you’ll want to use the safety bar on the ascent. This chair can be downloaded as well, for families not wishing to ski to the bottom at the end of the day.

Families’ ski vacation dollars will stretch much farther at June than Mammoth. Lessons are roughly half the cost, and kids 12 and under ski free at June any and every day of the year. No blackout dates. No restrictions. What this means to me: I can afford to pay for multiple-day lessons for my school-aged kids!

Youth (ages 13-17) pay just $48 for a regular one-day lift ticket, and adults $72, but if you’ll be there more than four days in a season, June season passes offer even steeper savings. With 1,400 skiable acres, June is far more manageable for families; parents can allow kids free reign to explore, and with only one lodge, there’s no fear of school-aged kids getting lost on the hill. You get seven lifts and 35 named trails, with plenty more in the trees.

The nature nut in me loves that fact that June appreciates its location on National Forest Service land and incorporates nature walks and interpretive programs into its kids’ programming. Expect to see scheduled nature walks during the day, and check out signage pointing out animal tracks to be observed in the snow. Pretty different from your average ski resort, right?

Still not sure? If you’re skiing at Mammoth Mountain, you can try June risk-free: your Mammoth lift ticket is good here. Our recommendation: start at June for lessons for the kids (or yourself) and work your way up to Mammoth. We’re fans of both mountains, but our ultimate goal at Pit Stops for Kids is to help families make the most of their vacations and spend their ski trip budget wisely. Try June and see the value of a relaxed, friendly, low-key ski community!

Lodging:

There are several options in June Lake, just minutes from the ski area. However, if you’re staying at Mammoth, rest assured: you’re only 20 minutes away.

Dining:

You’ll find good ski hill fare at the Chalet lodge at June, but this resort is ‘sack lunch friendly’ as well. In the town of June Lake, apres or dinner options can be found along the main drag from the ski area.

Directions:

June Mountain, Ca. is located about 20 miles north of Mammoth Lakes in June Lake. From US 395, take Hwy. 158 west at the June Lake Loop. Drive approx. 4 miles to the ski area.

Best Ski Towns: an overview of Keystone Mountain for kids

February 10, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

We love Keystone Resort for kids! If you’re planning a Vail area ski trip with children, head to Keystone where kids ski free, kid-friendly programming abounds, and ski village convenience reigns. There’s no better place to start kids off skiing or riding, but if you have expert skiers and riders in tow, don’t worry: so do we, and we found some of our favorite expert terrain and challenging runs at Keystone! Here’s our overview on Keystone Resort vacation planning:

Resort overview:

Keystone Resort is located in Dillon, Colorado in the heart of Vail ski country. From Denver, it’s a two-hour drive (read up on Keystone transportation tips below). Once in Keystone, families find themselves in a sprawling resort including 10 distinct ‘neighborhoods’, with lodging options ranging from vacation homes in the woods to condos in the heart of the villages (yep, there’s more than one). The ski terrain consists of three distinct peaks (Dercum, North Peak, and Outback), with a very orderly system: front Dercum Peak serves beginning and intermediate skiers and riders exclusively, with the terrain getting more challenging the further ‘back’ you go.

Where to stay:

For ski-in, ski-out lodging (for which there’s an abundance at Keystone), families will want to base themselves in either River Run Village or Mountain House. Mountain House offers Kamp Keystone headquarters, while River Run houses Kidtopia (more on both Kamp Keystone and Kidtopia below) and many more dining and entertainment options.

Condo and suite options abound at Keystone. Our pick: River Run Village. All River Run Village accommodations offer ski-in and ski-out proximity, or an easy walk to the River Run Gondola. You’ll need to take the free Village to Village Shuttle to the Mountain House area for Kamp Keystone (or ski there) but everything else is at your fingertips. In River Run, we stayed at The Springs, adjacent to the gondola and steps from dining and village fun (with an excellent pool complex, to boot) but you really can’t go wrong with any of the River Run buildings.

Where to ski:

As noted above, beginners and intermediate skiers will find an entire mountain of offerings on Dercum Peak. The newly opened Schoolyard features on School Marm include terrain features and trails with fun structures to ski through (like mascot Riperoo’s dog house). The H&H Mine (located off intermediate Santa Fe) lets kids ski through mine shafts. The A-51 terrain park is also located on Dercum. Intermediate and advanced skiers and riders will want to progress to North Peak for long, steep groomers and moguls, and finally to Outback Peak for tree runs, powder runs, and steeps.

One of the best features on Keystone for expert skiers and riders is the easy access to hike-able and kat-serviced terrain. From the top of Outback, skiers can wait in line for a kat shuttle, taking them to North or South Bowls for very fun powder runs without long hikes. (There’s also a five minute hike from this point that takes skiers or riders to great tree runs.) You’ll need to be an advanced skier to take advantage of this, and you’ll need $5 to ride the kat shuttle. Be flexible: the terrain is only open after avalanche control is conducted by ski patrol and only when weather and conditions permit. We waited about 10 minutes for our turn on the kat, and noted that advanced Kamp Keystone classes were enjoying the experience with their ski guides.

Tip: Allow 30 minutes or more for traversing between the three mountains: if you’re on Outback and need to get back to the front of Dercum, you’ll need to take the slow Wayback chair, which takes some time. There are no services (i.e., bathrooms or dining) on Outback, so plan time to get back to the Outpost on North Peak. The River Run Gondola and the Outpost Gondola run both directions, allowing you to download, but do close in strong winds.

Where to eat:

River Run Village offers great apres ski fare at 9280 Taphouse and Kickaboo Tavern. Both are kid-friendly, but the livelier bar scene is usually at 9280. New Moon Cafe serves a good, fast breakfast of burritos, breakfast bowls, egg sandwiches, and waffles (and keeps on serving it all day). Rockin’ R Ranch has grocery items in a pinch, though you’ll want to shop in Dillon for most ingredients for food in your condo.

For a nice night out, consider Ski Tip, located adjacent to River Run and the site of the historic beginnings of Keystone Resort. The charming B&B at Ski Tip offers gourmet (and often locally sourced) cuisine. We’ve also had great meals at Bighorn in Keystone Lodge, located in Lakeside Village. If you time your meal right, you can get a great view of the Saturday evening Kidtopia fireworks from Bighorn (which overlooks the lake). Spend a few hours skating, then head over for dinner.

For a truly special night out that’s also decidedly kid-friendly, book a dinner sleigh ride through the Adventure Center (in Lakeside Village). We loved our chilly but serene sleigh ride (complete with cozy blankets) to a remote historic ranch, where we were served classic cowboy fare and serenaded by a friendly guitar player. Kids of any age will enjoy the experience, but note that the event departs and returns to Lakeside Village, necessitating a Village to Village Shuttle ride pre-and post dinner (making for a long night). Kids over age 4 will have the best time (as will their parents).

How to get around:

If you didn’t bring a car to Keystone, no worries: the Village to Village shuttle is free, fast, and easy to use. This shuttle connects guests between Lakeside Village (home of Keystone Lodge), Mountain House, and River Run with ease; we’ve never found need to travel to any other sections of Keystone during our stays.

The drive from Denver International Airport to Keystone is approximately two hours, and we’ve always taken CME (Colorado Mountain Express). This van service should be factored into your transportation budget (check to see if it’s cheaper to fly to Vail from Denver), but after three trips with CME, I’ve found them to be always on time, always professional, and always good to work with. CME will take you directly to your condo registration or hotel registration building, then to your front door.

What’s Kidtopia?

Kidtopia is Keystone’s version of a kid-centric cruise schedule: it includes weekly free activities for kids and families such as scheduled parades, scavenger hunts, firework displays, painting and clay crafts at Kidtopia Headquarters, ice skating with Riperoo, and much more. The Kidtopia snow castle sits at the top of Dercum Peak, in which kids to can stop to play, climb, and slide down icy tubes into snow. You’ll get a Kidtopia schedule at check-in, allowing you to plan what you’d like to do or see. Tip: Kidtopia Headquarters are open most days for drop-in visits to paint or create pottery for a fee. This is a great activity in poor weather, or for younger siblings while older siblings ice skate at the adjacent outdoor rink.

In addition to official Kidtopia activities, Keystone also offers tubing at Adventure Point, which is at the top of Dercum Peak. We love that families can stop to tube in the middle of their ski day (if you’re wearing ski boots, you have to tube solo), or that non-skiers can ride the gondola up for a top-of-the-mountain experience. Make a reservation ahead of time! Ice skating is available at both River Run (on a traditional outdoor rink) or Lakeside Village (on the largest Zamboni-served skating lake in the US). There’s also a Nordic Center and snow biking.

What about lessons?

Keystone’s lessons for kids center around Kamp Keystone, a ski and ride center designed to be a multi-day experience. Kids booked in Kamp Keystone three days or more are guaranteed the same instructor each day, which is kind of a big deal (try getting the same instructor daily at other resorts and you’ll know what I mean). At the end of each day, parents are given a detailed account of their child’s progress, as well as a full report on EpicAcademy. (EpicAcademy is a new feature of EpicMix; with a Vail Resorts’ lift ticket, you’ll get mountain stats, photos, and Academy updates for yourself and your kids.)

Even advanced skiers and riders are taken care of at Kamp Keystone; they offer lessons through level 9. These groups head to the higher peaks of the resort, and often eat lunch on the go at any of the on-mountain dining areas instead of in Kamp Keystone, as most groups do. (Lunch is always included in full day lessons.)

Tip: Depending on the size of your family, opting for a family private lesson may be less expensive than enrolling each child in a group lesson. We love private lessons: usually, up to six people can be on one lesson, and family groups get to dictate where they ski and what they hope to do during their ski day. Instructors not only teach during the day, but also act as excellent guides, showing families parts of the mountain they may miss otherwise. Plus, private lesson parties use the ski school line…a huge savings in time during crowded days. If your whole family (or even just the kids) could use a lesson, but you’d still like to ski as a family, check out private lesson options! (Unlike group lessons, private lessons depart from both River Run or Mountain House from the Ski and Ride School buildings. It’s also possible to meet your instructor elsewhere on the mountain.

Have you skied Keystone? What tips can you share?

The above post is written in conjunction with my partnership with VacationRoost.com. As I disclose whenever applicable, our stay at Keystone was complimentary, for the purpose of review.

Smuggler’s Notch with kids: guide to skiing for adults

February 21, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

I grew up skiing in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, so I have a healthy skepticism of New England skiing. The mountains aren’t as big, there’s not as much snow (although there also aren’t as many giant Manzanita bushes to get stuck in…just saying), and there’s too much ice. Well, I still can’t ski on ice, but I’m coming around to New England ski resorts, and Smuggler’s Notch is one of the best spots I’ve seen. There are plenty of sections of intermediate trails (especially on Morse Mountain), but two of the three mountains (Madonna and Sterling) are full of legitimate black diamonds and double black diamonds. Smuggler’s Notch also boasts New England’s only triple black diamond, but it was closed on the weekend we visited (and from the look of it, I wouldn’t have tried it had it been open!).

If you like to go off-trail, Smuggs is the where you want to be! During our stay, I experienced a great session with an instructor who teaches adult lessons, and we barely touched a groomed, marked run the entire time. Off-trail bumps and tree runs are everywhere, and the rule is thus: if you ski off-trail but are able to return to a marked run, you haven’t gone out of bounds. Meaning almost everything is fair game! We even hiked a little bit above the top of Sterling to the Long Trail, and skied down a tree run that finally (and legally!) linked back up to one of the marked runs.

Even if you’re a very good skier, it can be a lot of fun to take a lesson, because it’s a great way to get an insider’s view of the mountain. There were all kinds of great trails I never would have found on my own. I have to say that I haven’t had that much fun skiing in years! It didn’t hurt that it snowed 3–4 inches the night we got there, and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky all weekend!

Skiers will also appreciate the way the mountain is set up. The Village Center, condos, swimming pool, etc. are all located at the base of Morse Mountain. This is also where you’ll find the kids’ programs and Treasures (child care). To get over to Madonna and Sterling, where the big skiing is, you have to ride up the Morse Mountain lift and ski over to the other lifts. At the base of Madonna and Sterling, there is a small base lodge, and not a lot else. (You can also drive directly to Madonna and Sterling, but if you’re staying in the condos, it’s easier to ski over.) This configuration minimizes traffic and congestion at the most popular lifts, so you feel like you’re at a small, funky hill with a lot of great terrain.

Tip: The fact that both Madonna and Sterling lifts are pretty slow doubles really enhances the funky old resort feel, and it’s also why it’s great to come on a day that’s not too crowded. Lift lines can take a while when it’s busy.

Smuggler’s Notch offers morning and afternoon adult lesson sessions, lasting two hours. Afternoon sessions are small (lessons are limited to five skiers), but during both my vacation days, I happened to be the only one signed up, and had a private lesson! If you have older kids (ages 6–17), you can sign them up for morning or afternoon lessons to coincide with your own. This would work well for kids who are independent skiers and don’t want to sign up for an all-day program, but are looking to learn some new skills.

Smuggler’s Notch with kids: programming for babies, toddlers, and preschoolers

February 17, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’re like a lot of families with very young kids (think pre-K), the prospect of a ski vacation is tempting, but overwhelming. Who wants to spend precious vacation dollars taking endless runs on the bunny hill with a toddler while your partner is stuck in the lodge chasing a baby determined eat every French fry she finds on the floor? Family ski resorts like Smuggler’s Notch understand this, and provide age-appropriate programming to help families take (and actually enjoy!) ski vacations with young kids. To put Smuggs’ legendary family-friendliness to the test, my husband and I set out from our home in Massachusetts with Homer (3) and Greta (1) for a three-night stay.

Homer was just old enough to enroll in their Discovery Camp (included in most packages), and Greta spent some quality time at the TREASURES child care center (ages six weeks to three). And what did TJ and I do? We skied all day, ate lunch at the lodge, and lounged in the hot tub. Heaven!

The Discovery Dynamos program is for kids aged three to five, and accommodates all ability levels. Homer had already been skiing a few times this winter, so he was bumped up to a group that uses the beginner chair lift, but a lot of the younger groups use Sir Henry’s Learning Hill. This is a nice, wide bunny hill serviced by a magic carpet (it is also where the Burton Riglet Park for beginner snowboarders is located). Also, much to Homer’s delight, the program uses a tractor and wagon to haul kids to the upper slope-side condos, where they can enter the run and ski down without having to use the lifts (easier on the instructors, too!). The camp starts at 9 am, breaks for lunch around 11:30, then goes back out to ski until about 2:30 pm. In the afternoon, the kids come back inside for some indoor entertainment (on Homer’s days they had a science show and a movie). Needless to say, they sleep well at night!

The instructors are friendly, very focused on the kids, and seem to be really excited about reaching a new generation of skiers. If at all possible, I recommend that your child spend a few consecutive days in the program. Homer had the same teacher every day, and became a little more confident and outgoing every day. If your kids are older, keep in mind that there are similar all-day programs for kids up to 15 years of age.

Tip: Though all ski and board ability levels are welcome at the Dynamo level, kids must be potty trained!

While Homer ripped it up with his instructor, Greta spent her days at TREASURES. The facilities are beautiful, and the staff is extremely helpful and accommodating. They even have their own magic carpet lift in the adorable outdoor play area for the older toddlers to try some skiing (refer to the Little Rascals on Snow program)! They specialize in non-recurrent childcare, meaning that they are good at making your child feel comfortable in a new environment, with unfamiliar adults and children. Snacks and meals are provided, but you can bring your own if there’s something special that you know for child will like. They also ask you about mealtimes and naptimes, and really do their best to stick to your normal routine. At the end of the day, you’re given a card detailing everything your child ate, when they slept, and an overall impression of their day.

TREASURES is located right on the trail coming down into the Village Center, so you can easily ski in/ski out to check on your little one. One of the best features of the baby room (0–16 months) is the two-way mirror by the door that allows you peak in without being seen (and thereby causing a meltdown!). But the proof is in the pudding—Greta, who isn’t in any formal, regular childcare at home, had two and a half great days at TREASURES, which equated to TJ and I having two and a half great days of adults-only, guilt-free skiing!

Smuggler’s Notch Resort: planning your winter ski vacation with kids

February 15, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’re planning a ski vacation at one of the resorts in Vermont with young kids this winter, then Smuggler’s Notch, Vermont is the place for you. We recently got back from a great weekend at Smuggs with Homer (3) and Greta (1), and the convenience and accessibility of the resort made the weekend not just possible, but so much fun!

When reserving Smuggler’s Notch lodging, it’s important to note that the resort is comprised of five distinct ‘communities’ of condos, each with their own pros and cons. We opted to stay in a Village East slope-side condo (Hakone) that was just steps away from the Morse Mountain lift and the Village Center (which is complete with restaurants, a rental shop, and even a small grocery store, well-stocked with Ben and Jerry’s, of course!). We highly recommend staying this close to both amenities and the lifts with young kids; parents know just how important it is not to have to lug skis in and out of the car, pack lunches and backpacks to leave in the base lodge, and wrestle kids in and out of car seats every morning and afternoon! If you’re staying in one of the communities a little farther away from the action, however, there are shuttles going to and from the Village Center and Madonna/Sterling Mountains all day.

All Smuggler’s Notch condos are well-equipped with linens, dishes, pots and pans–basically everything but the groceries. You have the option of choosing anything from a studio to a five-bedroom condo (descriptions and layouts of which can be found at the Smuggs website), making it easy to find the perfect fit for your family.

When you make your condo reservation, you’re given the option of signing up for a Club Smuggler’s package (Base, Classic, or Summit). Packages include lodging, lift tickets, and the use of many amenities. With the Classic and Summit packages, Treasures childcare (six weeks to three years) and the all-day Discovery Camp (ages 3–5) are included. Be sure to take advantage of this: when you break down the per-day expenses of child care and lift tickets, you’ll see that these packages are a great deal!

There are several great dining options at the Smuggs Village Center, but we mostly stuck to the groceries we brought from home (all condos have a full kitchen) and the Morse Mountain Grille in the nearby lodge. Travel Tip: the Morse Mountain Grille has a take-out option. Great for after a long day of skiing, and even better when you have two tired toddlers on your hands!

In the Village Center you’ll also find some bad-weather entertainment options like a heated indoor pool and hot tubs and the Fun Zone, a big indoor arena with a bounce house, all kinds of slides and games, and even a fenced-off area for babies and toddlers. For older kids (13¬18), Teen Alley and Outer Limits are supervised centers with Internet access, Xbox 360, and other activities.

Seasonal Tip: Keep in mind that the fun doesn’t stop when the snow melts. Smuggler’s Notch is a year-round resort with lots of kids’ programming all summer long. Activities for kids and grownups include swimming, hiking, climbing, tennis, and lots more.

Date last visited: February 3–6, 2012

Distance from the interstate: Smuggs is about 40 miles off I-89 in Vermont. Check out www.smuggs.com for directions; search engines like googlemaps or mapquest might try to send you to Smuggs via VT-108, a portion of which is closed between Stowe and Jeffersonville in the winter!

Rates and reservations: Rates vary by condo size, location, and time of year. Rates (including Club Smugglers Base, Classic, or Summit packages) range from $109 to $209 per person for adults, and from $79 to $199 for kids.

Directions: Smuggler’s Notch is located at 4323 Vermont Route 108 South in Jeffersonville. The most reliable directions are on the Smuggs website. Check-in is located in the Village Center by the main parking lot as you enter the resort.

As I disclose whenever applicable, Smuggler’s Notch hosted our stay for the purpose of review. While we appreciate such Vermont hospitality, this compensation came with no expectation of a positive review.