Yosemite National Park - Pitstops for Kids

Yosemite National Park travel tips: best tours, hikes, and advice

February 20, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

During a time when many vacations are not possible, outdoor activities in road trip-accessible locations offer the ability to safely social distance. Hotels.com asked me to share my favorite activities and tips for exploring the Yosemite area, so start here as you plan a safe and responsible vacation.

Yosemite National Park is one of the crown jewels of the national park system, and for good reason. Its stunning geological features, wildlife, and rich history make it ideal for an outdoors family vacation. This park has so much to offer, the following Yosemite National Park travel tips and touring advice are meant to supplement further research. Start with the official Yosemite National Park site to plan your trip, make sure activities and sites are open, and plan your lodging options! For touring advice and tips primarily for Yosemite’s Valley Floor region, read on.

Note: if you’re considering the Majestic Mountain Loop of three parks in one trip, start by viewing our Guide to Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

When to go:

Yosemite is open and active year round! While the vast majority of visitors arrive in the summer (of course), more is open during the off-season than many families realize. During fall and spring, some hikes and roads may be closed, but the majority are still at your disposal. Ditto for visitors centers and museums (just check seasonal hours). Winter is a wonderful time to stay on the valley floor without the crowds; families can easily rent snowshoes or Nordic skis to explore the area. If you must go in summer, don’t worry: the park is still very accessible with crowds. Plan to base your car in one location (ideally your lodging within the park) and take the free inter-park shuttle everywhere you need to go. We tried this out during a busy week in July (the peak of the busy season) and never waited more than five minutes for a shuttle bus. Busses run between campgrounds, lodges, visitors centers and hiking trailheads.

What to do on the valley floor:

Obviously, there’s too much to do in Yosemite to put into one post! The Tuolumne Meadows and Wawona regions are well-worth visits; however, if your family is new to the park, and you have at least three days, devote one morning to a Valley Floor Tour. This tour–conducted on motor coach in the off-season and open-air tram in the summer–offers a wonderful overview of the valley. If possible, ask for tour guide Bill: his knowledge is unparalleled, and he’s entertaining throughout! I loved that Bill described his tour as a ‘portal’ tour: he considered every major subject he addressed as merely a ‘portal’ to learning more (then gave the resources needed for those who wanted to dig deeper). Our Valley Floor Tour covered Yosemite Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, Tunnel View, Swinging Bridge, and Sentinel Rock, Cathedral rocks, and El Capitan. The bus stopped frequently, with plenty of photo ops. Because tours don’t stop for hiking, swimming, and the like, this is a good opportunity to note the areas you’d like to come back to on your own.

Lodging:

Where to stay in Yosemite National Park is as varied as individual family itineraries! For easiest access to the shuttle buses and to be within walking distance to the most sights, I’d opt for Yosemite Lodge or Camp Curry (be sure to reserve both well ahead of time). For families who may wish to divide their attention between Valley Floor activities and backcountry, many lodging options are located just outside the park.

Hiking:

Yosemite Falls: One of the easiest hikes to access from the valley floor, Yosemite Falls offers a very short hike to the lower falls, or a much more strenuous hike (3.8 miles one way) to Upper Yosemite Falls. Plan to spend the better part of the day if you tackle the latter! End your hike with a treat at the Food Court of Yosemite Lodge at the Falls.

Mist Trail: If you only do one hike in Yosemite, this should be it. But bear in mind that it will get very crowded in summer. Go early in the morning, or just before evening to beat the crowds (and heat). Enjoy the mist off Nevada and Vernal Falls as you make the short but very steep climb. If you’re up for more, this is the access point to hiking all the way to Half Dome to climb the backside using the cable system.

Note: permits are required for the Half Dome climb. You don’t need to be a rock climber, but you do have to be comfortable with heights and tall enough to hold the cables. If you’re not up for it, but do want a long hike, continue past the falls to Little Yosemite Camp, where you can watch the cable climbers.

Glacier Point to Valley Floor: This is another hike for the hearty! Use the free shuttle system so you only have to go one-way! Because you are directly across from Yosemite falls, you get a great perspective since you start above the falls, and see it at every height as you descend to the valley floor. If the kids are up for it, bribe them with a promise of ice cream at Yosemite Village and keep trekking across the valley floor.

Our review of family backcountry hiking and backpacking in Yosemite.

Museums, programs, and visitors centers:

A trip to the Yosemite Village Visitor Center and museum is absolutely worth your time. Kids (and adults) learn about geography and wildlife in the center, then can tour an outdoor Miwok village at the attached museum. We also loved the baskets on display, and during the summer months, Native American artisans are on-hand to show you their techniques. The village center also has stores, restaurants, and the like.

For winter activities and snow play, start at Yosemite lodging, such as Yosemite Lodge or Camp Curry. Both locations will have sleds to purchase and snowshoes to rent. Camp Curry has an ice-skating rink (tickets can be bought at either lodge). Guided nordic skiing tours to Glacier Point depart regularly in winter. In fall, be sure to ask about the Swinging Bridge Ladybuy Hatch. This amazing event takes place annually on the Swinging Bridge in the valley, when hundreds of thousands of ladybugs hatch. An amazing sight, and one guests can only see in autumn.

Park programs and nature walks are available year-round at Yosemite! Definitely sign up for one of the park’s watercolor classes, Junior Ranger programs, or, my current favorite: the Night Prowl. Led by a naturalist, the Night Prowl takes visitors on wooded trails by moonlight, which chances to see or hear nocturnal animals. Even if you don’t see animals, guides do a great job of relaying interesting information and conducting fun group exercises to help you adjust to the dark and understand your surroundings. This program is ideal for school-aged kids, and is a deal at only $5.50 per person.

Tip: Did you know park rangers are not the only naturalists leading guided tours and programs in Yosemite National Park? The park’s chief concessionaire also employs naturalists to lead excursions, often filling the gap left by budget cuts. These services are available to book from park lodging!

Multi-night river rafting on the Tuolumne River

August 31, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

The Tuolumne River near Yosemite National Park is one of the most pristine and exciting rivers I’ve experienced. But is river rafting safe during COVID-19? My fifteen-year-old son and I rafted the Tuolumne River for three days with OARS, and not only did we have the usual amazing time on the river I’ve come to expect from an OARS trip, but we felt safe and responsible, too.

All of our OARS trips include the same basic formula: clean mountain air + clean river water + starry skies and lots of adventure. Our three day, two night trip on the Tuolumne included all of the above, plus some additional safety measures that had been put into place.

Instead of flying, we drove to the meeting place from Southern Oregon (about a 7 hour drive) and stayed overnight in charming Groveland, California near the entrance of Yosemite National Park at the Groveland Hotel, which I highly recommend for their friendly hospitality, ample outdoor deck space with in-house dining, and whiskey bar (yes, really!).

The next morning, we met with our group of 12 additional rafters and trip leader, Rebecca, then boarded an OARS bus for the 45 minute drive to the put-in on the Tuolumne. We began experiencing the COVID-19 safety measures immediately.

How OARS makes river rafting safe during COVID-19

Before arrival, every guest filled out a health check-list and survey.
At the pre-trip meeting, everyone’s temperature was checked.
Everyone’s temp was checked every day of the trip thereafter.
Face coverings were worn by all on the bus and any other enclosed space, plus the kitchen area of camp every day.
Face coverings were also worn any time guests from separate families/parties interacted at a distance of less than six feet, such as in rafts, while setting up camp, etc.
Individuals were assigned all gear, including tents, pads, chairs, and sleeping bags…no swapping.
The OARS crew always wore face coverings while preparing food and setting up camp, and hand washing was mandatory for ALL multiple times per day.
Hugs were banned, but hand waves and air kisses sufficed!
Hand sanitizer, soap, and water for hand washing were available at all times.

Face coverings like Buffs double as eye masks during raft naps!

What you can ALWAYS expect from OARS on the Tuolumne

Whitewater, whitewater, whitewater! This river is technical and fast-moving, and offers a lot of Class IV and Class V rapids. As such, guests spend their time in paddle boats instead of individual IKs (inflatable kayaks, a.k.a ‘duckies’). At first my teen was bummed to not be able to man his own IK, but we agreed that the thrill of the whitewater made paddle-boating more fun than usual.

The river’s water level is controlled by daily releases from Hetch-Hetchy dam, which adds a particular challenge: your start time on the river might change daily based on how much water is flowing. For instance, on day 1, the water was released at 10 am, and we were off and floating. The last day, it wasn’t flowing until 3 pm, which meant we hiked and swam first.

Each day, we camped at another iconic location along the river, with views of foothills, eagles and hawks, and whitewater. The banks of this river are exposed and the sun beats down hot, but the river water is cold, so you’ll be refreshed often!

Our guides took us on side hikes up canyons and creek beds every day, where we were delighted by swimming holes and jumping rocks. Each hike was more ‘canyoneering’ than walking, so river shoes with good traction are a must. The hikes are short in length, however, and definitely worth the effort.

Each meal was carefully prepared for us by our OARS crew, and we dined on salmon, steak, eggs, bacon, French toast, fresh fruit, salad wraps, and more. Two beers or soft drinks per person, per night are included, as well as wine at dinner. Guests are free to bring their own additional beverages as desired, to be consumed in camp (not on the river).

If you have more generalized questions, or need camping, packing, or ‘grover’ (portable camp toilet) advice, please see our post on what to expect on every OARS trip.

Perhaps best of all about a Tuolumne River trip, you’re in close proximity to Yosemite! I highly recommend pairing your OARS adventure with some time exploring Yosemite National Park.

Yosemite lodging pick: Tenaya Lodge review

May 23, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

What a gem of a lodging option for Yosemite National Park! Tenaya Lodge at Yosemite is located just outside the park boundaries at the South Entrance, within very easy distance from Mariposa Grove and Wawona (just a few miles). Because the lodge is situated outside park boundaries, it can offer more guest rooms and sits on a large property. What this means for families: it’s far easier to get a reservation at Tenaya Lodge than at Yosemite Valley Floor locations, and offers more on-site recreation than you’d think!

Property overview:

Tenaya Lodge is a large property, but very compact. It has been recently renovated, with a wide variety of room categories, all of which include mini fridges, coffee service, and wifi. My spa suite included a tub I could swim in, plus a nice balcony. Even better for most families, Tenaya offers cottage rooms that can be connected to accommodate bigger families and family reunions, and brand new in 2019, Explorer Cabins at Tenaya Lodge, offering a “cabineering” experience.

Explorer cabins

The 50 stand-alone, two-bedroom Explorer Cabins are situated apart from the main lodge, giving families a sense of nature and serenity while still enjoying the perks of a full-service resort. You get a living room, kitchen, private deck, and sleeping for six. The ‘family’ units feature bunk beds (with a full on the bottom) and the others have a queen in one room, a king in the other. Family cabins also have bathtubs. The cabins also allow access to the Explorer Clubhouse, an 1,800-square-foot communal retreat with picturesque views. You can check in here, get grab-and-go breakfast, and enjoy evening wine and charcuterie receptions. Communal fire pit areas are sprinkled throughout the cabin clusters…a nice touch.

In the main lodge, all Tenaya rooms got a face lift several years ago. The main lobby is breathtaking and cozy at the same time, and families will feel the upscale ambiance but also appreciate how casual and kid-friendly the property is.

Lodge rooms

Recreation at Tenaya:

Tenaya has a full outdoor pool and hot tub complex open during the summer months, and a very large indoor pool and hot tub for the off-season. (This is in addition to the cottage-area indoor pool.) Kids will be happily surprised by a large arcade adjacent to the indoor pool, which features pool tables and other non-pay-to-play options, and parents will love the Ascent Spa. I enjoyed one of the best Swedish massages of my life here.

For all other on-site activities, your first stop should be the concierge office on the lobby level. Here, you can reserve mountain bikes (there are forest service roads and a paved bike path to explore), purchase archery sessions, and secure day passes to the kids’ ropes course. (More on all of this below.) You can also book a guided tour of Yosemite National Park, with half-day and full day options. You’ll be transported in a converted Sprinter van designed for an open-air experience (think van convertible!). In summer, reserve at least one night to enjoy the Old West Summerdale Barbecue, where kids can shoot arrows at the adjacent archery range while adults make new friends at an outdoor BBQ pit.

So yes, Tenaya offers archery (for everyone over age 5) on-site, as well as a multitude of hiking and biking trails. These trails can be accessed directly from the lobby. The adventure ropes course is for kids ages 5-12, which has a fee of $25 (half off for a second child) and grants you access all day long.

In the winter months, snowshoe rentals are available for use, sledding is ample, and the Tenaya Lodge ice skating rink (covered, no less) sits at the back of the property. We loved the huge fire pit adjacent.

An array of kids’ programming is available at Tenaya. While we prefer to stay together as a family during the day, I do recommend taking advantage of this service for a nice dinner out or a spa treatment. Kids’ programming varies by season, but rest assured: upon check-in, you’ll receive a full calendar of available activities and events. Most are included in your rate.

In addition to kids-only activities, Tenaya Lodge offers ice skating in winter, and archery, which my kids loved so much, they brought their new passion home with them. We bought bows (more ‘beginner’ than these from bowaddicted.com) and set up targets of our own.

Tenaya also has complimenary guided hikes led by naturalists. This is a program that runs concessionaire-wide throughout Yosemite National Park: lodge naturalists often supplement programs offered by park rangers. We had a great day hike led by a naturalist at Tenaya, ideal for kids of any age (parents come along, too). We even hunted for ants to sample…so glad we came up empty-handed! At night, we took a flashlight tour with guide and long-time Yosemite resident Mike, during which he kept us all entertained with stories of climbing, backpacking, and bear encounters. If your family is new to the outdoors or the California version of it, be sure to sign up for a nature tour.

Activities outside the property:

Tenaya is located right next to the Mariposa Grove (closed in winter) and the Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad, which is rich with history!

Hiking and outdoor play at Wawona Visitor Center is only 10-15 minutes away by car, and Badger Pass Ski Area is about 40 minutes. While in the Wawona area, be on alert for ticks during the summer months.

Of course, you’ll want to spend at least a day or more in Yosemite, exploring the valley floor. By car, it takes about an hour to reach the valley floor (due to windy roads and traffic). The concierge center at Tenaya Lodge can assist you with all programs, tickets, and tours you might want in Yosemite (a real time saver). They can also arrange for permits, horseback riding, and mountain biking.

Dining at Tenaya:

You’ll want to budget for some nice meals at Tenaya Lodge! In addition to room service, casual but upscale dining is available at Jackalope’s Bar and Grill for both lunch and dinner (the atmosphere here is very lively and warm). For a nice dinner out (with or without the kids), make a reservation at Embers. The interior of this small and intimate restaurant is plush and cozy, and the food is the best I’ve found in the region. You’ll want to linger over table-side caesar salad and leave time for dessert.

For more casual fare, opt for the poolide dining venue in summer, or the pizzeria located by the cottages, but be advised: this hot spot fires pizza in their own pizza oven and offers local IPA drafts. In short, you’ll find great fare at Tenaya, but you’ll need to budget for it.

Room rates:

Rates can start as low as $150 (estimate) depending on the season, and as stated, it’s not impossible to get last-minute reservations at Tenaya. In short, for the number of amenities and services on site, Tenaya Lodge is a great deal for families. Oh, and valet parking is always free.

Directions:

From Fresno, follow signs to Yosemite National Park, taking Highway 41. Tenaya Lodge is located just shy of the park boundary at the South Entrance.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my stay at Tenaya Lodge was complimentary, for the purpose of review. How better to get the scoop on best Yosemite lodging to recommend to families?

Hometown ski resort: Badger Pass Ski Area

January 9, 2015 By Amy Hagstrom

Ever wanted to downhill or nordic ski in Yosemite National Park? How about a morning of skiing followed by an afternoon of hiking on the valley floor? I spent a day at Badger Pass Ski Area, located in the center of Yosemite National Park, to see what it was like. What I found: wonderful ski culture, local enthusiasm, and lots of love for the outdoors. I guess that should come as no surprise!

Badger Pass boasts just 10 runs and four lifts (plus one rope tow). It features one lodge (two stories), a rental shop, and a nordic center. All the downhill runs funnel down to the same general base area by the lodge, and the entire feel is friendly, welcoming, and relaxed. This is hometown skiing at its best: just like at the tiny ski resort I grew up skiing in the Sierras, Badger Pass is all about the outdoor experience. Kids were skiing solo the day I visited, their parents content with the knowledge they really couldn’t get lost. Newbies were trying out the sport in first-timer lessons, and telemark skiers were almost as ample as downhill skiers.

The nordic center was bustling: with over 350 miles of cross-country trail in the park, most of which starts at Badger Pass, this is a hot sport! The nordic center staff will get you completely outfitted (downhill and snowboard rentals are available as well, in the adjacent downhill rental shop). Grab a trail map, and decide how far and fast you want to go.

Badger Pass offers one small terrain park, and the majority of the runs are intermediate, with a few black diamond runs. I was told tree skiing and backcountry skiing was abundant, given the correct snow conditions. In the lodge, visitors will find lots of lounge space, a nice big sun deck on both levels, and friendly food service where you can order standard ski fare: burgers, wraps, and a burrito bar. I recommend the homemade veggie burger and fries.

Lift ticket costs:

Downhill lift tickets are currently $48 for adults, $43 for youth, and $25 for kids (all day). XC ski rentals are available, as stated, as are Pulk sleds if you want to bring the younger kids along for the ride. Ski rental pricing.

Directions:

Badger Pass is easy to find from Highway 41 by the South Entrance to the park, or from the Valley Floor. From Wawona Road, take Glacier Point Road.

As I disclose whenever applicable, I experienced Badger Pass Ski Area as a guest of the resort, for the purpose of review. I hope my firsthand knowledge helps you plan a better trip!

Yosemite lodging pick: Yosemite Lodge at the Falls

April 28, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

If your family vacation will center around the valley floor area of Yosemite National Park, you can’t beat the location and convenience of Yosemite Lodge at the Falls. Located steps from Yosemite Village in the heart of the park, Yosemite Lodge is directly adjacent to Yosemite Falls (yes, you can see them out your door) and a shuttle stop away from everything else on the valley floor. Read Yosemite National Park touring tips and advice.

Yosemite National Park has plenty of lodging options, obviously, including Curry Village tent cabins, campsites, and upscale accommodations at historic Ahwahnee. Just outside the park, Tenaya Lodge is a good pick. All have their pros and cons, but for location and convenience, Yosemite Lodge can’t be beat. This is no secret, which makes reservations at Yosemite Lodge hard to come by. Here’s what you need to know:

the lodge takes reservations a year in advance
the 4 family rooms are hardest to come by (try for one of 27 family bunk rooms instead)
packages including breakfast or select tours are available seasonally
the site availability calendar is kept up-to-date: keep dates flexible to ensure a reservation

Yosemite Lodge is run by the park’s main concessionaire, Delaware North, who does a fantastic job offering park programming such as nature walks, ranger-led talks, and naturalist-run activities. I recommend the Night Prowl with a Delaware North naturalist for school-aged kids and teens (which departs directly from the lodge). Yosemite Lodge also offers valley floor tours.

Rooms:

Yosemite Lodge’s standard rooms feature two queen beds or one king, a separate bathroom area and private patio or balcony. There’s a small fridge in each room, and complementary wifi, but for coffee and other food preparation, you’ll have to venture out. Family rooms feature bunk beds, living space, and kitchen tables, which helps with space, but I definitely wish they also included kitchenettes for simple meal preparation.

Dining:

Everything families need in the dining department is right there at Yosemite Lodge: the Food Court is open for all meals, and serves counter-service style items a la carte or by platter or meal. I recommend a B&B package to save some cash on breakfasts. At the time of my visit, a standard adult breakfast cost approximately $10 and up.

In addition to the Food Court, the Mountain Room is open daily for dinner (even in the off-season) and offers upscale dining against a backdrop of mountain scenery thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows. I recommend budgeting for at least one relaxed dinner in Mountain House (and definitely get the pastry-wrapped salmon entree!).

Activities on-site:

In addition to ranger and naturalist-led programming held on-site, Yosemite Lodge offers an outdoor swimming pool in summer, bike rentals seasonally as weather permits, and ice-skating at nearby Curry Village. The Tours and Activities desk can help you with anything else you might want to do in the area.

A five-minute walk takes you to Little Yosemite Falls, and the trail head for Upper Yosemite Falls. A ten-minute walk takes you to Yosemite Village and the visitors center and museum. The park-wide shuttle services stops right at your door.

Rates:

Rates vary widely by season. Check rates here for up-to-date information.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my stay at Yosemite Lodge was hosted, for the purpose of review. I hope my knowledge of the property can help other families plan a perfect Yosemite vacation!

Uncrowded Yosemite: backpacking Yosemite National Park with kids

April 11, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

Would you believe that in July, in the center of Yosemite National Park, we enjoyed an entire day where we never saw another soul? It’s possible, provided you depart from the usual tourist destinations in the valley and explore Yosemite backcountry.

Backpacking Yosemite National Park with kids:

We chose to hike a portion of The John Muir Trail, a 211 mile path between Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley and Mt. Whitney in the California desert. While hardcore backpackers will hike the entire length in as little as 15 days, the Yosemite National Park portion of the John Muir Trail makes for a nice escape for backpackers with less time (or young kids). Backpackers hiking the John Muir trail in Yosemite traditionally start at the base of Vernal Fall in Yosemite National Park, and climb upward past Vernal and Nevada falls, Half Dome, and Little Yosemite Valley campground while making their way toward Tuolumne Meadows. For our John Muir Tail trip with young kids, we decided to tackle the John Muir Trail in reverse, which allowed for more downhill sections of trail and fewer crowds until the end of our journey.

Planning a Yosemite backcountry trip:

Backpacking the Yosemite National park backcountry with kids involves planning. Anyone planning to hike any portion of the John Muir Trail must obtain a Yosemite wilderness permit. Permits can be secured up to 168 days prior to the date desired, and for summer backpacking in Yosemite, reserving a permit the full 168 days out is recommended.

Upon arrival to Yosemite, you’ll need to check in at a Yosemite National Park Wilderness Center, where you’ll pick up your permit as well as bear canisters if you don’t have your own. Bear canisters must be used to store all food and scented items such as toothpaste, medications, and lotion, and can be rented (for only the price of a deposit). You’ll need to leave space in your packs for these.

If you plan to hike Half Dome, Half Dome permits are required, and they are separate from backcountry permits (though you can obtain both simultaneously). And if you plan to stay a night before or after your backpacking trek in Yosemite National Park (recommended), be sure to secure lodging early, as this is one of the most crowded national parks in America. Backpackers can also make use of free backpacker campgrounds the day before and after their backpacking trip.

On the John Muir Trail:

Day 1: Tuolumne Meadows to Sunrise Lake (3 miles)
In order to start our Yosemite backpacking trip in Tuolumne Meadows, we began at the Sunrise Trail Head at Tenaya Lake on Tioga Road. We followed the Sunrise Trail up steep switchbacks to connect with the Forsyth Trail near beautiful Sunrise Lake (a great first night camping option).

Day 2: Forsyth Trail to Clouds Rest and beyond (8 miles)
From Sunrise Lake, we continued to follow the Forsyth Trail to intersect with the Clouds Rest junction, leading 2 miles to arguably the best viewpoint in Yosemite National Park. From Clouds Rest, hikers can see the entire Yosemite Valley, including an unique view of Half Dome. Note: the pinnacle of Clouds Rest is fully exposed, with steep drop offs on each side. This is not a place for young children or anyone with vertigo or a fear of heights. Since I fall into that category (hiking with a small child), we viewed the Yosemite landscape from just .2 mile below the top, which also offers wonderful vistas.

Hikers can continue past Clouds Rest to intersect with the John Muir Trail several miles later, but as this section of trail is still exposed and at great heights, we opted to return the 2 miles back to the Forsyth Trail and join the John Muir Trail much earlier. This first section of John Muir winds through old growth forest alongside Sunrise Creek, and affords several nice camp sites adjacent to this water source. This section of the John Muir Trail is less traveled, but we were still surprised to find we didn’t encounter a single hiker all evening, night, or morning.

Day 3: Sunrise Creek to Little Yosemite Valley (5 miles)
Day 3 took us along the John Muir Trail from Sunrise Creek into Little Yosemite Valley. This backpackers’ haven offers numerous campsites along the Merced River (perfect for swimming in after a long day hiking!). Though lively, Little Yosemite is a fun oasis for hikers, offering conversation and companionship around the communal fire pit after days of relative isolation.

En route to Little Yosemite Valley, the John Muir Trail offers views of Half Dome, and the steady accent of hikers navigating its cable system to the top. Should you wish to ascend Half Dome yourself, the trail intersects with the final 2 miles of the Half Dome Trail mid-way through your hike down to Little Yosemite. Note: this is another steep, exposed trail. Though children can ascend it, be advised that very small kids may not be able to reach the cables, essential to a safe ascent. Our 13 and 11-year-olds could make the trek, but not our seven-year-old. For those not challenging Half Dome, it’s fun stop on John Muir Trail or Little Yosemite Valley and use binoculars to watch the climbers.

Day 4: Little Yosemite to Valley Floor (4.5 miles)
Our final day on the John Muir Trail led us down from Little Yosemite Valley to spectacular Nevada Fall, where the trail splits into the John Muir or the popular Mist Trail. We opted for the Mist Trail in order to glimpse the best views of nearby Vernal Fall, but the steps descending both falls are steep and can be slippery when wet. Be advised that the Mist Trail gets crowded with day hikers, and can be hard to navigate with overnight backpacks. The option of continuing on the John Muir Trail has its own set of disadvantages: it’s a longer route to the valley floor, and more exposed, providing little shade.

Safety on the John Muir Trail and in the Yosemite backcountry:

In addition to dizzying heights, bears, and crowds near the valley floor, backpackers need to be aware of the significant elevation gains to be experienced on the Yosemite section of the John Muir Trail. Elevations reach over 9,000 feet, necessitating plenty of water intake to prevent headaches and nausea. Other wildlife can pose a threat if hikers are not alert, including rattlesnakes — we encountered the biggest we’ve ever seen at Little Yosemite Valley.

Getting to and from Your Car:

Whether you hike the John Muir Trail from the valley floor up or from Tuolumne Meadows down, as we did, you’ll need transportation back to your car at the end of your trip. Yosemite National Park offers free shuttle service throughout the valley, but to travel to Tuolumne or vice versa, you’ll need to take Yarts, a paid shuttle service with stops in Yosemite Village and points throughout Tuolumne. Hikers cannot make reservations in advance for Yarts, and though we were told busses never fill up, that was not the case. Be sure to be at the stop before the allotted time and have cash in hand. One-way tickets were $8 at the time of our visit.

Lassen National Park

February 14, 2011 By Amy Hagstrom

We love Lassen National Park for its beautiful wilderness, fun geothermal parlor tricks, and low crowds. It can be done in a day, but if you spend a night or two, you won’t be sorry! Come in the summer as part of a family road trip when neighboring Crater Lake National Park and Yosemite National Park are packed with people, or visit in the fall or spring to catch wildflower blooms and foliage.

What not to miss: Stop at the new Kohm Yah-mah Visitor’s Center at the park’s Southwest entrance for a map, Junior Ranger packets for the kids, and maybe a bite to eat (the restaurant is great!). When we visit, we like to follow the park’s main driving tour, stopping at several of the geothermal wonders within hiking distance from the road. Our favorite: Bumpass Hell, a three mile loop trail featuring a boardwalk view of bubbling, gurgling mud pits that smell like rotten eggs! Stop again at Summit Lake for stunning views of Mt. Lassen and picnic facilities.

If you and your family aren’t up for the trek up Mt. Lassen itself, hike up a cinder cone instead! The trail head is located at Butte Lake Campground (from Highway 44 take the dirt road turnoff to Butte Lake Campground and follow the road for about 6 miles). The hike is over three miles round trip, but only the last 800 feet or so are uphill. (And we do mean straight up!) Kids love running down the soft sand (and the view from the lip of the crater!).

Entrance fee: $10 (one of the lowest in the national park system)

Dining: At the time of our visit, Summit Lake had a sandwich and salad counter service menu by their picnic areas. Otherwise, there’s a nice camp store for lunch supplies at the Manzanita Lake Campground.

Overnight options: Visitors can camp in one of the park’s beautiful high country campgrounds, but if you’re looking for something a bit more comfortable while still relaxed and fun, consider our favorite: St. Bernard Lodge on Highway 36 just three minutes from the park. Situated in the lower Lassen meadows, this lodge is perfect for families: kids (and St. Bernards…yes, the owners have several) have the run of the place, from the ponds and creeks outside to the cozy rec room. Breakfast is included!

Directions: The Southwest entrance is approximately 45 miles east of Red Bluff (I-5) on Highway 36, or 160 miles west of Reno, Nevada via 395 and Highway 36.